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Chubby M

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  1. Hi all, so a follow on from the extremely helpful thread and a "confirming my conclusion" type question: I think my hazard switch is faulty because: When I remove and bypass the switch and link Perm Supply to Left or Right indicators - they light per side, as expected (no flashing) When I remove and bypass the switch and link Perm Supply to Supply to Flasher - the stalk works per side, and I have left or right flashing indicators Therefore: Stalk is ok, loom and loom plug is ok and flasher unit is ok (its a new replacement). I then turn on the ignition and bypass the switch replacing the Perm feed for the Light switch supply - both tests repeated and all 100% correct. Then, when I connect the switch (its a new one - hours old, replacing the original faulty unit); Ignition off, hazards on - 100% fine, all flashing merrily away. Ignition on, hazards on - 100% fine Ignition on, hazard switch off, left indicator stalk selected - Not good: all lights flash (as if hazard switch on) ignition on, hazard switch off, right indicator stalk selected - Not good: all lights flash as above. So, I see no other route than the switch, frustrating as its new (not a blue box item). Is there anything else I may have missed? Daft question but is there more than one type of hazard switch? My truck is an 1986 110. The replacement switch can from AllMakes4x4, ref. YUF101490 On the plus side, While in the spaghetti of wiring I have got all the side, main and ancillary lights working... thats a massive step forward. Could finish the build this year (year 7 as my wife reminds me constantly).... Any suggestions gratefully received. Chubby
  2. @LandyManLuke I've been struggling for a day on the indicators so thought I'd try and find some help.... And here it is.... Huge thanks to you for taking the time to pen this article, I'm working through it now step my step... Again the value of a community, Chubby.
  3. Good afternoon gents, after a protracted break (DIY as penance for not getting the truck sorted - apparently 6 years is a long time...).... I've some news, which I thought may be of use for others. First off @monkie @simonb@western and @Hawklord My sincere thanks for your thoughts, insight etc. I've spent 48 hours following @monkie instructions and suggestions.... I've fixed it, the truck heats and fires!!!!! While not 100% sure which action sorted the issues the following are what I did to address apparent weak earth, loose connections etc.. 1. Disconnect and clean / re-fit all earth straps - battery to chassis, chassis to engine, chassis to gearbox / transfer box and added a chassis to bulkhead. 2. Disconnect and clean all positive feeds to positive bus on the starter motor. Some oil and debris here. 3. Re-fitted a shielded femail spade end to the starter solenoid (was damaged and loose). I think this traces to the white / red on terminal 4. 4. removed the ignition barrel mounting etc. and cleaned the rusted stearing column, to ensure the switch was well earthed. 5. replaced all fuses on the bulk head fuse and one inline fuse (white / black from memory while the dash was out). Of note also from a testing perspective, I bought a cheep test lamp (with a voltage LED) instead of the multimeter which I found so much easier for voltage tests. Delighted to note I have hot glow plugs etc... just the ancillary circuits to test and connect now. Thank you all.
  4. Great support @monkie I really do appreciate this. I spent yesterday plodding through the tests and loom checks as you mentioned, still no firm cause of my issues but I have a clear way forward for which I am very grateful. the power of community evident again here. Huge thanks. Chubby,
  5. Ok heres another one in case this jogs a view from anyone. The cassis number of the truck SALLDHMV7 BA xxxxxxxx This if I'm decoding it right suggests it started as a petrol 3.5ltr v8. The conversion to 2.5 turbo diesel was donkeys years ago so not expecting this to be an issue (no least as it used to run ok pre strip down) but.... if it triggers an idea please call it out..
  6. Just reconnected everything per the original wiring and tried the truck. It fires eventually, the glow plugs warming on crank only. Once running (position 2) I have power at the heater, wipers and radio (plus two purple constant lives). Struggling to get power to show up in the lighting circuits (dash lights etc.) and the indicators / hazard flashers (no noise from the relays either). @Hawklord thanks for the thread - I'll read and see what that brings.
  7. And the God of Looms strike back with vengeance...... I am smitted, a fallen man and clearly not worthy of owning a 110..... Received today a shiny new genuine LR column lock and switch (genuine lucas part fitted as standard) - a simple swap over and full of anticipation for the impending victory over the God of Looms.... Replacement shiny genuine LR part fitted, time for multimeter.... Positive feed connected to term. 5, all other wires left off the switch. Time to turn the key.... Bloody thing still does not read volts on terminal 2 (Brown / Red) in position 2 as per the spec, the manual and all collected wisdom.... Worse, the actual results are IDENTICAL to the above for the three switches I have (including no feed on position 1 for the ancillaries, lights etc.) and still no shagging feed to the glow plugs..... The only time I get a feed to the glow plug terminal is on cranking. I have no idea what to do now...... Is there any chance that the starter solenoid or some other cut off / relay is interfering...? I can only think now my only option is the 200/300TDI relay route, but that does not solve the underlying issue... All Help very much appreciated......
  8. @simonb Interesting suggestions, will try in the morning. I thought about the barrel lock, but position 3 cranking is fine.. it does possibly feel "loose" between position 0, 1 and 2 - but I may be making that up as its been such a pig of a few weeks with this.
  9. Hi - two images attached, wired up genuine part received last week and original PRC unit removed as thought faulty. Starter bus feed connected to term 5, glow plus (brown / Red) connected to term 2 etc. as diagrams above. No feed at term 2 until cranking (position 3) etc. as above. Hard to believe isn't it... it all looks right, but three units show consistently wrong feeds. Chubby.
  10. It is perplexing... three potentially ok PRC2735 and the wiring matches as required, but still no power at term 2 for the glow plugs despite a constant and strong 12.6v at term 5 direct form the starter bus. I've spent another four hours testing and looking for any fuses / relays that may be impacting - nothing... Anyone want to buy a 110 project.......
  11. @Hawklord Hi - yes the glow plugs were working previously - in so far as there was power at the brown / red lead, connected to the first glow plug on cyl 4. Since strip and rebuild, oddly there is now no power at the ign switch. @simonb Hi Simon, I'm still struggling with the LR part PRC2735, connected per diagram above from Monkey (5 July). With this switch the only option for the Brown and Brown / Red leads are terminals 5 and 2 as these are the only two at 10mm spade ends. I like the idea of the Lucas switch route, that though would be switch number four.... (3 PRC2735s) so far. @monkie Mine is currently the PRC2735, same as the image you shared.
  12. @monkie - Yes all cabling disconnected, only the positive feed on terminal 5. I've chased the voltage from positive battery post to starter positive bus and an unbroken feed cable to the switch (t5). No loss of voltage etc. I've also double checked all bulkhead fusing, no breaks. The only possible area of breakdown / weakness may be the rear loom to bulkhead loom where the pins needed cleaning on reassembly but I cannot see any connection here to the glow plug circuit. The switch is simply not doing what I / we expect. And its the same for all three (the original unit, the blue box replacement and the new LR part). I've even tried one of the units on the bench with a positive feed and home made "post" to turn it in case the barrel pillar in the lock mechanism was not turning correctly. Same results as above. @western Thanks for the lucas image. I was looking at these earlier on a US forum set of posts. Do I assume that ident 35288 could be a swap and details that there should be feed at terminal 2? Its the same config of terminals as the three switches I now own 🙂
  13. OK - thanks first to @Mo Murphy for the genuine LR part. now fitted and I've redone all my tests. Oddly - no change... the genuine part shows the same feed results as the original and the blue box part... still no feed at terminal 2 (glow plugs) until I get to position 3 (cranking)... I've tried to test every circuit over the last 48 hours... to say I lost is an understatement... I simply cannot understand how three switches all produce the same result, a result that is not what should be expected... Anyone else with any ideas please? I'm getting desperate now....... The truck used to start on the button, with the glow plugs, pre strip down 5 years ago. Huge thanks in advance... Chubby
  14. Thanks chaps for your input and help. I've remeasured everything, tried moving the white / orange etc.. and no changes. Still no volts at position 1 on terminal 3 or 4 and no volts on terminal 2 at position 2 (glow plugs). I think this means the switch if faulty - 4 days old and duff (and yes came in a blue box) - £23 wasted..... I'll get another and try that and come back to you all. Question - would there be value / benefit in fitting a relay based feed to the plugs like the 220tdi? pricy as I need a new switch as well, but, is there any value in doing so? Off to find a good PRC2735 now....
  15. Thanks all - spent a few hours going over this all again, I hope the below will help shed some light.... I am 100% certain all wires are in their original positions on the replacement switch - I was very careful here. The glow plugs used to work prior to strip down of the truck. I'm getting 14v at the battery - its only 4 months old. I have even had the entire fuse box out, checked and replaced fuses, cleaned terminals etc.... Ignition switch positions and voltages measured... not at all like the above... I am now very lost 😞 I don't appear to have any feed at position 1, my wire here is white and black (fine wire). There is a non used white / orange with a spade terminal in the loom - should this be on 1? I have no volts at position 2 at all. I thought this may be the switch hence changing it. Any ideas please? I've given up on the Haynes wiring diagrams too.....
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