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Hello everyone, Let me describe the condition I have encountered yesterday and would be glad if you tell me what it was. After locking the vehicle (US version, HSE) with remote, after trying to unlock it with remote pressing the unlock button twice to unlock read doors - does not work. Pressing the unlock button on the console does not help either. Locking/unlocking car with remote or the key - same situation - read doors, tailgate and fuel cap remain locked. I drove home, parked car in the garage, connected the battery to maintainer (just in case). This morning, came down, saw that battery is fully charged. Tried to unlock rear door - same situation. Tried with the second key - same. Then I put key in the ignition, turned it to position II, but did not start the car. Then turned the key to off, removed the key, closed the door, locked the car. When pressing the unlock button twice - now rear doors and fuel cap are unlocked. I repeated lock/unlock with the second key - works. Also checked the button on console - also locks/unlocks all doors. My questions: what it was, what caused this, how to avoid this happening again and was the procedure to bring back everything to normal right one? P.S. Does anyone got link to 2005 RR HSE US version manual? Driving it for 2 years already but have not seen the manual yet...

We are at highlands of Reno, Nevada. No paved roads and snow for 5 months during the year, plus +35C during summer times. I would not buy such a big thing but a high clearance/4WD/AWD vehicle is pretty much a must if one wants to reach our place from Nov to May. The nearest gas station or supermarket is 20 miles away. I don't quite follow. I asked a question - what should I expect, due to unfamiliarity with the product/specifics. Before buying it, we have not had cars for >12 years because we lived overseas in a huge city. The previous car I had was Lexus, I bought it 10 y/o, it served me for 8 years and totally I spent about $1500 on repairs during that 8 years. I am just trying to understand what to expect/to be aware of and what should I do proactively.

Thanks for your insights. well, repairs needed to be done - it was an oil leak before, and the engine mounts were pretty much gone. Plus other stuff. The thing is - I don't have much choice - there is only one non-dealer LR repair shop in the town. When we took the car to them, they did not even want deal with it, saying that 'you'd better sell it for $2k as junk, because repairs will cost $15K'. The nearest reputable shop is 350 miles away. And they charge $200/h. In another forum, someone wrote - a side benefit of owning LR is increasing the skillsets and knowledge of their product owners by turning them into mechanics. I get it, but unfortunately, I don't have a garage or means to repair it by myself either.

My wife saw a 2005 HSE for sale at our neighbor's place and for her, it was love at first sight. Long story short, we bought it fo $7000 and then spent $7500 repairing it - see the work performed quotes below. The vehicle has 135K miles on it, has never been in an accident, three owners, including us. We drive about 250 miles (not a typo) per month - so in a year we put about 4K more miles. Now the odometer shows 139K miles. So far after that, the vehicle was behaving OK/fine, well, except the following: There was a weird case ignition key lock - the dreaded case for a lot, but in my case, I removed the cover of the steering wheel, unplugged/re-plugged cables, made sure that the battery is always charged - the previous owner had three fuses removed that were connecting the dash/infotainment screen, saying that it was draining the battery - but after putting the fuses back and charging battery I don't observe drainage any more and since December I never had ignition key locked again. There were a couple of times that I could not open the tailgate by pressing either the console key or the tailgate button. It eventually works by turning the ignition off, removing the key, and starting the car again. No idea what causes it. My main question is - should I anticipate another huge bill for repair? Honestly, when we were looking for a car, our budget was $10-$15K and the car should be lasting for the next minimum 4-5 years without major repairs. The guys who performed the work (it was not an LR shop, they specialize in BMWs) told us that the engine after the work is good for another 100K miles and the transmission should last at least another 30K miles. But I had/have no exposure to LR before and since that have learned that reliability is not the attractive point of the car - a friend of mine told me (after the purchase) - 'they are a money pit and expect to spend $5k/year just to maintain then in running condition'. Is it this bad? What should I expect? Date Description Qty Rate Amount 07/07/2022 Labor REMOVE AND 19 130.00 2,470.00T REPLACE TIMING CHAIN WITH RELATE PARTS 07/07/2022 Parts TIMING CHAIN 1 95.00 95.00T 07/07/2022 Parts COMPLETE TIMING 1 319.00 319.00T CHAIN GUIDE KIT 07/07/2022 Parts CAM BOLT 2 9.00 18.00T 07/07/2022 Parts CRANKSHAFT GEAR 1 147.00 147.00T 07/07/2022 Parts VALVE COVER 2 65.00 130.00T GASKET 07/07/2022 Parts LOWER TIMING 1 65.00 65.00T COVER GASKET KIT 07/07/2022 Parts UPPER TIMING 2 11.00 22.00T COVER GASKET 07/07/2022 Parts WATER PUMP 1 12.00 12.00T GASKET 07/07/2022 Parts VANOS SOLINIOD 1 13.00 13.00T GASKET 07/07/2022 Parts COOLANT 2 27.00 54.00T 07/07/2022 Parts CRANK SHAFT 1 29.00 29.00T BOLT 07/07/2022 Parts FRONT 1 25.00 25.00T CRANKSHAFT SEAL 07/07/2022 SYNTHETIC PERFORMED 1 121.00 121.00 SYNTHETIC OIL SERVICE WITH INSPECTION 07/07/2022 Labor REMOVE AND 2.7 130.00 351.00T REPLACE ENIGNE MOUNTS 07/07/2022 Parts ENGINE MOUNTS 2 156.00 312.00T 07/07/2022 Parts BANK 2 POST CAT 1 190.00 190.00T O2 SENSOR 07/07/2022 Parts THERMOSTAT 1 132.00 132.00T 07/07/2022 Parts POWER STEERING 1 310.00 310.00T PUMP 07/07/2022 Parts POWER STEERING 1 25.00 25.00T FLUID 07/07/2022 Parts LOWER OIL PAN 1 52.00 52.00T GASKET ____________________________________________________________________________ SubTotal: $4,892.00 Tax: $165.80 -------------------------------------- Total: $5,057.80 And another Date Description Qty Rate Amount 12/12/2022 Labor PERFORMED 1 140.00 140.00T DIAGNOSIS OF NOISE FROM FRONT OF VEHICLE, STEERING SOMETIMES HAS NO ASSIST,CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND HEATER. 12/12/2022 Labor REMOVE AND 2.2 140.00 308.00T REPLACE RIGHT FRONT AXLE 12/12/2022 Parts RIGHT FRONT 1 601.00 601.00T AXLE 12/12/2022 Labor REMOVE AND 1 140.00 140.00T REPLACE SERVOTRONIC CONVERTER 12/12/2022 Parts SERVOTRONIC 1 202.00 202.00T CONVERTER 12/12/2022 Labor REMOVE AND 1.4 140.00 196.00T REPLACE DRIVE BELT TENSIONER ASSEMBLY 12/12/2022 Parts DRIVE BELT 1 162.00 162.00T TENSIONER 12/12/2022 Labor REMOVE AND 4.5 140.00 630.00T REPLACE CRANKCASEVENT VALVE AND RESEAL INTAKE MANIFOLD 12/12/2022 Parts PCV VALVE 1 142.00 142.00T 12/12/2022 Parts INTAKE MANIFOLD 4 15.00 60.00T GASKET 12/12/2022 Parts FRONT MANIFOLD 1 11.00 11.00T COVER GASKET 12/12/2022 Parts REAR MANIFOLD 1 11.00 11.00T GASKET ____________________________________________________________________________ SubTotal: $2,603.00 Tax: $98.27 -------------------------------------- Total: $2,701.27

I have 2005 RR HSE. Recently noticed a weird case when I press the trunk open button and it does not work. Neither works by pressing the button on the trunk itself to open it or trying to open it via key remote. If I turn the car off, then turn it again in one or two times, the trunk opening eventually works - using a button from the console or on the trunk itself, have not checked with the key remote. What might be causing this and how do I fix it? The battery is fully charged, radio/CD/lights are off. Also, a related question - is there an option to open the trunk mechanically, like with a key or a switch?

So the multimeter shows 14.1V on idle and 14.2 on 2000RPM. After just 30 min ride battery showed 12.7V voltage once turned off the ignition.

I am going to take the car to another parts shop where they do free battery alternator tests and at my BMW shop (the engine is BMW) to guys that I trust and ask their opinion. On another forum, I got a reply that the voltage with the running engine on the battery should be in the range of 14.2V-14.4V and also I got a link with a number of alternator options: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/land+rover,2005,range+rover,4.4l+v8,1431442,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412 Considering that the Bosch is rebuild and 2x more expensive, what are opinions on WAI GLOBAL 13815N?

Well, yesterday after escalating this matter to Paypal (called them and spoke with an actual human) I got the whole amount credited back to my card. I am still out of $17 for shipping but considering this as a learning experience. I still don't understand what caused this and why removing the steering column cover, disconnecting and re-connecting 2 plugs fixed this - if that was the problem in the first place. It might be the case that now when I have the car battery fully charged most of the time was contributing factor as well...

Nothing is flickering in terms of the electrical system, no warning lights, etc. Just when I took it to the auto parts shop they brought that tester and told me that battery is fine, but the alternator does not charge it as it is supposed to be. And the reason why I took it for the battery testing is that it has a parasitic drain, even when off - I left the car in the garage for 2 weeks and when got back was completely drained battery, I posted here about it. So I initially blamed this on a non-performing battery, thinking the battery that is less than 9 months old was bad. Did some reading and yep, discovered that this is a well-known problem as well. I got a smart battery charger that charges and then does battery maintaining. The question is - how to check if the alternator is going really bad or I can live with it in its current condition. I do have multimeter, just want to know how to test accurately.

During a recent test of the battery, I was told that the battery is fine, but the alternator does not do its job. I have a couple of questions - first of all, is it OK to leave it as is, without replacing it, considering that I drive less than 200 miles per month on this car and am putting the battery on maintainer/trickle charge between driving? Secondly, if I decide to replace the alternator, what model/manufacturer would you recommend? There is a whole zoo there from $100 to $1300 - I obviously won't pay the latter price, considering that I want to keep the car for no more than 2-3 years. Thanks.

Wanted to update on this matter: To fix the steering column lock I ordered for 132 euros emulator from Turkey that will bypass it.I received the shipment 1 month later, instead of a week. After removing the cover, I discovered that I can't plug that module because the wiring was different and the company did not provide any reply to my emails. I filed a claim with PayPal but have not received any resolution, so goodbye to 132 euros.However, one surprising outcome was that after I removed the steering column cover and disconnected and reconnected the immobilizer plugs, now the car starts without a problem.I don't know if the problem was the plug or the fact that now every time I come home I put the battery on a trickle charger so it is charged 100% every time I drive out - whatever the reason, I did not need to disconnect/reconnect the battery or leave the key inside the ignition cylinder.

It has been two months and I wanted to update and share new information. Excuse me in advance for a little bit write-up First, the car is L322 - 2005 RR HSE, US version/edition. Secondly, most importantly and paradoxically - the problem has gone away for about 1.5 months. Here is what has happened: I spent a good amount of time reading all over the internet about this problem. People say that the problem is either with the steering column and you are on the hook on $$$$ to replace it, or with the immobilizer mechanism at the steering column. In the latter case, the problem is that the key can't communicate with the mechanism, and as a result mechanism blocks the key in the cylinder. The solutions are to bypass that mechanism by wiring it to the ambient light. Another solution to bypass is to install an emulator that will send a signal to the immobilizer regardless of what key is installed. And after some search I came up with the company selling these, here is the link: https://goldcarkeys.com/product/for-range-rover-hse-l322-vogue-2001-2009-qmb500711-steering-lock-simulator-emulator/ Now, here is the full warning. - DO NOT BUY THESE, they are not compatible with 2005 RR HSE (at least with mine). I spent 132 euros on purchase and shipping, and received the shipment 1 month later, instead of a week. After removing the cover, I discovered that I can't plug that module because the wiring was different and the company did not provide any reply to my emails. I filed a claim with PayPal but have not received any resolution, so goodbye to 132 euros. However, one surprise outcome was that after I removed the steering column cover and disconnected and reconnected the immobilizer plugs, now the car starts without a problem. I don't know if the problem was the plug or the fact that now every time I come home I put the battery on a trickle charger so it is charged 100% every time I drive out - whatever is the reason, I did not need to disconnect/reconnect the battery or leave the key inside the ignition cylinder.

OK, contracted them, told the model of the car, and got the reply: Well, will try alternative approaches...

OK, thanks for letting me know, let me communicate with them directly and see what they will say.

Did you order it for your card and did it work? If yes, which year/model is your car? After losing 132 euros I don't want to spend another >100 euros on something I am not 100% sure will work.