reb78
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Posts posted by reb78
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Gents,
If you havent read my last post I am ready to put my rebilt 200tdi into the chassis.
It was originally a 2.5 TD with basic glow plugs for starting.
After working on my old fellas disco a while ago I discovered that the 300TDi uses a glow plug / preheat relay for starting which also keeps the glow plugs powered for a further 5-10 seconds after starting.
I would like to fit a similar system on my 200TDi for optimum starting.
Has anyone else fitted the above arrangement before?
If so what components will I need to rob at the scrappies from a Disco donor?
Again as always your advice and information is greatly appreciated.
best regards
G
Like i said in answer to the other post - You dont really need one. My 200tdi starts fine without the glow plugs even in the winter over here and as i've wired it up like the TD, i can always pre-heat on the key if i wanted to. Dont worry about it for now. Fit the engine, see how you go and fit it later if you need it.
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Gents,
I will soon be ready to drop my rebuilt 200TDi into the chassis and the lump when I bought it came without a starter motor or alternator.
The old 2.5 TD is still sitting with all these components and I wondered if they were interchangeable?
I'm also just transferring the wiring loom and wondered that if the above aren't transferable are the multiplugs still the same for use?
Answers as always greatly appreciated.
Cheers
G
The alternator and the starter are compatible with both engines. The wiring from the TD will pretty much plug straight onto the tdi. the differences are you will have to use the 'other' connector to the temp sender (at the back of the engine rather than the front as on the TD and there is a glow plug relay on the tdi, which you probably dont have with your new engine. It is ok to wire the glow plugs up on the tsi as they were ont he TD so that you control them manually rahter than through a timer relay.
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Isn't there a little foam-type seal inside behind the flange to stop oil migrating up the splines?
Maybe it's failed or missing?
There is normally a felt washer in there.
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You seem intent on changing the chassis whatever. If you buy correctly there really should be no need and you'll have ~£2000 more to spend on servicing fully or a better vehicle in the first place. My 110 is 20 years old and as a whole the chassis is good (and thats not because its been really well looked after either) so the stuff you're looking at should be much better.
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You need to check the levers are re-connected (if they disconnected them) and that they are adjusted properly. I'd remove the panel under the centre seat/cubby and have a good look that the levers are working and that the switch is moveable.
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Sorry, for not being clear. There are NO cars that have the correct one here...
What I want is particulars of what cars in the UK use them, so that I can get one out of the UK. There is no problem for me buying stuff in the UK. I just need to make sure in advance that it will fit as returning the alternator because it is wrong is not possible.
There are lots of Mondeos with different engines and different alternators. A year and engine size and someone that has seen one fitted would be really handy.
Well for a change the search button worked. These may be of interest. The last one might be most interesting to you....
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=40900&view=&hl=mondeo&fromsearch=1
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=36742&view=&hl=mondeo&fromsearch=1
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=32339&st=0&p=314504&hl=granada&fromsearch=1entry314504
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Would love to see pics of this 5.5K motor.
I suspect someone is seriously at it!!
Should have put that up to begin with perhaps!
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I thought it was a tad expensive, but wanted to see what others thought. Perhaps i'll give it a miss at that price.
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So after way too much effort trying to find a larger alternator here in Canada to fit the stock location, I'm still at a bust..... Early 90's VWs have a 90 amp one that is close, but it fouls the water pump.
If anyone has fitted one from another vehicle that they know fits...could you let me know the year and model you got it from.
Thanks.
I thought Ford Mondeo and Granada ones fitted? Seem to remember a post about this ages ago (although i suppose you dont have them in Canada, so not a lot of help!)
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Hi all,
I'm usually on the defender forum, but just thougth i'd pop over here and ask a quick question. I'd really like a RRC (i'm bored with my 5 series as my long distance driver and would like another land rover). There's a very nice RRC 4.2 LSE softdash on LPG near me. Just had a couple of questions i thought i'd ask the experts....
1. Do these engines have any common problems when run on LPG?
2. Its up for £5450 (done 115K and looks in good condition) - does this seem a reasonable price?
Cheers
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Is it actually coming from higher up? There are two semi circular seals at the front and back of the head where the rocker cover bolts on. I had a problem with the rear one of these and Les pointed mein its direction in another post. I'd check these (they should be sealed in with a little bit of liquid sealant) and change the rocker cover gasket first as i'd have thought these are more likely culprits than the head gasket without any other signs of a head gasket failure.
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But with a car park full of mates taking the tiddle I told him I was driving home with the landrover as it was and getting my moneys worth as I wasnt wanting to look a T*** changing them infront of P*** taking mates!..
Sorry fella, but i think you have your answer here. If you didnt want to pay the £60, you should have offered to change the plates there and then regardless of your mates. If you'd offered to, that might have settled things there, but you told them you weregoing to carry on driving it as it was when they wanted to fine you. I doubt you'll get the fine dismissed.
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Thanks, very helpful. Will contact Devon first for spares, I did buy the unit from them.
Cheers
Marco
Oh, just to add to the above, there are 2 seals IIRC plus the orange bearing that need replacing. The 'heavyduty' ones are like those that seal the transfer box where the gearvox mainshaft enters and they are placed face to face, not back to back. You will know what i mean when you take it apart!
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Hi,
Just back from a trip to Italy, my GKN overdrive does transfer oil into the transfer box and I do have to fill it up every xxx miles... Trying to get rid of this leak (and the one at the intermediate shaft), will probably replace bearing and seal as suggested in this post (last year) http://forums.lr4x4....st=#entry267771
Main question, part numbers. Does somebody has a parts list / exploded view image like the LR parts catalogue available?
Cheers
Marco
I've never seen one, but i had to do the exact same thing about a year ago (i should have taken photos, but got so fed up with it i just didnt bother in the end). I took the OD apart completely and replaced all seals and gaskets. Feel free to PM me if you need any advice and i'll try and remember what went where. Devon 4x4 are also very helpful and stock all of the spares you will needt o do the above. They sell a 'heavyduty' seal which they advise fitting to solve this as well as the sealed (orange) bearing that needs to be replaced.
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This thread
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=45091&st=0
came up a while ago and might contain some useful links/info.
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if the engine is pulling fuel out of the tank then shouldnt it be creating a vacume rather than pressurising the tank? surley the ball in the cap is only to let air in and thats why it has a spring behind it?
You also have a return to the tank from the spill pipes on the top of the injectors. If it pulls air in as it moves fuel to the front and returns fuel to the tank, you get a pressurised tank (If the ball wont allow it to vent out again, just in if it is corroded). Also, as fuel heats slightly, it will create pressure, probably more noticeable on petrol engines.
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These filler caps have a vent, a ball held down by a spring, built into them. Sounds like yours has jammed shut. They aren't easily fixed, but you could try giving it a soak in petrol followed by a very good shake.
I don't like the drilled hole idea much though ...
Yep. What errol said. Take the cap apart clean it, oil it, soak it etc to try and free up the vent. I had this problem - the fuel tak pressurised so much that it created a fuel block effectivley and the vehicle would stall as if it were starved of fuel (which it was effectivley).
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Les has written an excellent post in the tech archive with all you need to know for this. Have a look in there.
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I'd replace it regardless - its pennies compared to the cost and time if it snaps. You wont see it properly and be able to examine it properly throught that hole. Thats really for setting/checking the timing on the FIP.
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cracked pistons???
oh great, it just keeps getting worse!
how can i tell if they are cracked?
CURLY
You'll know when you take the head off to do the valve seals! It is a common problem on this engine. Towards the end, my TD air filter was absolutely soaked with oil after about 1000 miles after a filter change. After a motorway journey, it would pour oil out of the filter housing as it was breathing so heavy. Your crankcase vent hasnt been modified to run somewhere other than the air filter housing has it? That would explain the lack of oil on the filter (a rare occurence for these engines once they have covered a few miles from wht i've read!).
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probably about 2 or 3 mm..
IF you want to spend any money on it and try another turbo, my old one from my TD is in good nick. PM me if any use.
One thing i would say (although you are using an awful lot of oil) is that these engines will go on in this state for ages. My old TD has a broken piston and or ring or 2 or 3 or 4 and it still drove and worked reliably. If you want a tdi, take your time, get all the bits and dont change the engine till all the parts are in place to do it easily.
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You can take up the backlash by adjusting the allen screw onthe top of the box. Have a look here:
http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38210&highlight=
Like i said in the above post, the adjustment should be made with the wheels jacked and straight ahead as if you do it with them on a lock, you will create a tight spot in the straight ahead position. I think the other important thing is that the reat of the steering system, track rod ends, ball joints, drop arm nut, wheel bearings and swivel bearings and UJs in the steering column need to be checked for play before adjusting the box.
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Thanks Steve, It looks like I will need to get some new new stays manufactured.
Is there anyone out there with a 200/300TDi that can comment on where the stays are connected to the chassis rails?
Regards
Grant
On a 110 they attach on the deep point of the curve of the chassis rail on the bottom edge. Not sure on a 90 though.
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Just a thought, but are all of the exhaust rubbers present/in good condition - vibrations here might cause your symptoms.
2.5 TD components that will fit a 200TDi
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Not sure, but i'm sure Ralph will come along later with all the part numbers you need.
The way i understand it, they (land rover) created the 200tdi so that it would work with the 19J loom. Therefore, i'd get hold of a 19J loom and use this as you can be sure it is compatible oin both the engine end and the bulkhead end.