SPendrey

Just to add a little balance to this - I have had what I consider great service from the AA! I suspect it comes down to the driver in some cases. I've had a wheel bearing failure where the driver tailgated me a couple of miles home (at slowish speed) so I could fix the issue myself. And more recently, the aux tensioner went on my 300TDi Disco; with no belt driving the coolant, power steering etc. the AA chap agreed to follow me home, again at slow speed, although only just over a mile. Finally, I failed to renew with them this year because the payment card had expired. When I realised and called them, they gave me 25% off! £80 per year is acceptable to me for recovery to any location of my choice.

So you used "14 to 16Nm"? I used 22Nm, which means I know what I'm doing this weekend, again!

OK, thanks all. Since I bought 3 timing cover gaskets, I might as well use the last one (yeah, that's right!) correcting the tension. Can I also suggest the Tech Archive article is updated? 🙂

I doubt there is a "correct" answer to this, as there are so many answers floating around the Internet, but here goes... Just did the timing belt on my (Disco) 300Tdi, and the tensioner was set to 22Nm as per the Tech Archive article here. Having done this, I noticed Rave suggests 14-16Nm using a type of torque wrench that I don't have (see pic), and I see @ 6mins 30secs on a video from Rimmer Bros their mechanic says 12Nm. Another video suggests 15Nm verbally, but reduces to 11Nm in the text/comments. Is there a consensus on what I should have done? That said, I'm probably not going to undo everything now!

Watching with interest! My Disco 1 seats are in OK condition, but it concerns me that my head is miles beyond any head restraint in the event of an accident (being 6'4" tall) . I'm hoping someone will come along and say "Volvo 850 seats are easy" because they are sooooo comfortable.

Works for me too, but reads... Webshop is currently closed - Even if we are open !* Phone lines are still open so you can ring - or E-Mail** Webshop will reopen Monday 29th

Have you considered training to make your arms work faster? Or one of those little "ball/knob thingys" so you can rotate the wheel quicker?

That 'seller' is the one I bought my winch, fitted with 11mm 'Dyneema' rope over 8 years ago. Still in great shape and going strong. Just to be clear, my last sentence refers to my winch and rope, not the condition of the seller, who I don't know!

Just for your information, I did mine a couple of years back. The inner sills on both sides were OK, so I sort of welded the box section 'inside'. What I mean is, I cut the outer sill away bar the top centimetre or so, and reduced the height of the inner sill to about 5cm, then used those surfaces to weld to. At the rear wheel arches I didn't close off the box section, instead I inserted plastic caps. This way I can (and did) spray the inside with rust preventing stuff.

I reckon that's connector C284 - for cruise control ECU.

You can do it alone, I did. Just open driver's window, then you can reach in. You may need the arms of an ape to reach both the bonnet switch and the ignition, but I've got those!

I suspect you're trying to solve the impossible, but... I would start by replacing the rocker cover gasket, and the breather down-pipe. Mine split at the join with the rocker cover, and then so did the replacement, so I went to silicone hoses and they've held. You may also find that's diesel around the injectors, most likely from the fuel return pipes. They're quick and easy to replace too. I'd wait for someone who knows stuff to comment on the larger leak near the exhaust manifold?!

That looks nice, but sounds a bit poor.

I may be the only person that found this interesting... certainly my family (in the car with me) couldn't have cared less. But, it tickled me that on the motorway I saw a Range Rover towing a Freelander. FYI, in case there are Health and Safety people watching, we were sat in a stationary queue.

While I appreciate the topic is "handpump"... I used one of these instead.