Filbee

Yes, that's the Mudstuff double-din centre console. Pretty straightforward to fit, but just make sure you don't overtighten the screws for the switch retainer in the rear of the console. They snap quite easily if you're not careful!

I remember seeing a few Landrovers in and around a corrugated iron shed/barn just outside the entrance to the main Kingspan site at Shobdon a few years back. It didn't strike me as being a business set up though. Maybe it is?? 🤔

No one used decent LR specialists in my neck of the woods?

The calipers are OEM AP/Lockheed calipers fitted with stainless pistons, which are the same diameter as the OEM calipers I took off. The brakes are working fine now, they just don't feel as firm as they once did. I guess that could be down to the fact that at least 4 of the pistons in the original calipers were rusty and seized or partially seized 🤔

Apologies if this has been asked before. I did search but drew a blank... Has anyone got any recommendations for specialists in Shropshire/Herefordshire/Powys please? I live in right in the bottom SW corner of Shropshire and I would like to find a knowledgeable and trustworthy specialist who lives and breathes Defenders. I love doing my own spannering but I'm a bit short on spare time at the moment to put a new clutch and flywheel in... Thanks in advance!

I'm pretty sure it's a DMH-A340DAB.

I'd say it's worth taking the dash apart to see if the connector is there for a radio install. If it is I would just get a cheap head unit that you can use to connect your phone to (and some speakers of course!) My 110 is a basic ex-utility hard top but even that had an OEM Landrover branded radio cassette. I've since replaced it with this It's a basic "mechless" Pioneer DAB unit that cost less than £200 which I've paired with some 2-way 4" speakers in the original under-dash holes. It allows me to listen to DAB radio, play music though phone/iPod, and show the image from the reversing camera I fitted. It also allows screen mirroring with my phone so I can see/hear the sat nav function on my phone through the radio.

Thanks for the reply but no, they each have one bleed nipple, at the top of each caliper. I've never seen a caliper with 3 bleed nipples. I'm glad mine only have the usual one per corner!

Time for an update a week after fitting my calipers... I've not done many miles but the slight weep of fluid found under the calipers seems to have stopped, which is a relief, and whilst the pedal still doesn't feel as firm as it once did, and travels further, it doesn't creep down to the stop any more if you keep pushing it, and she does pull up smartly when required. I've got some braided hoses to fit at some point so will report back again once fitted as to whether they have firmed up the pedal feel at all

Thanks Mo. On the basis that she does come to a stop and it seems to be more of a pedal travel/ feel issue, I'm happy enough to drive around for a week and see how it goes👍

Your issue sounds exactly the same as mine. I can rule out squishy pad backing material though - my Ferodo pads don't have any...

Thanks all for keeping the suggestions coming 👍 I've done another round of bleeding, and there were no bubbles coming out at all. I decided to just go for a chug round the field to what happened. She will stop with a good shove of the pedal, enough to lock at least one of the wheels (on grass!) but the pedal travel is much longer than it was before I changed the calipers and it feels a bit soft. When I came out this morning after having the pedal wedged down over night there was a bit of fluid on the very bottom of both front calipers. Just a smear, not a drip. I took the pads out again and there's no evidence that it's come from the piston seals. I guess I'll just drive around steadily for a bit and see if things get any worse!

I've had some good results with 2-part epoxy mastic paint brushes or rolled direct to clean (previously rusty) metal, with a rattle can top coat to stop it chalking up

Looking good! Those bits have come up really clean 👌

Vacuum assist is working fine. I think I'd be pretty unlucky to have two duff master cylinders. The problem is exactly the same after fitting a brand new Lucas m/c. It's not impossible, but surely it's pretty unlikely? Which leaves potentially an airlock. I primed the new m/c before fitting it to minimise the chances of that happening and used a pressure bleeder on my second attempt, and it seemed to bleed really well. I'll have one more go today and flush another litre of brake fluid through.

I primed the master by filling the reservoir and making sure fluid was coming out of all three ports. And I've bled all four wheels more than once 👍

Yes, bleed nipples at the top! I gave the servo a good clean before refitting the master cylinder and it all looked in very good shape. Out of curiosity, if the servo was damaged, would that make the pedal sink to the floor? I always thought a knackered servo had the opposite effect and made the pedal much harder to push.

I'm a bit stumped at the moment... I've just fitted some brand new AP front calipers with stainless pistons to my 2006 Td5, non-ABS 110, as the pistons in the original calipers had rusted and partially seized. I got them fitted with no issues, popped in some new pads and got the better half to work the brake pedal while I bled them. I got a good bleed, all the air bubbles soon disappeared and the pedal felt quite firm. That is, until I tried driving it. Once vacuum was working the servo, the pedal just steadily sunk lower and lower... I've checked all the pipe unions, bleed nipples, pulled the pads back out to check there are no leaks from the piston seals, and run my hands around the master cylinder and calipers. It all appears dry and fluid-tight. The fluid level in the reservoir didn't seem to drop at all. Having read a few posts on here about sinking brake pedals, the most logical culprit seemed to be a goosed master cylinder. I thought maybe the seals had given up after the brake bleeding exercise. I've now fitted a NOS Lucas master cylinder, and it's made no difference 😟 I filled up the reservoir with fresh fluid and made sure it was coming out of all three ports before I fitted it, and then pressure bled the system with a Gunson pressure bleeder (the one you hook up to a spare tyre), and again, it all seemed to bleed nicely. With the engine off, the pedal seemed fairly firm, but once it was running, down it went. I checked for leaks again and found none. The fluid level is steady. I'm all out of ideas now, so I wondered if anyone has any suggestions as to what I do next? For now, I've left it with a piece of timber jammed between the seatbox and brake pedal to give any air bubbles a chance to work back up to the master cylinder.

Thanks for the replies all. I had to refit the original hoses and hard lines in the end anyway... For whatever reason, both ends of the stainless hoses have male fittings, whereas on my Defender (2006 Td5), the original hose has female fittings on both ends! I was on a hiding to nothing right from the start 🤦 I'll be sending these ones back and getting some custom ones made by Venhill with a banjo fitting for the caliper I reckon. Venhill have been spot on with custom lines for my bikes over the years.

Hose fits directly with no issues

Apologies if this has been covered already. I did search and found nothing but I'm halfway through fitting my new front calipers... I've got some nice Hel braided lines to go on at the same time. They have male fittings on each end. They are the "standard length" ones as my truck is on standard suspension. My question is: Can I just run these lines direct to the caliper and ditch the short run of hard pipe between the original flexi hose and the caliper? The Hel lines have the correct fittings to allow me to do this. I just wasn't sure if they are long enough. The Hel lines are exactly the same length as the standard ones.

Looks like nice drop of scrumpy there Mick 😁 Definitely a good job you changed it!

I thought about doing it that way, but the cheapest I could find genuine AP calipers was about £145 each. Decent stainless pistons seem to be about £100. Total cost would be about £390, plus my time to swap the pistons. My shiny new AP calipers cost £336 delivered with the stainless pistons already fitted 👍

Thank you, good advice! As long as I can get the bolts and brake pipes off, I think I've got it covered 😊

I've finished weighing up the options now. I looked at costs for stainless pistons, genuine seals, availability of the internal o-rings and the time it would take me to refurb my current calipers. And the outcome was this: One pair of shiny AP calipers, already fitted with stainless steel pistons for the princely sum of £336 including VAT and delivery courtesy of LOF Clutches (and brakes!). I was expecting them to be refurbished but they look brand spanking new. I'm looking forward to fitting them and hopefully only having my truck off the road for a day. Having said that, I'm a realist and half expecting something to snap or be rusted into place just to knacker my plans but I'll deal with that as and when it happens 😁