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reb78

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reb78 last won the day on October 9 2021

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  1. Just give up Peaklander. Its not worth worrying about.
  2. https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/optimill-defender-wing-mirror-arms-with-puddle-lamps
  3. And in these later autos, they often need to be at certain temps too.
  4. Thats interesting as many declare the 200 heads scrap once they see those cracks between the valves. I kept mine.
  5. Same - the last one i removed was a lot worse but it wasn't due to those cracks that my HG went. Engine was running perfectly. I would happily fit the head in alfamans pictures.
  6. Same, plus a couple of good spare heads. Tbh - I too one off with cracks between the valves and think they were incidental findings when the HG went so would be tempted to put that head back on if I was desparate.
  7. @ashtrans I suggest you speak to Dave directly. Always quick to reply to email and plenty of people there to answer the phone. He is also on here.
  8. VB's work is very good too. I can vouch for that. He rebuilt Ralphs overdrive if folk want other opinions to mine.
  9. Tbh, if the rear seal isnt leaking, I would leave it. Do you mean front or rear crank seal is leaking ? If rear, genuine.
  10. Valeo are good. Had a disaster with a borg and beck where the centre of the friction plate fell apart, I wasnt impressed. Never seen the need to spend more than valeo cost.
  11. Bristol Transmissions. Built me a stumpy R380 from them at a very reasonable price and its been spot on.
  12. I hate my nanocom. Its a shame GAP dont cover the TD5. When nanocom decides it wont connect to the D2 ten times in a row, i go grab the hawkeye (also discontinued) from the range rover and it connects first time and does the job. I only bought the hawkeye as it was cheaper than getting the cable and licence to upgrade the nanocom for the RR (and since I hated the nanocom anyway I was happy enough to get the hawkeye) .
  13. Sorry - I misunderstood you. Yes, I agree - I suspect very different parts internally. The boxes are different shapes completely so I cant see there being common parts in there really.
  14. 4 and 6 bolt are a straight swap (inc drop arms appropriate for each). My 110 started life with a 6 bolt but it got a bit wandery so i bought a new 4 bolt from adwest in the days when they were reasonably priced. I dont recall doing anything other than unbolting one and bolting the new up.
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