Remington Rolling Block

Hello Gazzar, I think your right mate. Had mine down to nuts and bolts this morning, checked all the unions, connections and pipe flairs, all the calliper flairs didn't look right when I had my glasses on, just didn't look crushed enough,,, so thinking about the Imp / Met I changed all the unions and re flaired the pipes, did them all male and female,,,,, and I got brakes again. I had a dig in my junk box and found one of the old callipers and tried a plug thread gauge it WAS 3/8 unf. I checked the new callipers they are 10mm. So im none the wiser but I am mobile and the dogs are cock'a'hoop as they can get after the rabbits again. Tom

Well I cant say for sure but if the diaphragm was leaking it just wouldn't put any pressure on the master cylinder,,,,, so cant see that would affect bleeding or the brakes working other than giving a heavy pedal ,, im no expert but the servo is there to take out the leg work,,,,,,, I have in the past driven mine with the vacuum pipe not fitted,,, just a heavy pedal,,,, something I want to check is the operating bar from servo to cylinder,,,,, is it seated properly or maybe need adjusting ,,, don't know on this one till I look..... however I wouldn't worry about the servo just yet. Tell ya what when we got these motor sorted we will have to kill a bottle of Jack Daniels or 2 lol lol

Don't give up mate,,,,, its better than a pinny and the marigolds, , bit off topic but if you need help in the front Viagra is wonderful lol take my word for it lol. ok back to work. Tomorrow im gona pull mine apart again and start from the ground up,,,,,, if it makes you feel any better ive got through 4 litrs of fluid so far and the body count is rising, one thing im going to have a close look at is the pipe flairs, something I just took for granted.. Ill keep you posted. Tom

Hello Stephen,,, well not much, changed a couple of unions the bleed the be jazus out of the lot,,,,, seemed to work but just been out to lock up and the air is back,,, im bad to square one,,,, but tomorrow is another BLEEDING day lol lol Tom

Just been out to mine anddddddd the pedals gone,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, looks like tomorrow is tare it down and start again,,,,, Marc! pass the matches

Well, all the unions I have are 3/8 unf, and take a 7/16 spanner,, Having said the I changed the two rouge unions for 3/8,,,,,,,, it bleed out perfect brakes now are better than they have ever been,,,,, ive lots of unf threads around the motor, only metric ive found are on the engine

Cheers Stephen ill give that a try,,, Just found what maybe part of my problem. At sometime someone has replace the rear pipes whit copper,,,,,,,, and use 3/8 ENOTS fittings not 3/8 UNF,,, lets hope it hasn't bu**ered the calliper threads

Hello Stephen. I see where your coming from with the 1/2 pedal, worth a try, as for over pressuring im not so sure, I bleed mine with a vacuum set up the first couple of times. Now this gravity thing, tell us more, I take it you have to do the same on all four wheels,,,,,,, lol how long does it take Tom

Same here Marc,,, just cant get them to bleed properly , and still no rear brakes, im now down to changing all the pipes and moving to braided hoses,,, if the rain ever stops... A quick edit just in case it helps. All calliper's were new 8 months ago, pistols free and bleed ports clear New master cylinder fitted New bias valve fitted. New rear solid pipes fitted. New valve to TEE fitted. End result fronts work rears don't. When bleeding fluid starts to run as expected then slows and stops, no amount of vacuum or pressure makes any difference Next it braided hoses and front pipes

Hi Marc. Hows the brakes going. Changed the bias valve on mine today, was an S O B to get the old one out, best way I found was to remove the air filter, move the expansion tank and pull the res'er off the master cylinder and undo the two pipes that go to the valve,, Then crack the threads on the lower pipes from under the car, the rest you can each from on top,, now fitting the new one was easy, fit the m/c pipes first finger tight, now lower the valve into position and locate on its mounting stud now fit the upper pipes again finger tight, now bolt up the locating stud/nut now you can tighten the pipe unions,,,,,,,,,,, two and a half hours to get the old one off 45 mins to fit the new one... didn't get time to bleed so cant say if it fixed my prob,,,, ill post more tomorrow. Tom

Marc, I just got a reply from Mike At Britannica Restos..... It seems the bias valves are famous for sticking and drawing air, ill keep you posted as ive asked Mike if I need one or if they are serviceable Tom

Hi Marc, Thanks for the link matey, yep I joint this forum,,, Ok little trick I use when refitting S O Bs is to put the unions in finger tight BEFORE I bolt to the bulkhead, helps a lot if you can wiggle the part and the pipes, then lock up once bolted firm. Tom G