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reb78

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Everything posted by reb78

  1. Just give up Peaklander. Its not worth worrying about.
  2. https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/optimill-defender-wing-mirror-arms-with-puddle-lamps
  3. And in these later autos, they often need to be at certain temps too.
  4. Thats interesting as many declare the 200 heads scrap once they see those cracks between the valves. I kept mine.
  5. Same - the last one i removed was a lot worse but it wasn't due to those cracks that my HG went. Engine was running perfectly. I would happily fit the head in alfamans pictures.
  6. Same, plus a couple of good spare heads. Tbh - I too one off with cracks between the valves and think they were incidental findings when the HG went so would be tempted to put that head back on if I was desparate.
  7. @ashtrans I suggest you speak to Dave directly. Always quick to reply to email and plenty of people there to answer the phone. He is also on here.
  8. VB's work is very good too. I can vouch for that. He rebuilt Ralphs overdrive if folk want other opinions to mine.
  9. Tbh, if the rear seal isnt leaking, I would leave it. Do you mean front or rear crank seal is leaking ? If rear, genuine.
  10. Valeo are good. Had a disaster with a borg and beck where the centre of the friction plate fell apart, I wasnt impressed. Never seen the need to spend more than valeo cost.
  11. Bristol Transmissions. Built me a stumpy R380 from them at a very reasonable price and its been spot on.
  12. I hate my nanocom. Its a shame GAP dont cover the TD5. When nanocom decides it wont connect to the D2 ten times in a row, i go grab the hawkeye (also discontinued) from the range rover and it connects first time and does the job. I only bought the hawkeye as it was cheaper than getting the cable and licence to upgrade the nanocom for the RR (and since I hated the nanocom anyway I was happy enough to get the hawkeye) .
  13. Sorry - I misunderstood you. Yes, I agree - I suspect very different parts internally. The boxes are different shapes completely so I cant see there being common parts in there really.
  14. 4 and 6 bolt are a straight swap (inc drop arms appropriate for each). My 110 started life with a 6 bolt but it got a bit wandery so i bought a new 4 bolt from adwest in the days when they were reasonably priced. I dont recall doing anything other than unbolting one and bolting the new up.
  15. I run 28psi front and 36psi rear unloaded, 42psi+ if loaded or towing on the rear (depends on what i am pulling/carrying). For me the 28psi on the front took a bit of experimentation - best steering feel and wear acheived at that pressure. Mine are BFG ATs 265/75/16
  16. My amp is in the battery box and I have a 10inch sub mounted into the rear of a custom made cubby box. The front speakers can be specced up in size with spacers made of MDF - this brings them out and so allows an increase in diameter and depth of speaker (I have 4 inch 2 ways in the front) but be careful of knee room. For the rear, those mudstuff offerings just seemed ridiculous - they put the speakers low down and ready to get muffled by luggage and covered in rubbish. So I made speaker boxes to fit into the rear corners of the roof and have 6 inch three ways in there. Its a nice setup. None of the 'normal' speakers are that big so not bassy but the sub does that once you have it setup properly and the fader balanced as you want.
  17. I have RRC seats in my 110, which I think makes it about the same as a 90 with the bulkhead removal bar? I am 6ft. Not sure that helps but they are a lot deeper than the standard seat and I fit in fine. I am not the slimmest and not the biggest person you will ever meet. Decidedly average really... Is that a tablet or a modern head unit replacement in there?
  18. I don't know if this helps, but its almost as if there is incomplete combustion until you get going? I say this as I can get something like your signs if I am running on SVO and I mess around for too long with the engine idling when cold. I try not to do it but on the odd occasion where I do (hitching up a trailer or something), when I do then go to pull away, I create a smokescreen like battleships used in WW2 to mask their exact positions from enemy ships, and then when that clears it runs absolutely fine. I imagine this is burning off unburnt fuel. Its bad for the engine so I avoid situations where it happens when on SVO and try to just start and go (initial run if from home is straight up a 1 i n6 road for a mile so its warm by the top) but occasionally its not possible to start and head straight off.
  19. I am sure I spoke to Pete Bell years ago and he pretty much said not to bother. It was mostly around the fact that I wanted more top end. I have what I want at the bottom end which is where the VNT is most effective. Trade off with more top end is that you would need a bigger turbo and if it is not VNT I think that would have an effect at the bottom of the rev range. So I think what we need for both is a bigger VNT turbo that is properly controlled...
  20. Double Post. Please delete
  21. I don't know. We had a claim with LV one year (other half in the D2) and another with Cornish Mutual (I did a fairground ride impression on a wet M4 in our BMW one night near Swindon and hit everything going but walked away) and both were pretty good. Bought the D2 back but they valued the car at twice the amount I did and I put it back on the road for £400 so we actually made money out of that accident. The BMW... the loss adjuster was speechless that i got out of the car and walked away having seen in it (the roof was the only thing not damaged). They paid up very quickly though, although about £1000 less than we wanted but not a lot I could do about it. All over five years ago now thankfully, but Cornish Mutual premiums have stayed the same with about ten pounds of the previous years premiums for years.
  22. I agree that none are good for you, but i have heard bad stories about 2k nearly killing people
  23. But 2k needs more expensive and involved respiration gear??
  24. Haha. No worries. No sag at all on mine but I would say that if its the backing and not just the liner then i would attach (either bond to the back or even screw) some ali strips across the width of the backing on the side against the roof. Ali wont rot and would be strong enough IMO if supported in the middle by the fir tree fasteners. On mine, just renewing everything got it back to where it was supposed to be.
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