Geojake
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Posts posted by Geojake
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Yeah I saw Mike’s video. He says 2.6mm or something, whereas the spacer is 4 or 5mm so too much. Mine is on without any (also I bought a Delphi not a Blue box so doesn’t come with) as I have the spacer already built into the block as above. Let’s see how long it lasts, if it goes in 6 months then I know why!
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2 hours ago, vulcan bomber said:
The spacer routine going around is a Fad imho, you'll alwas see an improvement when your fitting one with a new pump. to fit yours, rotate the engine so the cam lobe operating the pump is out the way.
Thanks for that @vulcan bomber, it went in. Although didn’t solve the running issues! 🙈🙈 the diagnosis continues…
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Fyi as far as I can tell, I have the factory spacer built into the block.
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I’m changing my lift pump on a disco 200tdi engine.
The old one has a bent arm. Does this mean that I need to have a spacer for the new one, to prevent this from happening? When trial fitting, it doesn’t sit flush on the block.
Photos below.
Cheers
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On 7/31/2023 at 10:49 AM, Stellaghost said:
Hi Jake
Did you get the pump I posted
Regards Stephen
Hi Stephen,
Yes, I sent you a DM on 22nd when it arrived. Thank you!!
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On 7/29/2023 at 8:44 PM, stevebus said:
If you want to run down to folkestone mate you can have one, I've got a couple here you can have straight off an engine
Sorry mate only just saw this. Managed to figure it was m14 with trial and error! Cheers anyway
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1 hour ago, bishbosh said:
Angle grinder threads are M14 so you could experiment?
That’s a great idea
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Can’t find it in the workshop manual or online. It’s 22mm so maybe M14? Does anyone know for sure. Thanks
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51 minutes ago, hurbie said:
was it working before you installed the slick-shift ? , or did you put the remote shifter and slickshift in at the same time ?
if the later , i would get rid off the slickshifter and make sure that all works as it should be in stock form .
Yeah I did them both at the same time. I stripped everything down, degreased it till it was spotless and then re grease everything. I even rebuild the reverse plunger- the lot. I can’t see what the problem can be 🤔
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1 hour ago, Mo Murphy said:
What's difficult about it ? Will it not go into gear or will the lever not go over far enough ?
I suspect you need to adjust your bias to allow the lever to go further over to the left.
HTH
Mo
Hi Mo, it goes left just fine. Don’t forget reverse is next to 1st on LT77, and I can select that. Just can’t seem to find 1st/2nd. Very bizarre
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Having successfully converting the top remote housing of my Disco LT77 to a Defender one, and installing a slickshift, I’m now struggling to find 1st and 2nd gear.
Reverse, 3rd, 4th, 5th are all a dream. I’m wondering if I have my bias springs adjusted incorrectly. Does anyone know what this problem could be? Am I missing something obvious? I doubt it is gearbox selector issues as it was selecting fine beforehand.
Cheers
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Okay so just an update on this. If you can’t turn it by hand like everybody says, something is very wrong!
The previous solenoid was cross threaded, hence the new one being tight.
So I am in need of a new pump.
I’ve posted in the wanted page to see if anyone on here has one.
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13 hours ago, smallfry said:
Thread is very fine and easy to cross thread. They will normally screw in with fingers.
Have you got the O ring on it ?
The old one was tight coming off too. Only finger loose at last 2 threads or so. I think maybe they’ve been cross threaded before.
I have the O ring. Will take off tomorrow and have a rethink. Lost patience with it so left it for a day!
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2 hours ago, western said:
there should be a small O ring seal on bottom of the shutoff soleniod body that fits in the FIP recess, a 24mm slimmed down ja open end spanner will tighten it, it only needs to be nipped spanner tight.
Hi western,
So everyone keeps telling me- just a nip, but I assume my threads on the pump are shot because every turn has been tight from the beginning. I’ve never suffered so much! I made the spanner and it has got me this far.
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3 hours ago, Junglie said:
No, tomorrow is out for me as I'm working late, sorry.
I can do Tuesday I think if you're still stuck by then... What do you actually need - a bit of applied brute force and ignorance, a spare pair of hands or expertise? I can do the first, the latter not so much as I've never been under the bonnet of a TDi.
Okay mate not to worry. If I’m still stuck by Tuesday I’ll let you know! Probably, I need someone who has also suffered the same problems, however brute force and ignorance has always worked for me!
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@Junglie thanks a bunch mate. Would tomorrow be better for you? I’m unavailable this evening
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Maybe a long shot- is anyone close by in the Langley/Maidstone area willing to help me tighten up this damn solenoid? I’ve replaced it and I cannot get it to turn anymore and it is leaking.
I really don’t want to have to take the pump out.
Happy to pay for anyone’s time. Just really need the help!
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31 minutes ago, Hazza said:
Hi there, this looks great! I don't suppose you have any photos of how this connected up inside the body of the lock? Thanks!
I found these from the time. Drilled a small hole in the lock pin and then attached a pole with a buttoned end on.
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Okay. So I’ve ordered a lt77 defender top, and will need to buy the selector yoke adapter to see if it’s a good option. Any noticeable differences between the Ashcroft and the Syncro adapters? Obviously will need slight modification for lt77 rather than r380.
https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/selector-rail-adapter-yolk/
vs
https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product/selector-shaft-adapter-quadrant/
Cheers
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I’m not with the car at the minute, but some pics I have are attached. You can see how my gearstick is at present, and hopefully you can see the (Range Rover?) engine mounts in position.
From what I’ve read, these mounts look correct for the 200tdi position? Can anyone confirm.
If it is possible with an adapter, this would be something of interest.
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Thanks Dave, that makes sense. I’ll have to dig out the dimensions between propshafts to check the xfer box is in standard position. There is no evidence lt230 brackets have been moved bit I’ll need to check it all first to have a proper understanding.
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In my 90, I have a disco engine and disco short stick LT77 (so the best lever comes out through the middle seat).
I’m wanting to refurb the gearbox, so thinking I may as well change it for a defender LT77 long stick instead, so the gear levers are on the in the standard position.
Will this affect the position of the transfer box, will I have to change mounting positions, etc? May seem like a stupid question, but basically can I just directly replace it without having to make any major changes to the chassis.Thanks
J
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Hammer out the old tank!! For some reason, getting a new one in is easier than getting the old one out, from my experience. I managed to squeeze the new one in with a bit of crowbarring.
Jake
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On 9/17/2021 at 5:16 AM, 92a said:
I did this last week whilst changing my clutch... What a difference- no leaks!!!! I also finally got round to changing my gearbox mounts to Glencoyne ones and the vibration has halved. Well worth the effort.
Lift pump questions
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Did you make this yourself or buy it Mike?