SPendrey

Can you not just add a couple of jate rings?

I've done this in the past, while waiting for new UJ's or a prop or whatever to arrive. No issues at all, just remember not to boot it too much!

Me too, but only for 15 years or so. Flux offer me a "classic car" policy, which includes the "must be locked in a garage after 10pm" clause which I've been using for years on my Disco (which is not classic!). However, if I'm not at home, it doesn't have to be locked in a garage ~:-|

I've used these in the past... https://www.4x4tyres.co.uk/

Best thing you can do is try it as is with AT tyres on, but I wouldn't bother with steel wheels etc., just use the alloys you've got, or pick up a second hand set.

Just a note... the term "antifreeze" is used a lot in this thread, but antifreeze is not good for squirting over your car/paintwork! I guess most people mean they're using a suitable winter screenwash?

Best to start with a continuity tester, checking each device (CB, each gauge etc.) to the +ve feed and then also the -ve on each. Given a number of seemingly unrelated devices are affected, I'd suspect a bad earth/gnd/-ve (whatever name you prefer) somewhere.

When you open the boot door, the panel you need to access is to your right (behind the dickie seat if fitted). Inside there, you should find the plug, if the previous owner hasn't mucked about with it!

That seems crazy to me. I'm referring to a rack this like which bolts into the spare wheel studs (albeit, mine is a Disco 1)... https://www.britpart.com/all-parts/da4119 I know people have hang-ups about Britpart, but mine has been fine for years. If your ebike is first on the rack, all its weight is near the mounting point anyway... I can't see this being an issue.

Pretty hard to be conclusive, without knowing the weights of all bikes etc. etc. However, I'd hitch the ebike nearest the spare wheel, then your wife's, followed by your grandson's, i.e. heaviest to lightest. Unsure which bike rack you've got too, but the one I use (attached to the spare wheel mount bolts) has a hole for a padlock to drop through, plus holes for bike locks to slip through. Of course, if someone is determined, they'll get the bikes regardless! It is also a 4-bike carrier, so carrying an ebike (probably 70% heavier than a standard bike?) means I'd just carry one bike less.

I can report the replacement is in, and the noise is gone... but what I can't explain is why, having put the new pump in, the left hand wheel now rubs on the radius arm?! Nothing in the geometry was changed, could it simply be there's more "power" pushing the steering box??

I've been chasing a rattling noise, replaced the water pump because there was play in the pulley. Replaced the belt tensioner because it was weeping some sort of fluid (?). The timing cover is less than a year old, but there is a rattle within the pulley/bearing. However, the company I bought it from has gone bust, so no news there. The power steering pump does make a clicking noise when turned in the direction it would operate, but no noise the other way. Is this normal? The attached video (with rather poor sound I'm afraid) should illustrate the noise, but it is more of a clicking than can be made out. I'm thinking this is the next item for replacement? 2019-06-28 19.27.16.mp4

I often do this Mo.

That's interesting, I bought the Cellular Dynamic shocks (the orange ones) for my Disco almost 3 years ago, and they're still going fine. I didn't buy them because they were orange, I bought them because they got good reviews. I didn't use the Britpart bushes that came with them, I used Allmakes stock rubber ones.

I have one, but I'm sceptical about its use... the instructions suggest you should connect it to the battery terminals (not +ve and the engine block). But I would have thought that doing so would deplete the battery pack into the battery very quickly. I can confirm it has helped start my Disco from a low battery, but I doubt it would from a dead battery.