Disco-Ron
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Posts posted by Disco-Ron
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Pin hole in fuel pipe between tank and lift pump, allowing fuel to flow back to the tank,creating an air pocket in the pipe, you won't see much in the way of signs of a leak as the pipe isn't pressurized...
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There's a guy in Salisbury on eBay that sells some sort of resistor to improve fan speed, I fitted it on mine and my truck gets toasty warm....
that'll be simonb on here, I've got one in my 110 too, works well,
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Well I'm not sure what else holds it in place then! Maybe shortening the rad hoses would help!
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I had an x brake and hated it,not designed for use when winching, and I couldn't stop mine rattling/chinking, drove me nuts, went back to drum and am glad I did!
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Because the engine and gearbox and props are still attached. I don't think a screwdriver will give me enough leverage to shift all that? The jack will also hold it all in place whilst I nip the bolts back up.
But all you're trying to do is move the base of the mount, jacking the whole lot forward may not even achieve what you want!
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Call me daft, but if all you're trying to do is effectively move where the gearbox mounts are bolted up, why not just slacken the bolts, then use a drift/screwdriver to knock forward the bottom plate of the mount??
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Slop in the linkage can also mean its not getting fully engaged, I re bushes mine, and adjusted it, its fine now!
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For fuel to be going back to the tank like that you must have zn air leak somewhere either near, or on the filter housing. .
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I tend to engage it with the clutch down, (if I'm stationary) move the lever at the same time as lifting the clutch slightly to rotate the gears . .
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I had a 530 estate with this engine, and it was superb, wish i hadn't sold it......... just be aware of turbo issues, and be careful if you need to remove injectors...!
I had mine mapped, and it became epic..... thankfully it was a manual too, cos the autos have issues aswell!!
Looks like you may need to relocate the header tank in order to connect the snorkel, i assume you've also kept the filter inside the engine cover housing.... which means you could remove the one on the snorkel...???
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Just remember that if you jack up the back wheels, you effectively have no hand brake, I always chock both sides of the wheels on the axle I'm not jacking!
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Mine is inside the back door, I have it on an on/off/on switch, ie, on, off, or on when I select reverse! ;-)
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Gary, I think you're confusing land rovers, and modern engines, the 300 certainly isn't modern, and doesn't have hydraulic lifters.
As to the problem, it could possibly (but I doubt it) be that the tappets are too tight, do you lack power when hot too??
I always start with the simple things, do you have fuel at the pump when its hot? Is the solenoid opening correctly,
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I have a 300tdi 90, with 24 spline axles, i have adjusted my sterring lock for better turning circle as i compete in rtv trials, i use 7inch 0 offset modular wheels, with 235 85 tyres, and i am unable to get anymore lock, my caliper touches the axle casing before the tyres rub the radius arm, no one can quite work it out, but thats the way it is........ i have yet to have any CV issues, but time will tell!..... one thing i never do is use much throttle when on full lock......!
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shame about the incident, was there a good reason for trying to winch it out? There's just as much chance of bending the chassis by winching at that angle as it getting hit. .
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Is the flange onto the pinion tight?? You could get slight play there, there could be play in the planet gears, too. . you wouldn't be able to see that!
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If its been laid up i would suggest it might have a weak lifter pump, hence not getting enough fuel, esp if mis firing at higher rpm.....
my 300 has been tweaked, and i keep meaning to get round to checking the pump timing, as mine appears to 'pink' slightly on high throttle settings........ or maybe i'm just paranoid......... i've had my 90 up to three figures on a private track!
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Personally I'd go for more visible things, they won't see an alarm til a door opens. . . .
Removable steering wheel could make for an interesting drive, or not!
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When I did my own chassis swap, Paul was good enough to offer me advice / help over the phone if I needed it, which as it turned out I didn't, but not many people would offer to spend their time chatting knowing they would get nothing out of it!!
Hence, I recommend Paul!!!
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Double m, you may be aware already, but its a figure of 8 gate, you don't need to go to neutral to go in/out of diff lock . .
However, clutch should really always be used between hi and lo, even if stationary!
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Take it off and check the rotor perhaps??
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Could be all manner of things, but most likely fuel related, lift pump is another option!
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unfortunately whatever anyone tries to do to stop lanes being used wrongly /badly, you won't stop the idiot brigade, as they simply don't care!
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I can't believe people pay someone to fit windscreens, mine took a max of ten mine, its the easiest job known to man!
Defender weight
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
2 tonnes for one axle is easily enough, and even if you use two sets to support both axles, theoretically you could support 4tonnes, LOADS!!!!