GAHC

Just bought some galv door tops from SP that came with a free fitting kit - they look fine although not fitted yet. I will screw in with a dob of RTV as Snagger mentions

this might help. Looked like a pig of a job but was quite straightforward. once the retaining collar is off the rest are pretty easy

I am half way through one that looks just like this one.... hardest bit is neatly popping the old spot welds and fabbing up 'partial' panels - ie , not the door pillar, footwell or vent repair strips. Tacking it up, welding it and smoothing it all off is the easy (and satisfying) bit. Spending the time getting all the fits and seams right is a ball ache too. Also I was given the same advice as above and am doing it on the chassis

Thanks for the reply. I have a 65A alternator fitted to the engine ready - one thing that baffles me is the two wire thing - surely I can just bridge the terminals and fit a 70/80 amp rated cable?? all the diagrams however show two? can only guess it was to supplement the original (lighter) wiring? Also looked at the Wipac units - wasn't planning on changing the actual lights but it seems to make sense - was thinking of wiring to take 16amps which should service a 100w bulb (if I ever wanted to) with a decent safety factor

Hi All, first post here. I have been building a 1965 2a for the past year and am not far off wiring. I was tempted by the autosparks looms but having rewired a narrowboat in the past (without any wiring instructions) I kinda figured a Landie with all books available and plenty of online resource should be a doddle...ahem, will prob live the regret that! So I have a few questions. The first relates to security - I can see that whatever is done the thing is gonna be easy to get into so I'm looking at making it a myth to start for the unknown! I have heard of the isolator on the coil/starter relay etc but am wondering if there is anything else that can be done? When overhauling the seat box I installed the passenger underseat battery tray with the idea of moving the battery and starter solenoid here (still with a hidden isolator) - any thoughts? Second question is one that relates to being a Landie newbie... I wont be using the truck as a daily driver but will use it for a bit of green laning and shooting (rabbiting and foxing at night) - as such I want decent headlights but don't want it plastered in spots. Can I just whack larger wattage bulbs in and switch the headlights off fused relays?? Final question relates to electrical upgrades - reading around people seem to mentioned better fuseboards, etc etc - what are the typical electrical upgrades people make when making custom looms?? Any reply's and advice greatly appreciated!