SPendrey
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Posts posted by SPendrey
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Just to close my original question, I didn't find exactly what thread it is/was, but an M12 nyloc nut did the job just fine. A bit stiff, but it looked to be making its own thread quite nicely!
Now all I need to do is the other jobs on the list
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They are the top seat ( shock tower) retaining rings. They go on the top of the spring, pass through the spring top seat, then the bottom of the tower, then 4-nuts are fitted to it to hold it all together.
Les.
At the front though right? There seemed to be a rubber ring topping the rear springs, which I simply moved from the old springs to the new ones.
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Yeah, well I hope the replacements are better... "ProComp 9000" (or something like that). Anyway, not going so well, and need more advice! Have bought some spring compressors and sorted that bit. But, I managed to strip the thread on the top shock mounting. I think it is an M12 size, but what thread is it so I can re-tap?
Ian, to answer your question, no, he wasn't kind!
Both rear shocks failed
Both rear body mounts need replacing
One rear brake pipe corroded (but that's understandable, since they've been on a warning for years now!)
Boot floor and left side of boot floor area corroded (well, missing actually) too close to the body mount
So, I've started work on the 'easy' bit, only to find I stripped the bolt/nut.
One other thing... where do the rings in this picture go? Front or rear? I'm assuming the front!
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Thanks Matt... looks like they're £30 a set, so I'll buy some anyway for getting the new springs in above all else.
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Ah, that makes sense. It is the brake lines that worry me, but I'll keep an eye. Thanks :-)
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Hi... I need to replace the 1 year old Britpart shocks on the back of my Disco 300TDI as they have failed the/their MOT! So, I've decided to buy a Bearmach kit including springs etc. Problem is I'm concerned about the right way to remove the old springs. Having unbolted the retaining bar at the bottom, should I just give them a sideways (to the rear) knock and stand back? RAVE says use a spring compression tool, but I haven't got one. If the knock it and stand back works, I presume the replacements will be near impossible to install right?
Advice appreciated as always. Thanks,
Scott
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I'd guess your reverse light switch... however, you're hijacking the original thread. I've no idea how to help the "no rear lights" problem though, although do you mean the ones in the bumper as well as the higher level ones?
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Hello,
Now the MOT people have said "no!" to the amount of rust creeping around the boot floor I'm forced to replace it. The rubber/sponge mat that covered it is also totally rust-coloured and somewhat crumbling. So, having placed it in the bin, should I get another one, in which case where do I get it? Or, should I not bother, and just go with carpet and/or one of those boot 'liners'? I noted someone used plywood?
Any thoughts appreciated! Thanks,
Scott
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Urr, nope. Just wind down the driver's window, then do it all from the side of the car. I did this when I had to 'reprogram' a remote. I have a 300TDI which includes the lights you mentioned, so you're not alone.
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Yep, likewise. Mine was seized through steel/alu corrosion. Take a quick look around the forum, there are loads of people who have come across this issue before, and loads of pointers to get you going.
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Thanks Jim, that's exactly what I did in the end... except I reused the plastic plugs
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Remove the viscous fan and the plastic cowling first.
Niamh
Ah yes, the problem there is that the fan simply won't undo... I keep trying, but no joy. I believe Les even gave up on this one a few years back!!
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Having just replaced the water pump & P-gasket (thanks Les for the tech guide!) I'm now confused about two things...
Firstly, how are you supposed to reach the lower radiator hose, it is tucked up out the way for good reason I'm sure, but it is also a pig to get to!
Secondly, the manual says something like "fill the expansion tank until you see coolant at the radiator plug, the plug it. Next, fill the tank until you see coolant at the thermostat plug, then plug it". The problem is then the expansion tank is full to the brim, even after running in my case? So, I drained a bit back off (sucked out of the expansion tank) to get the right level. This doesn't make sense
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Gutted I couldn't make it today... but at least I think the Disco is back on the road again (so to speak... actually, it is in the garage!). Had a leaky P-gasket, and after much knuckle scraping I managed to pull it all apart and then put it all back together again (with new gaskets and water pump) only to find the heating had stopped working. I guessed that was an airlock and so followed the 'correct' way to top up the coolant and now it all seems good.
See you all soon, and nice looking motor Ross!
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Hi,
Tomorrow is the first Tuesday of the month, so a few of us will be meeting at the Gas Club, Swindon (at the entrance to Wickes) at 7:30pm for a beer and a chat about a trip out on Sunday.
Come along!
Scott
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I thought that was 'normal' for a 300TDI? Mine does it too!
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Thanks Retroanaconda - that does exactly what I've been looking for! Nice one!!
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Hello,
Well, today while driving to work I just saw the back end of a charger adapter (for my TomTom GPS) fly down the windscreen (demist) vent, followed by a few rattles and me cursing.
I wondered if it might fall 'through' if I switch to floor vents, but alas this was pure conjecture. So, other than stripping the whole dash out, what are my choices to recover that adapter and more importantly, prevent any possible damage to anything in there? Or, should I just consider the adapter as lost, buy a new one, and assume any new rattles are it bouncing around in the venting somewhere?!
Thanks in advance,
Scott
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Ian... you appear to have changed your mind about "nothing too extreme"! I'd say the need for a snorkel implies you're about to do extreme stuff!
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Could it be possible that the nudge bar goes under the valance at the front, then bolts on? Mine does.
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Oh yes, that makes sense! Thanks chaps.
All I've got to do now is wait until the next change! -
Hello,
Did an oil change last night in my new garage (clean floor etc. etc.). Placed a protective sheet down, a 3' square tray, and had a washing up bowl to collect the old oil, and still managed to get engine oil on the new floor
Now, I know it won't stay clean for ever, but does anyone have any tips on removing the oil filter from a 300TDI without it depositing oil all over the diff/front axle, your arm, and anywhere else it tends to run to. I think the oil on the floor now is actually running behind the front diff guard and onto the floor (very small amount, but visible).Thanks,
Scott
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A UK household electric plug fuse fits just right too!
Changing springs
in Discovery Forum
Posted
To be honest, no idea what they're like yet... but I bought the 1" lift spacers from JGS4x4 on eBay. Excellent company to buy from as they're always lightning quick and well priced. There is a definite height difference visible between the old and the new setup, enough for a larger tyre for sure. It won't be ready for the next offroad day, although if you want company I'll be ready!