KenyaDefense

Is there a solid/reputable/tested way to adjust/alter the switch to a more permanently usable solution?

Switch. Jumped brown blue while sidelights are on and voila! Lights work in every way, high, low, flash... Now for scouring for the part...

So i jumped the blue and red wires and still nothing. Inspected the switched and all is well.

intermittently started losing high beams occasionally a month or so ago. Drove to pick up something at dark the other night and main lights worked fine. When I fired up to head home no headlights at all (I had to drive home some few hundred km with just side and indicator lights, but totally normal in Kenya!). When I put on the indicator (side) lights, all is well and dash lights come on as normal. But when I go to headlights there is nothing and the dash lights go off like they are all turned off again. The flash continues to work, but high beams do not work in headlights mode. I took the headlight switch off and checked the connections and all seemed okay, no melted plastic or anything. Is there a way to test the switch? Is there another common suspect? Thanks in advance...

Sorry to inform, but all fuel is good. It is the clutch plate dying of all things! A friend came to give second opinion and knew immediately...

So the pin is pretty free now, but problem is not resolved. Still grossly underfueling, both on and off turbo. It shouldn't be the injectors because it wouldn't idle worth a ____ if even one was faulty. Leads me to believe it is fuel delivery issue from the FIP. Some are saying turbo hoses and IC, but would off turbo also be affected??

I question fuel delivery on and off boost. The boost diaphragm would only reasonably affect on-boost, right? But if the pin inside the FIP were slightly sticking, wouldn't that affect underfueling across the board?

Boost diaphragm meaning the diaphragm inside the FIP? I have triple checked it, and even had my teenage son with better eyesight than me have a long gander, nothing.

Got that already checked, thanks

Will go after clearances tomorrow when the sun comes up... Will try the stop solenoid test first.

I know this is an old thread, and sorry to bring it back from the dead, but been trying to resolve underfueling for a few days now. I've checked fuel through the lift pump, the filter, and into the FIP. When I popped open the FIP, the pin basically "pops" out when I pushed the throttle lever wide and then "pops" back in with a screwdriver. I assume this to be a potential problem if it is not moving with throttle correctly.

BTW, I checked all fuel lines today, no pinches or anything abnormal. Is there any servicing that can be done on the FIP prior to removal that might indicate low fuel passage?

Running without the plunger would indicate that perhaps the stop solenoid is defective? Is it common for the stop plunger to stick thereby restricting flow??

TDC, then checked that pin rests easily in plug/hole/whatever name is. I get no smoke except at startup. No smoke seems to indicate lack of fuel at combustion. I checked fuel flow to the filter, very good. Then checked flow at the inlet to the FIP, also very good. So I was thinking there must be a problem with delivery from FIP to injectors. What say ye?

Stop solenoid o-ring is good. Timing is good. As fuel flow is good to the FIP, should I pop off the injectors one at a time and test the spray pattern?

Where is the stop solenoid? The serpentine belt was done a few months back. How do you check FIP timing?

Are there internals to the FIP that need servicing? I am somewhat familiar with the adjustments that can be made but I am wondering if there is any type of filter internally or other serviceable items.

So I tested the fuel at the inlet to the FIP and found good flow. So fuel lift pump and filter are okay. No FIP rattle. Starting to think the FIP has been slowly dying. I turned the main adjuster in 1/4 turn, the star gear 1/4 turn, and the low torx adjuster under the round cap 1 turn. Some improvement now once turbo kicks in, but can hardly get going from a standstill (off turbo).

Soaked the pin and internals, cleaned, then reassembled. Removed fuel filter, drained and shook it like crazy to get everything possible out, reinstalled and bled. Seems like a bit more power but not much. I can drive it but it crawls up low hills. A month or so ago I passed everyone.

Took the FIP lid off to gander inside. I think the pin might be hanging. I can only make the pin come out at full throttle (by hand manipulation of throttle assembly) and then when I push it back in with a screwdriver it hangs and then pops back in. Any thoughts?

Turbo hose and intercooler hose are "like new." Going to get a new fuel filter and see if there is a problem with this one...

I have had the truck for about 20 months. NO temp ever registered and I was checking to see if the thermostat had stuck open or if the gauge was faulty or the sending unit. Have never topped up coolant and never had overheating. Since adding the thermostat temp is always at about 1/4 to 1/3 once warmed. People here in Africa often run no thermostat in petrol engines due to the never ending heat. When you say manifold gasket, you mean exhaust manifold? I'll go ahead and order one and tackle it just to be sure. I have to order parts and wait 24 hours for delivery because I have no parts suppliers within about 10 hours drive... If I run into dead ends I will continue toward the compression and timing questions.

Checking turbo hose and inter cooler hose this morning

No EGR, Bosch FIP. Fuel filter also changed.

Throttle cable is good Turbo outlet hose is good Small hose from FIP to turbo is good