GeorgetheLandy

Hello all, Here is a little something unique and interesting that you may not see every day. I was told that these were Military Lift rings fitted to the rear of a Land Rover Series. The first question is, is that true or do they belong to something else? The second question is, if they are as described, whereabouts on the rear do they attach? I got them from a friend of mine in the UK who had them lying around and he said I could have them. I thought they’d make great recovery points but then became curious about his description. Either way, they are well made and look like they might fit on the rear bumper and straddle one of the brackets welded to the back of it that fasten the body to the bumper, but would love to know more about them and where precisely they’d go. If anyone has photos of them in situation that would be even better. Hope you’re all well and stay safe. G

Dear All, I have started the laborious process of a full lubricant and fluid change on the Land Rover Series 2A 109 I have been restoring and mostly everything is clear and straight forward. For the coolant I used a mix of anti-freeze and distilled water. For the engine oil I used Castro GTX 20w50. I have some 85 EP90 for the differentials, gearbox and transfer case. I was told and it looks like the manual says I can use the 85 EP90 for the swivel housing too, though speaking with my Dad back in Blighty he said I could use grease instead as the seals leak oil. Is this true and if so what type of grease is best to use? Thanks again and hope you are all staying well. G

Thanks, checking plugs today. The timing seems okay but it may also be worth checking as It’s not been checked since I have it. G

Thanks Steve, I’m fitting new plugs today, it has new leads so that rules those out. Don’t think it’s flooding so will check the condenser too. Thanks G

Hello again to all and thanks again to everyone’s help so far. Today’s question is about my petrol pump, or maybe not depending on replies and deductions. My 1964 Series IIA has so far and normally started on the first or second depression unless she’s sat for a while and then I use the cold start and a few more attempts. Lately though she only seems to be starting on maybe one or two of the cylinders and is very weak at the start and then when the othe cylinders kick in she runs smoothly. Does anyone know why this is? Is it the fuel pump not supplying enough fuel or is it one or more of the spark plugs not working? Also at the moment the exhaust is half off due to the dodgy welders sawing it in two to access welding areas, (don’t ask and yes I was not happy and words colourful in nature were used strategically). So I wondered if that might effect firing of the cylinders. I will do my best to read up and diagnose what’s wrong but any thoughts welcome as always and thanks for letting me part of this great community. Stay safe and look forward to hearing from you all. Sincerely G

Thanks for the advice. I may end up trying to replace the earth wire too, to eliminate that variable. They are as I mentioned in my reply to Steve B working now. It’s the most bizarre thing. I think taking it out and running around the neighbourhood may have either freed up the brake switch or possibly unstuck a fused wire. I am baffled for sure but the flip side of that is at least they are working as they should be. As I mentioned in my reply to Steve, I may at some point but a new harness when I can save enough cash. It could do with one as a lot of the wiring seems very brittle and old. I am so thankful that I can now get out in her and enjoy the experience of owning one. She’s a keeper and now I get to teach my son how to drive a proper car… Take care and many thanks G

Yes, the work lamp was a treasure. Thanks G

Hello Steve, So yes, I did disconnect the wires to the hydraulic switch and the lights turned off. So I traced it to being something wrong with the switch. However, my historic plates came a week ago and I fitted them and managed to take her out for a run. I drove about two miles around the back streets of my neighbourhood and when I returned the brake lights were working as they should. I can only assume that the switch must have stuck in the on position and this is what was causing them to stay on when I turned on the head lights. Now when I turn on the head lights they come on alone as they should just as the side lights do when I turn the switch all the way. At some point I think I may treat her to a brand new wiring harness and eliminate all of the wonkiness…. I do have a new hydraulic switch but for now the issue seemed to resolve itself. I am not an electrician and only have limited ability in this field but did invest in a food voltage meter and will try to do some fault finding. You may be right that the wires somewhere may have melted or fused together, so will look for that and try to get to the bottom of it. I guess this comes with the territory hey…For now at least I can get out in her and enjoy the fruits of my 2 and a half years of labour…. Thanks to you and all for the advice I, am sure there’ll be other issues I’ll need guidance in. G

Update: So I have tracked down and ordered a new hydraulic brake light switch. I am hoping this is the culprit in the case of my brake lights remaining on full when I turn the headlights on. Everything else is working well now, indicators, wiper motors, side lights and main beam. Just need to resolve the brake light problem and hoping this will do the trick. Any advice with fitting a hydraulic brake light switch on an early IIA would be well received. Thanks Gary P.S. Updated photo of George too…

Thanks, I’m starting to think they may be the originals… G

Thanks, the mystery continues and adventure moves on. I will see if I can track down an original set. It’s hard finding the parts over here in the US. I’m from the UK originally so May have to wait until I get back over to Blighty for a trip and bring an empty suitcase… Thanks Steve, Gary

Thanks Steve, They look great, though the question I have is are mine (shown in the picture) original. It looks like they were made by the Rupert Parachute Company of Wheeling Illinois, but not sure if my Land Rover would have had English original seat belts (if so what do the original English ones look like, name pet no. etc), or would my Land Rover have been fitted with North American Spec one and if so would they have been these Rupert Parachute company ones or another type? Thanks G

Good day all, As I have been slowly renovating George, my 1964 Series IIA, I noticed the seat belts that appeared to come with it were made by the Rupert Parachute company in Wheeling Illinois. It was made for the North American Market and delivered to the original owner in October of 1963. The question I have is, would the seat belts be original or after market. What were the standard seat belts for a 1964 Land Rover Series? Thanks to all wherever in the world you are… G

Thanks for all the advice so far. I have checked the dash panel and everything is how it should be so the issue of the brake lights staying on constantly is not found there. The next two places I need to check is the wiring at the back as it passes through the chassis as I have had some welding done back there and the wires may have shorted there somewhere. Failing that the only other place I can think of is the hydraulic brake switch above the pedal. I may check the rear wiring first as that may be more obvious but the brakes lights still come on full and constantly when I turn on the main beam… the good news is the indicators are now working, so one less fault to find. Here’s the latest front shot of George:

Just signed up to the Series Two Club, many thanks again.

That’s a good idea, I may try that. Thanks for the reply and advice.

Thanks Steve, I’ll share some photos in another post. Thanks for all the help, I hope to get out this weekend and work on it. Lots of great advice so thank you all. Gary

Thanks for the link to your website, lovely work. I got side tracked yesterday with trying to fit some new fence posts. It sounds like I need to do a little more research into the positive earth side of things. I have recently primed, painted and in some places sealed with Eastwood rust prohibitor the chassis and body work so I wonder whether the circuit has been disrupted. I'll read through you website to see if there is anything on this positive earth issue and if I find anything elsewhere I will share back. I'm so close to getting George up and running again... Thanks for your time and great to meet you. G

Thanks for the replies, wish me luck. G

No, only the original lights, It's all original and I am lucky that there is no aftermarket items on it. It worked before I started messing with it so it must be something I have done. Thanks for the reply and great to meet you. G

Thanks, yes it is a positive earth, forgot to mention that. I'm going to work through it today and see if I can fault find. I just wanted to ask the crowd before jumping in as it may save me time... Thanks for the reply and I will go back over any items I have fitted that might be negative earth. Thanks so much. G

Hello All, My name is Gary, I'm from the UK originally but now live over in the USA. Thanks for letting me be part of this forum, I promise I will do my best to avoid asking stupid questions, but realize my first question my fall into that category. So I own a 1964 Land Rover Series 2A 109 wheelbase. I am the third owner and over the years despite being looked after fairly well and surviving a journey down the Pan American Highway from Washington State to Cape Horn Argentina, so George has a wonderful history and deserves to be gently restored and returned to a good working order, which brings me to my very first question. I have just finished restoring the bulkhead which was pretty rusted and needed attention. I removed the instrument panel and before doing so I photographed every connection from multiple angles and also draw a wiring diagram with colour coding to ensure i returned the wiring to its original state. Not having an electricians background I wanted to make sure everything was in its place and I avoided any fire hazards in the dash panel. So the bulkhead is now restored and I returned the wiring to its original state. I hooked up a new battery and connected the headlights, indicators and side lights too. I reconnected the full beam, dip switch that was located in the foot well and everything else too. I put the key in the ignition and turned the light on and the sidelights and headlights came on as they should, the indicators don't work and that may just be the bulb or some other connection, but the main issue is the added bonus on the brake lights now being on full time when I turn on the headlights. I have checked the wiring and just don't see anything out of place or disconnected. What I need help with is the best way to fault find. Or if anyone has by chance had the same thing happen. I thought it may be because the indicators are not working so I will run out today and get new bulbs to cancel out that possibility but beyond that I am stuck, any advice? Many thanks and pleased to be part of this forum. G