OzzieLR90

Great Mod... Now that it's several years later. Is there an off the shelf Carling switch to do this? I'd hate to mess this up. Ozzie

Thank you!!. This is excellent to read thru. I have a Heavy Duty Glow Plug Timer Relay Controller that I'm going to fit on the bulkhead soon. There's never been on one this vehicle. At least not in the last 8 years since the previous owner got it from Italy. Would you happen to have the 2007 model year Power Distribution diagram?, Seems like the Ignition switch on the 2002 is different. I am looking at the power distribution in the diagrams on the link you shared and that 2002 MY Iginition switch has 7 spades. Mine is the 2007+ MY with only 4 separate pins, Numbered 1-5 but Pin 4 is non existent... Pin 2 has 2 spades on same connection. best, Ozzie

Reading this thread just saved me another hour of tracing, Thank you!

Hi folks. 1988 LR90, LHD, 300tdi/R380/LT230 and axles from a 1996 Discovery 1 Previous owner had a small harness fire and swapped out everything to a small Kwikwire 12 circuit Fuse box. Fast forward to last year when I had a very reputable shop in Florida swap out the original ignition switch to a new 2007+ switch with a set of keys and 3 matching lock tumblers for the all around Puma doors that I sourced and fitted I think it's been wired incorrectly, even though the truck runs. This is the Ignition with Pins 1 thru 5, but no Pin 4 on the switch. This is what I have currently. Pin1-Out to Starter Pin2-( Double Spade) Batt Hot coming in to it. Pin3- has a wire headed to the output side of a fuse in that box that gets power when the switch is in Run. Pin 4 doesn't exist Pin5- out to power the ACC circuits on the fuse box. From what I have searched on the internet for the last week, the correct wiring should be Pin 1- OUT To Starter Pin 2-OUT to Feed ACC circuits , Fuel Pump and IGN power Pin 3- INPUT from BATT Pin 4- doesn't exist Pin 5-Out to Glow Plug Timer Relay. Which is Right~? ALSO.. I've always seen a single relay on the engine side Bulkhead of Factory 300 tdi's, HOW is THAT WIRED? WHAT Size RELAY? Thank you, Ozzie

Hi Stephen, Here's my YT channel, I try and help as much as possible and even though it's slow to produce these videos I try as best I can to upload something every month or so sometimes more. https://youtube.com/channel/UC5HIDwme0aAOSgT13vG0SFg

Hi there folks!! What a great welcome, Thank you. As requested, here are some pictures!! I tried to update the profile with a picture but I think I have to make the profile chosen picture smaller. I have attached a few photos of the 1988 LR90. Currently have front puma doors and a rear puma door, As well as puma front seats and rear forward facing lock and folds. For some provenance I added a few pictures of my 1993 long wheelbase Range Rover classic 4.2L V8 that I built in 2000 and sold in 2006.. Full interior safety devices roll cage mantec safety devices skiplate mantec snorkel rovertym rear bumper and tree sliders ARB front with X9 winch, auto meter gages for the important things.... I built it as a forever truck and it's current owner is still driving it the same in Seattle Washington.

Hello there. I'm Ozzie Silvera from Miramar, I have read several postings from your site over the last year and just joined today. I messaged Western and he suggested I post to the forum, I apologize for this long winded first message... I have a 1988 LR90 with Full 300tdi/R380/LT230 1.2 Drivetrain, Discovery 1 Axles front and rear. Previous owner pulled all the wiring and replaced it with a 12 circuit Kwikwire set up. It works..... But I'm adding many more circuits now Pwr Windows, Heated seats, Heated front and rear windscreens, heated side mirrors, small stereo, some AUX rack lights.... Normally I do all the electrical work myself on cars, but several months ago I had a well known shop in central Florida install a new 2007+ Iginition switch Part # LR077439... My Main reason was because the switch came with 2 new large style keys and 3 lock cylinders which I used on my 2 Puma front doors and Puma rear door, so now I have 1 key that opens everything and starts the 90. I asked them to run 2 wires out of the switch for my later use, one IGN power and the other ACC power. They did and I didn't give it another thought. A few days ago while starting to sort out and clean up the Previous owners wiring work in preparation for adding the extra circuits and accesories I came across the 2 wires from the switch. I want to replace the entire small 12 circuit little box with a Dual Split circuit Fuse panel which I can feed the ACC wire to one side and the IGN wire to the other.. and then fuse and wire accordingly..First I will sort and group all the wires in the 12 circuit tiny box to separate the BATT Hot, IGN and ACC wires.. However the wire that was labeled ACC is Hot all the time. I looked at the back of the switch and Saw how it was wired. The rear of the switch is what I call the new style with a #1,2,3 & 5. with #2 having two spades. I read a post on this site from April 2012 where Western helped out a member named theloneboarder with his wiring diagram dilemma. One of his last posts were his findings, saying this is what he found to be the correct wiring pin out.. ( I'm not referencing colors since I have barely any original wires in the car #1- to Starter #2-to Solenoid ( Fuel Cut off?) and 12V Ignition #3-12V FROM BATT ( Hot constant)) #4 Non existant #5 OUT TO GLOW PLUG ( I suspect in my case to Glow Plug Timer Relay) Now Mine is wired like this #1- to Starter #2-12V FROM BATT ( Hot Constant) #3- The wire labelled ACC ( Not actually wired to anything at the moment) #4- NOTHING #5-to the IGN feed wire they (the Florida shop) ran ( Also not used at the moment) That IGN labeled wire is tied into another thick wire that disappears into a harness loom. This may be what feeds the 12 circuit fuse box, I will trace that in a couple of days With a tester I found that #1 is what momentarily feeds the starter so that seems to be correct. and that #5 goes hot when the key is either in the acc pos or the Run position. That's as far as I've gotten in the last 2 days. I know for certain that #1 feeds the starter or a starter relay ( I don't think I have a Starter Relay but will install one in short order) now if I could get an answer as to where the Constant BATT Hot goes. Is it #2 with the DUAL male spades or #3 as a dedicated spade to receive constant 12V Hot from the batt. Thank you for your patience in reading my 1st query.. Best, Ozzie

Hello there folks. For many months I have always found very helpful suggestions and advice from this forum when doing google searches for issues that arise when working on my LR90. So Today, became a member and then did the long term supporting thing thru Paypal. I figure if some advice and help from this forum helps me save a few hours on a project then it's always worth it to support this great flow of Experience and advice. My truck is an Italian Import LHD 1988 LR90 Hardtop. The previous owner obtained a complete 1996 300 tdi Donor Disco1 at some point several years ago and installed the entire drivetrain in the LR90. So now it's a 300tdi/R380/LT230 1:2 and Disco Axles front and rear moving the 90 down the Florida streets and trails.. One thing the previous Owner did was have a small Smoke Party with the wiring and pulled most all of it and replaced it with a small 12 wire Kwikwire wiring harness, similar to what you'd put in a quick kitcar, It works, but now that I'm adding lots of stuff on it, It's getting replaced.. I've done the YRM rear Puma Tub conversion myself, added the Puma Half Leather forward facing lock and fold seats, Geniune Seatbelt retaining brackets, Masai sliding side glass, Puma doors front and rear. Power windows, heated seats, MoD HVAC system, etc... Documenting most all on a small YT channel I made. Slowly but surely I'll add pics and update the profile. Thanks you all for being here and having suck a great site.! Ozzie