SPendrey

Totally agree, and I did exactly what you are doing... raised a claim through PayPal to cover the postage as well as the item(s).

I found this weekend that my Bearmach boost pack (much like one of these, but not in a blue box) ruins DAB reception when plugged into the cigarette lighter to charge. I also learned that it loses 25% charge (judging by the 4 LEDs on it) over a period of about 3 months.

The other option, and the one I chose, is to remove the foam/material lining altogether, then colour the underlying hard surface. I removed the whole lining, pressure washed the foam off, let it dry for a couple of days, then used "Cuprinol Shades" to paint it whatever colour looked nice. Does use a whole 2.5l tin when rolled, might be better sprayed, but whatever.

I'd like to see one handle a green lane! Although, in truth, I hope they never do because I enjoy driving them.

That's the most daft thing Apple ever did, a single button mouse! Re. the music format, the head unit supports MP3, WMA or AAC. The good news, is MP4 uses the AAC codec so should work so long as the card is readable.

I chased a "tick" for a while, replaced the vacuum pump (had a spare from another vehicle anyway). Checked tappets etc. etc. Mine was the head gasket at the rearmost cylinder venting to atmosphere. Just stick you hand back there and you'll feel it puffing if that's the fault.

There is only one reason for getting DAB... Planet Rock! On the reception side of things, I too get a great signal almost everywhere I go. Patchy in mid-Wales, and also on Salisbury Plain. Elsewhere though, it's excellent.

I've been running a cheap 'Mutant' unit (so cheap it says "tunning" when switching stations!). Anyway... I use a magnetic external aerial, which I guess wouldn't suit a Defender? This means I can pop it off the roof while in wooded areas.

When you say "is this a bleeding issue", is the emphasis on "bleeding"? It is a bleeding issue, and something that needs to be fixed! :-)

Totally agree. Seems to be a common trend at the moment. The Volvo XC90 is gorgeous from the front, but hideously ugly and boring from the back. I too followed a D5 recently, and it took me a while to realise what it was. The lines are all wrong at the back.

Well, while in the MOT centre today the rear was lifted and the wheels/prop spin just right! Sod's law though, a rear brake light bulb decided it wasn't playing ball. Fixed on the stop for another year's entertainment.

I wondered about a different pressure being applied to the diff pinion through the new flange and nut. I'll have another check later in the week after a couple of days' driving. Perhaps it just needs a little loosening up ~:-)

While attaching the new prop, with one wheel raised, I noted the rotation was significantly stiffer than before... I used to be able to rotate the wheel by twisting the prop, but on this occasion I had to use the handbrake drum to rotate it. Test drive seems OK though, with far fewer "clacks" between gear shifts as the props and diffs all take up the slack. Hopefully, that's the end (for now) of leaks at the rear of the car, now to find the engine oil or possibly diesel one at the front!

Found a bit of time this weekend, and got to the bottom of this - although I'm yet to test drive! Cut a small slot in the bolt stuck in the centre pin, then could unscrew it. Then used about 10 (maybe more?) M8 bolts and nuts to ease the centre out. The initial 'crack' to get it moving needed a 10.9 tensile bolt. The thread kept going on all the others. Anyway, once that bit was done the rest came along OK. All back together now, with a new seal, 4-bolt flange and a 200TDi prop. Hoping it'll drive OK in a short while?!

Plugged your numbers in here and although at the top end of the welder's capability, it would seem possible. Its a PITA getting the inside edges done, but get as much on both sides as you can.