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bishbosh last won the day on July 12 2019

bishbosh had the most liked content!

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About bishbosh

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    HfH irritator in chief

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    Norf end of Zummerset

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    Bridge design, land rovers, the great outdoors etc. etc.

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  1. You'll need to plug her in to a diagnostics tool to find out. Could be electronic, could be mechanical. It is anyone's guess until you plug her in unfortunately.
  2. Get the existing surface planed to remove the paint and expose the aggregate. Then pour a 10mm aggregate mix to bring up the level. Your concrete supplier should be able to advise on any bonding agent and the mix design. You could even use a repair mortar but that will probably be prohibitively expensive. Avoid any tapering of the thickness below 20mm (2 x nominal aggregate size). You'll have to break out locally if you have high spots. Good luck.
  3. 3 packets of smarties and a (dark chocolate, obviously) Bounty.
  4. What's the square access panel on the axle casing? Locker actuator?
  5. What about a unistrut channel instead of drawer runners? Could that be more rigid?
  6. I have one too - she's great - tells me when my dinner is ready and everything!
  7. Frankly, I doubt you'll get a bad job from any galvanizers - it isn't a business any tin pot cowboy can set up - takes huge investment and needs a big client base to survive. So I'd just find your nearest one (check out the galvanizer's association's website) and go for it.
  8. The 28 day figure is arbitrary and is usually associated with strength gain and standard tests that are done - i.e. "28 day strength" The screed may have recommended overcoating durations and the paint will certainly say how young the substrate can be. All will be weather sensitive in terms of impact on durations. The best bits of advice from above are 1. Damp meter, 2 the plastic covering and 3 longer is better!
  9. or run the winch rope under the car, to a snatch block at the back of the garage which will give a centralised pull.
  10. That's because welded joints are somewhat less prone to movement than timber joints. If it was a timber gate I'd agree and have the diagonal in compression to minimise any movement as the joint takes up load.
  11. Yep, as Fridge says, cut out the rot (angle grinder or plasma cutter) then weld in repair pieces. Not a job for the feint hearted but definitely doable by a competent DIYer
  12. Suggest also that both diagonals run from top left to bottom right, assuming hinge is on left hand side and that you are welding the joints. Reason being that your highest loaded, and longest member (inner diagonal) is in tension. You could in theory use round bar for the diagonals to save weight but that would make fixing the wood a tad challenging! Angles would be good for the diagonals, sized to suit your preferred fixing method/ the rectangular frame can be box, angle or channel section, again to suit your chosen fixing method. Having said all that though, realistically, strength i
  13. My money is on the tyres too. Best fix for large angry rubber is to put about 200g of ceramic airsoft beads into the tyre and remove all lead balancing weights from the wheel rim. Trust me it works!
  14. Connect them in series for the winch. 😈😈
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