Pistonsquirter

Don't know really, thought it would help promote flow forward & through the heads? Guess it's already come out the heads if it's got to the mani...

Hello Please be assured my low post count is due to epic levels of forum lurking, rather than me being a weird internet ghost of otherwise weirdo. lol... My 4.6 GEMS MS build has been value engineered down to carbs & MJ for the time being - to be fair this does suit the 80" it's going in Anyhoo, I was all for retaining the thermostat in the 2" SU manifold I've got hold of, and making the 4.6 cooling circuit work per traditional style.. However... upon changing the water pump just now I realised there is no bypass return into it, nor is there a heater return? (was going to tee into bottom hose but would rather not make a DIY joint into a hose if I'm honest). So... I was thinking how the 'cows udder' external stat comes in different temp ratings and things, and does solves the above return issues so I was thinking to use it. I can only imagine it has a bad rep because it's plastic and eventually fails? Therefore, above stuff considered, I have sketched a circuit diagram and was wondering if anybody has experience if I am on the right track? I have looked into this a lot and not found a decisive scheme hence my post which probably seems like replaying the same record from others, for that I am sorry.. Few points; 1. Intend to blank the rear coolant fitting on the carb manifold - is this ok? There is a steel fitting on the front of the manifold, which I think is best for heater flow? 2. The carb manifold i have does not have a bypass port on the original thermostat housing - I will source one, assuming there is a corresponding hole in the manifold (carbs/mani was built for an MGB build by the PO) 3. As diagram, a 3-port cows udder thermostat from disco/P38 (need to check which), will solve both the heater return and bypass returns to the pump inlet. 4. With this arrangement I can valve off the heater circuit rather than use it as a bypass circuit, which is handy as I have the Smiths flat panel 'shin burner' style heater core which goes in the cabin and i will be summer driving mostly! 4. I might even be able to re-jig some original pipes with this layout! 5. I will get some early type rocker covers which have correct breather connections for the SU manifold Cheers, HH

Cheers FF. I am typing a post on it at the moment if you might have a ganders!

Hello, as it happens I am converting the other way round; 3.5 (carbs) manifold on a 4.6.. the 4.6 uses an external thermostat per the image from smallfry, this external stat receives heater return and pump bypass. your 3.5 efi managed this from ports on the manifold. so you’ll need to tee the heater return into the bottom rad pipe, and route bypass as mentioned above. heater flow is fed from front of manifold (red pipe item 10 in above diagram) though I must say I am tempted by the ‘cows udder’ external stat as a retrofit for a number of reasons; 1. different opening temp options to choose from 2. full bypass shutoff 3. It seems to annoy people 4.etc beers! HH

I’m sorry for old post resurrection, I have only just found this thread.. but I’m fairly sure that guy must’ve worked in a 6” pipe factory, where he welded 6” pipe, and only ever talked about what to do with all this 6” pipe. hee hee

Thanks both, fair shout on the thread location, but GEMS manual flywheels are ludicrous money, I’ve removed the flexplate so have the reluctor spare but feel like I’ll just fit a trigger wheels rv8 front pulley kit, I have also semi decided to go twin SU manifold & megajolt for ‘project build rev.1’ to keep the build in check… I can always sell the MJ to my turbo minis mates as they seem to like blow through carb builds for some reason…. (so do i)

Hello, long time stalker here, before I press the button on this MS purchase I thought it best to ask the hive mind if my plan is sound if possible? , in a nutshell; 4.6 bog standard 80k miles gems, probably wants a new cam & followers & timing gear microsquirt with 8 foot tails, built for edis8 & terminate into all gems sensors Find an EDIS8 and make it drive factory gems coils, wasted spark batch fire the gems coils try and put the gems flexplate 36-1 reluctor ring onto a manual flywheel & use the factory VR fail at the above and buy a front pulley 36-1 kit and put that on build & install all fuel pump circuits & main supplies relay circuits etc my only downside to this is that I probably cannot steal somebody’s developed MS2 map as I’m guessing Microsquirt isn’t ‘that identical’ to the MS2 that most people here use, even though it’s ms2 based, at least I can copy the values for, the tables over so not that scared by it. I do believe edis8 will drive the gems coils, but it is in the maybe pile until I test it, for me it would be nice to reuse gems coils due to packaging reasons, I won’t be going in mud (heathen!!!) I intend to start a pic heavy build thread soon, I’m rebuilding an period styled 80” coiler, half the front panels are stripped for paint and the 4.6 arrived last week, so squirt and spark is my last big ticket item left to buy, hence my nooby sounding questions!! regards harry

To answer the OP; yes you need the FW redrilled for a 9,1/2” clutch, you’ll need the clutch type to suit your box (200tdi), series clutch has wrong splines for LT77. it is okay that the FW is close to the Milner cast housing per ‘smallfry’ you’ll need the gearbox input shaft spigot adapter available from eBay etc for circa £100, beers

Understood and thank you, bits mentioned above arriving in the post as we speak, it’s all going into an 80” hence the compactness is required, thread to follow!! HH

Hello, rather than create new I’d like to contribute to this thread for future info I’m in the same situation; adapter, 4.6 v8, LT77, must buy/make spigot adapter, must buy & redrill v8 FW. Just wondering if the 60mm adapter means the clutch isn’t so far on the LT77 input splines? Assume not as nobody mentions it in their conversions? Also cutting the crank down for the spigot adapter, hmm don’t know how to make the cut square to the crank axis without removing it; or is it just a concentric ring but that’s being removed?? (v8 arriving on a pallet today so am being preemptive / exited) also ordered Microsquirt - that will be a different thread! hoped to find an owners build thread with all the info but no go yet Cheers! Harry