disconc

Hi Fridge, okay, thank you so much for all this wealth of information and feedback. Cheers Erik.

Hi Fridge, sorry for my late, I was away up to now... Ok, I see what you mean, so you were talking about the plenum below, not the bunch of bananas... sorry, you know, here under the tropics, "bananas" are our kind of things !!! I have no way to have a look around this plenum, but as I understand from megasquirt-V8, you will have to make a few mods to it for the PWM valve to be added as it would be on a megasquirted "3.9 style". Thank you for your feedback Cheers Erik.

Hi Jon, thank you very much for your hands on real life feedback, this is very valuable ! Mr Fridge, I do not know what is used stock on these engines, but I saw a picture of a very clean PWM idle valve mounting on these manifolds below (thanks Nige ) Thanks again to everyone. Have a nice weekend Cheers Erik

Fridge, Bowie, thanks again for your ideas. Yes, that might be a great solution when getting rid of the AFM... I already have the MAT sensor mounted in the output tubing from the airbox, just before the Lucas AFM, but If I replace the AFM with Megasquirt-V8 AFM replacement unit, I could use the provided MAT boss to screw in some kind of barb fitting, and then tubing to the PWM valve wherever I want it... That is clever as I was thinking of a bung to plug the MAT boss... so this might be a great solution Thank you again gents Erik.

Hi Fridge, Elbekko, yes, I see the idea... clever, including the air valve... yet this is beyond what I am ready to tackle, as it would involve many other things like throttle linkage + kickdown cable, air tubing to the airbox, coil pack mounting (as on the 3.9 I am using Nige's bracket which uses the plenum screws).... Thanks anyway for the ideas, as it might help someone else one day working on a MS conversion... Erik

Hi Bowie, ok, thanks for your answer, that is definitely clear now for me ! So I will have to mess around the plenum with the valve to try to find a way to mount it with the correct air flow direction, and suitable hoses to connect. Ok, I see how you have it installed Any other gentleman around here, having a PWM valve fitted to a 3.9 disco or RR classic, that could please share the way they have it mounted and connected (tubing)... trying to gather a maximum of ideas instead of trying to re-invent the wheel ! Thanks for your help Erik.

Hi Steve, thanks for your feedback... yes, that is the idea, trying to find an alternative potentiometer that could be modified to fit... I am wondering about the spindle which sticks out from the pot... I need to have a look at it, yet I do not have any dead one at hand... Any other feedback or experiment at fitting an alternative throttle pot welcome Thanks you Erik

Hi Bowie, Fridge, thanks again for your support. From what I have seen up to now on the net, as I do not have many choice around here at the local parts shop, It does not seem that easy to find something more generic to replace this TPS, and indeed, the options quoted above are quite expensive... Maybe then I should try second hand units on ebay... but they might be in the same state of "age" as the one I have. All I have found on ebay up to now was : => 1 "for parts or not working" at 80 GBP !!! => 1 used in the US for 122 GBP !!! => 1 brand new in the US for : 550 GBP !!! Considering this, the ACT solution for something new at 150 GBP finally does not seem that crazy. Anyhow, if anyone around has another solution, as stated by Mr Fridge, for something more generic that could be made to fit ... I (and I believe we) would definitely be interested... Thank you all Cheers Erik

Hi Fridge, Bowie, thanks for your answers. Thank you also for the pointer to ASH, they have really plenty of things among which I will surely find my need, yet, I have to check with them if they would ship to New Caledonia (that is a nightmare !) About the valve, I am sorry, but I want to be sure I understand it clearly (I am not english native speaker), from what you both told, it seems the air must travel through the valve in one specified direction, which corresponds to the red arrow on my picture below (arrow which can also be seen on the casting of the valve itself). Is that right ? ... because for my setup, it would be really easier to have the valve mounted as shown on the picture, and thus the air flowing through it as shown by the green arrows on the picture below. Sorry, but can you please confirm the valve can not be used with the air flowing through it as illustrated by the green arrows below ? Bowie, If you have some spare time , would you please mind posting a picture of the way you mounted your PWM valve ? Thank you all for your help Best regards Erik.

Hi gents, Ok, I have another one for ya Today, in the idea of finally squirting my tank, I made a trial fit of v8-mevasquirt PWM bracket and valve... And, faithfully, I have issues : 1. Nige's bracket is a piece of art and fits straight and square to the engine 2. Yet the disco engine bay is too small! If i fit the valve as intended, even without the plug at the back of the valve, it is already touching the firewall, and also the tubing from plenum to valve might foul with the kick down cable (auto box) , see attached picture. Any MS disco with a PWM valve fitted... What is your secret for fitting it? Pics welcome! Thanks. Nige, if you are around, what have I missed please ? 3. Difficult for me to find a suitable tubing for the valve, as its ports are bigger than the plenum ports... Either fits to plenum, but can not fit to the bigger pwm valve ports... Or fit to pwm valve, but way too big for the plenum ports!! What have i missed again? I have no solution yet for the tubing size, but intend to mount the pwm the other way around, as in second picture... My question is : is this okay? I would add a plate, on top of Nige's bracket, so the valve will be mounted 90 deg off its intended position... BUT... Is this ok for the airflow, as it will be entering on the side port and exiting from the in-line port... Reverse of how it was intended, including the arrow in the ali casting of the valve showing the flow.... What do you guys think about this? Does it make a difference? Thank you very much in advance for your feedback and help. Cheers Erik.

Hi everyone, I am slowing moving towards finally MS1 fuel and spark (for the last 7 years, I was using MS1'n'EDIS spark only... don't beat me ), and as I have an annoying warm engine stalling issue I believe is linked to the AFM or TPS or 14CUX... I will move away to MS. Now, in preparing this conversion, and considering the TPS on my engine is 20 years old and might be giving me trouble already maybe, I was willing to replace it. When looking for this part, ERR2263, I discovered it is "SOLD OUT" everywhere, or selling at more than gold crazy prices. I am sure I am not the only one in this case, and as the TPS is still wired in MS1, how do you guys deal with this part replacement when needed ? Do you have any suggestion please ?? Only things I found on the web are two aftermarket "products", which look the same though : 1°) E0467, TVR Throttle Potentiometer Rover V8 Pre-Serp and Serpentine Engine at RACETECH TVR Rover V8 throttle pot (replacement for the round and oval plug). Will fit Pre-Serp and Serp engines. Will also replace Land Rover part ETC8495 and ERR2263. https://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/car-parts/electrical/sensors-switches-and-control-units/e0467-tvr-car-part-tvr-throttle-potentiometer-rover-v8-pre-serp-and-serpentine-engine/ 2°) SP002 Rover V8 throttle pot upgrade kit at ACT PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS. Consists of: Colvern throttle pot, alloy adapter plate, Brass spidle, ball bearing, stainless cover plate, fixings & loom socket Once this kit is fitted, throttle pot replacements are cheap and easy using the colvern unit. http://www.actproducts.co.uk/product/sp002-rover-v8-throttle-pot-upgrade-kit/ What do you guys think about these ?? Anyone fitted one of these ?? The first one clearly states being a replacement for ERR2263. The second one is also sold buy Mark Adams, the 14CUX guru, on his tornado systems website, as an aftermarket replacement solution... If no other good solution from you clever gents, I would be really interested to have feedback on the above... Thank you for your attention Best regards from the other side of the world (New Caledonia) Erik.

Hello fellow LR owners, I have a good one to tell and looking forward to receiving some ideas before I can take time to look into it. Last night, my wife was driving our 1998 Disco 1 V8 3.9 auto, when crossing a big puddle of water, she briefly saw the battery warning light flash... then nothing further. Still driving about 1h later, car was behaving nicely, and suddenly as she was exiting a round-about, she lost the power steering and had the battery and oil pressure warning lights on. She managed to pull over on the side of the road and called me. According to her (wish I could have been there to see things by myself), the engine was idling fine, no different noise from usual, yet the 2 warning lights were on and no power steering. When she called me, telling the above, I though the serpentine drive belt might have gone south, so told her to switch off, as if this was the case, there would not have been water pump anymore... and I went to meet her. I arrived about 30 mn later, opened hood, and found nothing or everything... => drive belt was were it should be => no apparent signs (by night) of tear or contamination by any fluid => no leaks under the engine => fluid levels were fine I told her to start the car : everything was fine, no more warning lights, power steering back... Damn'it those kind of problems that disappear. I drove myself the car back home, in case it would happen again, 30 mn trip, 6 round-abouts, a bit of highway, a winding road... running smooth as silk !! So my problem now is that something had happened, and I want to know what to be able to fix it and prevent any further problem like loosing power steering on a mountain pass road !!! It was late last night and it is not a daily driver, so will look into it hopefully on the weekend, but now looking for some ideas. Here are my thoughts : => no power steering and battery light on => looking for something around serpentine drive belt => remove the belt and inspect it, maybe even replace it => check the automatic belt tensioner (but last night, the marks on it were not aligned, so I believe the belt tension is fine) => check every pulley to see if any play other than rotation => check for any leaks : coolant, steering ?? Yet, I still do not get why the engine oil light was also on... as the oil pump is crank driven, not by the belt. Also, if the belt was slipping to the point of battery light on, no power steering, yet engine idling steadily with headlights and AC on... it should have made some noise, or smelt burnt rubber but my wife said apart what described, no other different noise !?! If you gents please have any idea of what happened and what I could have a look at to try and fine the culprit, that would be great ! Many thanks in advance for your help Best regards from South Pacific Erik

Hi Gents, thanks for your contributions. BBC, I do agree with you that this aftermarket rad surely has changed the OEM specs for the oil circuit, hence the pressure difference. Someone told me also that the combined coolant/oil rad also has the benefit of "warming" the oil... Mr Fridge, I do also agree with you on testing simple things first, like by passing the cooler to see how it goes pressure related, but I am not sure to be able to source easily around here the required fittings... cooler side, they are the fittings with a tube sliding in another one, with an o ring and a metric nut holding together. Although bringing up the idea of stiffening the PRV spring to try and compensate for the aftermarket part... I am a bit afraid of messing this up in fact really. So, as soon as possible, I will recheck everything, with a new gauge, then even change oil and filter to be sure all is clean... and keep an eagle eye on my pressure, as 20 psi is all good on idle and 30 psi still seems okish for an engine not going past the 3000 rpm more than a few secs for a kickdown :-)) Thanks for your help Best regards Erik

Hi gents, thanks for the feedbacks and head scratching. Bowie, sorry, forgot to tell, it is a mech gauge ;-) BBC, I have been told there is no stat on the stock oil circuit of these (no sandwich plate used at the filter). Just after the pump, a hose exits the oil pump casing vertically and goes to the cooler, then back to the filter housing, on the side. The PRV is just after the pump and before the cooler. If pressure of the pump reaches the PRV threshold, it allows part of the oil to go back to the sump. So I am back to my 2 questions : 1°) new rad free flowing, so less back pressure to the pump, and indeed not reaching the PRV threashold... but I doubt, as even past 3000 rpm, the oil pressure is rock solid at 30 psi, as if it was regulated... the same at cold start... With a free flowing rad, and when not reaching the PRV threshold, I should get more "fluctuation" of the oil pressure with the revs I guess ?? 2°) new rad more restrictive => creates more backpressure than before to the pump, where the PRV is located, hence making it open and thus regulate the pressure (so it stays steady even when reving), at the same pressure as before (yet not monitored), but because the new rad is more restrictive, with the same "regulated" input pressure as before the resulting output pressure to the block is 10 psi less (at the location where the gauge is fitted). The more I think about it, the more this second choice makes sense... but I have no way to confirm. If it was true, I believe then upping a little the PRV would result in higher pressure out of the rad... Seems there is a circlips somewhere holding a plug which houses the PRV spring and plunger... so it would be a matter of finding where all this is located, remove the circlips, the plug, add a washer, refit the plug and circlips... try... But has anyone done this before ? adding a washer to the PRV spring ? any pictures ? advices ? Thanks again for your time and help fellow V8 head scratchers ) Best regards Erik

Hi Bowie, not yet tested with another gauge, but before switching off engine just before rad change, the actual one was giving the required pressure, and imediately after rad change, readings are different... so I am pretty sure gauge is not the problem... but of course, Murphy's law makes it possible to have the gauge go west at the same time as rad change... As soon as I can find one and plug it, I will try just to be sure... but faithfully not this weekend (will get my wisdom teeth removed... aouch) Best regards Erik

Hi all, thank you very much for your opinions on these oil matters. Indeed, the engine wear condition can not have changed before and after the rad change, and when rebuilt, the rocket shaft and shells have been changed, so not that "old". So drop in pressure can not be explained by sudden engine wear. In the same idea, nothing was messed during rad change around the PRV, the oil lines were plugged on disassembly to prevent anything to get inside and I removed the rad oil connection port plugs at the last time before connecting the oil lines, also to prevent dirt ingress inside the rad... My gauge takes its reading exactly at the same place (Tee in) as the stock pressure warning switch. Before changing rad, it would behave exactly as stated in the RAVE and would indeed deliver the 40 lbf/in² at 2500 rpm, measured at the oil pressure switch hole. So the oil pump does not need to be fixed I guess... it is the new rad that made the problem appear ! From what I have gathered, I have two mixed/opposite feelings, and I don't know which one is correct : 1°) Greater flowing oil cooler, which makes the pressure less than before, but at 30 psi and better flow, well I believe it can be ok with this, it is not a race track engine... but is it reality ?? 2°) More restrictive oil cooler, which in turn creates an increase in pressure before the rad, triggering the pressure relieve valve (which is before the rad), thus resulting in lower pressure at the output of the rad/filter and in the engine... This is where I could imagine tweaking the PRV (adding a washer between spring and plug) to increase the PRV threshold and force a bit more pressure into the cooler and thus in the engine... as in this case, the engine or oil pump are not to be fixed, it is just the aftermarket cooler being more restrictive... but would this create too much additionnal stress on the oil pump ? How to be sure which one is the correct situation ? and how to deal with it ? Thank you all for your ideas Best regards Erik.

Hi Mr Fridge, thanks for your answer. From what I have been told, it should be : sump -> pump -> cooler -> filter -> gauge/switch -> engine I hope so much it would work as you said... yet I am a bit worried that, if on the contrary, imagine the pump is delivering as before, but the new rad is more restrictive, creating this way an increase in pressure at the pump outlet. This might lead to the pressure relief valve to activate, resulting in a drop of pressure at the rad/filter outlet... maybe ? Anyhow, NISSENS rad = 10 psi oil pressure drop !! Damn'it !! But, it will be very hard for me to change rad again, so, considering the oil pressure I am registering by now (20 psi warm idle / 30 psi on the run at any other rpm) would it be sensible to try and up a little the pump pressure ? Maybe for example by trying to add a little washer at the back of the oil pump relief valve spring, in order to stiffen the valve spring a little and increase the pump delivered pressure... Would this be ok or would this put detrimental stress on the oil pump for un-necessary gain in oil pressure at the engine considering the actual figures ? Thanks in advance for your feedbacks and help Best regards Erik

Hi all, I need ideas from V8 gurus around here about oil pressure in the V8. History : 3.9 V8 serpentine, 192000 km, rebuilt 5 years ago when car bought, stock engine in auto disco 1. Fitted an oil pressure gauge since the rebuilt to keep an eye on it. Running on castrol edge 25w50 as I am living in a warm climate and using genuine LR oil filter. It has been looking perfect since then : 40 psi whatever the rev when cold, then 20 psi minimum on warm idle, and would climb up with the rev to 40 psi from about 2000 rpm and will stay like this on higher rpm. So all looking good up to now. Then, after changing the viscous fan which was engaged (and noisy) all the time... it appeared that the engine then wanted to run pretty hot, yet (as I have also a coolant temp gauge) I Never let it overheat. After changing several parts, step by step, it appeared that the stock old rad was surely clogged inside, as installing a new rad cleared the hot running issue. BUT !!! since the new rad (it is a NISSENS, plastic/steel one)... the oil pressure does not reach 40 psi anymore !?!? Just before switching off the engine to swap the rad, the oil pressure was acting as stated above. Changed the rad, refilled, restarted, and from then on : 30 psi when cold, then 20 psi minimum on warm idle, and would climb up with the revs up to 30 psi... but will never go above now ! So I am wondering a few things : -> Is there any bleeding necessary of the oil cooler circuit when replacing the rad ? (not much oil leaked from the oil lines I had plugged on disassembly, but the new cooler was empty from oil after rad replacement) -> I believe the oil pump is pushing the oil into the cooler and then into the filter and finally to the engine... but where is the pressure taken exactly (my gauge takes the pressure at the same location as the stock pressure warning switch) ? Is this just after leaving the pump or is it after cooler and filter ? If pressure taken after leaving the pump, could it be that the new cooler is more "free flowing" than the original (clogged) rad, meaning that with less back pressure from the rad, the pump builds less pressure but with a greater flow ? If pressure taken after the cooler and filter... then I don't know... Well, could anyone please help me understand and give me clues on : => why has the max oil pressure lost 10 psi just after swaping the rad and nothing else disturbed ???? => do I have to worry about this behaviour and what should I do about it ? Thanks for feedback in advance Best regards Erik.

Hi Guyz, little update to this case... sorry it took so long... New radiator received, it is a Nissens, steel and plastic... not the kind of stuff I was hoping. Would have preferred the all copper one, like was the stock unit. Anyway, considering the situation, I decided to use this one as a replacement. Good point is, it is really a drop-in replacement, no worries for the oil cooler thread sizes, etc... So went for a test drive, and this time, I can say the hot running is solved. IT WAS INDEED A CLOGGED INSIDE RAD PROBLEM ! BUT : since starting the engine with this new radiator, I noticed that my oil pressure is not like it has always been before. Indeed, before swaping rads, I always had with a warm engine, constant 40 psi at 2000 rpm (and above) and 20 psi at idle. Since the new rad, I still (lucky) have my 20 psi at warm idle, but whatever the revs, I never go past the 30 psi mark... it even seems that when I push the revs up, the pressure drops a few psi under 30 ... Damn it !!! what's this new thing ? Is the new rad not enough or too much restrictive on the engine oil cooler (as nothing else has changed on the oil side when swapping rads ) ? I took care to plug the oil cooler lines when doing the swap to prevent dirt, but considering the spillage of oil from the rad, maybe on starting with the new rad, there is some air trapped somewhere on the oil pump circuit ?? I have driven on motorway to watch for the temp for about an hour, but oil pressure never changed from the 30 psi mark while driving, whatever the revs... SO my friends, any new ideas or suggestions on this matter ??? Thanks for your kind help Best regards Erik.

Thanks for your answer. I will keep the forum posted with what I found... as soon as tools and parts arrive down to me here, and I manage to find a weekend to go for it ! Cheers. Erik.

Hi Gents, thanks for your answers. As I had no other stat at hand, and to rule out a sticky stat, this is why I gutted it ! so for test purpose, I am sure it is not a stat problem ! I have a new one on order along with the rad, and this time, I will definitely test it before fitting on the stove with a thermometer !! I agree that if it was designed with the stat in, it should be working ok with it fitted. Now, I have also read an explanation from our Nige which was convincing about fitting restrictor plate instead of a thermostat, so it will take longer to warm up for sure, yet really not a problem in our climate, but will also never fail closed... makes sense ! (all the more that I still intended to finalise fitting Megasquirt to it, so warm up enrichment threshold temperatures can be tweaked :-)). Also read somewhere that the rover V8 would produce more power at 80°C rather than 90°C... Stat is fitted with bleed hole at top. Ok. Expansion cap is new and holds pressure (like the previous one... but swapped also to be sure). About airlocks, I did my best to bleed the system, filling in the expansion tank until it flows out of the rad,with front right end of the truck elevated, with heater on hot, then plugged rad and continue filling to level in exp tank. Let it cool down, check level. Then went for a drive... when at operating temp, stopped and opened expansion tank quickly, letting air "burp out" as suggested once by an aulro member. After one or two hippo farts like this... opening the expansion when hot lets escape a bit of pressure "pschhh" sound (normal from my point of view for a pressurised system), but no more kind of bubble in the warer thing... On this model of 3.9 disco 1, there is also a little hose that goes from thermostat to intake, then back to expansion tank, which I have been told makes a good job for bleeding. I have also tried to put this little hose and the top radiator hose as low as possible ref the expansion tank to try and avoir an airlock... as I also find that the top hose of the radiator seems quite high. Tried squeezing a little top rad hose to help bleeding also... Still need to check the bottom hose under revs (checked at idle... looked ok) but haven't though of checking if collapsing under revs Plastic plugs replaced by brass ones :-) Well, still crossing fingers it is just the rad which is not up to the job anymore... bought the car as it had 185 000 km on clock, without any service history... A friend of mine rebuilt the engine, but rad was just cleaned and repainted... so I do not know how old it is (my mate warned me about it though !, yet up to now, with the previous defective nearly always on viscous, it had never run warm... maybe one thing hidding the other ?) Thanks for your time and effort in analyzing my posts ;o) Cheers Erik.

Hi Robertspark, thanks for your reply. Belt is routed the right way, in fact, have not touched it before and after the hot running appeared. Hot running obvious since i replaced my stat for cooler 82°C one and a new viscous to replace the previous nearly locked all the time. Now I know that the 82°C stat was working ok, after having tested it in a water pan on stove. And I have tested 2 new viscous, all behaving the same, say not engaged as much as the original one, just only when coming to a stop or in low range. Engine does not have stock lambda and cats, and I check the temperature with a VDO addon gauge plus Rovergauge (which displays the temperature as seen by the Lucas ECU... which is the temps I quoted above, so I don't think the ECU is in warm up mode seing around 100°C. I also had a wideband gauge fitted in the exhaust, and it looks really okish. All plugs look the same light brown (not white nor sooted). I am just really crossing fingers that I do not have a head gasket on its way or a problem on the block... and I do really hope it is just a clogged rad inside... New rad on its way and ordered also on ebay a block test to check if gaz in coolant... All feedback and opinion on the tests detailled above are welcome... clogged rad or worse ?? Thanks mates Regards Erik.

Hi everyone, I have a warm running 3.9 V8 disco 1 autobox that I would appreciate some ideas about. I live in New Caledonia, so quite warm tropical climate. Engine has been completely rebuilt 5000 km ago by a mate when I bought over this car. It now has 192000 km on the clock. I have fitted from the beginning an aftermarket VDO gauge for water temp and oil pressure monitoring. Since I started driving this car, after the initial warming and stat opening cycle (that I can see on the aftermarket gauge), temperature has always sat on the 200°F mark, whatever town, road, hill, offroad, trailer driving. Yet, what was quite annoying is that apart from a few minutes from cold start, the viscous fan was nearly always on, even on open road, up to 3000 rpm !!! I was under the impression of driving an airplane :-) So I though the viscous was "too stiff" and decided to replace it by a new one, along with an 82°C stat to make it run a little bit cooler to be on the safe side in our climate. Yet, now I am banging head on the wall : "if it's not broken, don't fix it !!!" First, I shouldn't have done both at the same time. Second, from then on, it is running much warmer !!! I can not say overheat, because looking at the water temp gauge all the time, I have always stopped before boiling (never passed 105°C, never heard boiling coolant nor coolant passed the expansion tank cap or steam visible)... but if I had drove it only with dashboard temp gauge... who knows Yet, I am stuck. Here is what I have done since : -> with new 82°C stat and PR2 ALLMAKES viscous, I could barely heard the viscous, only in slow traffic and under 2000 rpm, yet it runs hotter than 200°F (about 210°F) -> replaced the new PR2 ALLMAKES viscous by a GENUINE LR one : same behaviour ! (so 2 new viscous same behaviour) -> replaced the 82°C stat by a gutted stat in which I have removed the center bullet to fake a constant open stat : same behaviour !!! -> new expansion tank cap And here is the last complete test done, looking at temps with VDO gauge, plus rovergauge on computer, telling the same : -> town driving, temp would vary from 93 to 97 °C -> open road driving at about 90/100 kmh, 97/98°C (around 2000 rpm) -> hitting a hill when road driving, would climb up to 105°C !!! (not passed 2000 rpm - can not hear the viscous) -> but as soon as coming down the hill, would fall back down to about 92°C, and then on flat ground, will come back to the 97°C again -> from then, as soon as I stop to open the hood, I hear the viscous engaged (and by the way, the electric aux fans in front of grill running also), and if i give it a fast 1000/1500 rpm idle, it roars and temp fall down to 93/94°C (and aux fans switch off as they should) -> When climbing a steep hill, first gear, low range, all diffs locked, at about 1000/1500 rpm, temp steady 97°C -> then on flat ground low range, up to 2000 rpm, viscous roaring, temp fall back to 93, even 92... Aux fans working as they should. Viscous locking when steady or at really low speeds (low range) or when town driving mainly when moving off, then free wheels Cooling system does not seem to over pressurize, and no exhaust smell when poping off the expansion tank cap Thermostat not sticking ! Took off 8 plugs, no signs of coolant or steam wash No signs of coolant on oil filler cap nor on dipstick (oil level constant) What do you guys think about all that ? I am left with 2 main things : -> clogged radiator, as I have no past service history, it might have the car's age (15 years)... he might be well clogged, and that might have been hidden up to now by the first viscous being locked nearly all the time and over forcing air through ? -> unfamous head gasket leak or cracked block... but why this becomes only visible following stat + viscous change !?! What is strange is that, when loading the engine in low range, so with viscous more engaged, it would not overheat as much as in high range, at the same rpm... so I hope it would only be the radiator just being not efficient enough, so when not "over forcing" air through it, it would not cool down coolant enough when loading engine, leading to running hotter ? Thanks in advance for your opinions and knowledge. Cheers from the South Pacific Erik.

Hi everyone, for what it is worth, here are my findings about an offset between real advance seen at the pulley and TunerStudio with EDIS. When TunerStudio shows 10 in gauge, timing lamp on pulley shows 7. So I made Spark Settings -> trim angle = 3. Now, when in a spark map bin showing 10, timing lamp shows 10 on the pulley, but the gauge in Tunerstudio shows 13. As I am a lazy mechanic, I did not want to change the VR position to correct the offset, so here is what I have done (this is only a shortcut to a good solution I know !). In the project directory of Tuner Studio, there is a projectCfg sub folder containing a mainController.ini file, dedicated to this project. I modified in the [OutputChannels] section the way advance spark, which is shown on the spark advance gauge, is calculated from the advance output of the MS. By default, it is : advSpark = { (advance * 0.352)-10 } (No idea where this formula comes from, but it is there !) so in my case, I made it : advSpark = { (advance * 0.352)-13 } And I am pretty happy with the result by now : advance table bin = TS gauge = mark on pulley :-)) If I have done something awfully wrong, please some grown up tell me, if not, I hope that might help others. Cheers Erik.

Hi Mr Fridge, thanks for your answer. Now I know I have not misunderstood something on the trim angle stuff. Following your advice, I have posted on MS extra forum but have not received an answer yet. For reference purpose, I continue here, in case someone else might be interested. On another hand, I browsed through the ini file, and discovered that the advance gauge is showing the value of "advspark" which seems to be calculated from the MS output "advance" : advSpark = { (advance * 0.352)-10 } Do you think it would just affect the gauge display if I change for example -10 by -12 in this calculated field, or would that affect something else ? Thanks again Erik.