Disco-Ron
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Posts posted by Disco-Ron
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The lift pump is on the block behind the injector pump..... it has the fuel pipes going in and out of it...... when disconnecting them, be aware they might have slight fuel pressure in them..... you don;t wanna be getting an eye full of diesel!!!!
I'd also check the air filter...... a mates truck did what you describe, and his filter had collapsed...!
Looking at that pic, i'm guessing someone fancies them selves as a plumber...LOL!!
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Sounds like the synchro ring is for some reason sticking on the synchro hub....... and only releasing when really warmed through...... tis a nightmare when it's one of those things that means it has to come right apart to see whats going on...... and even then, it might not be obvious...... worth fitting a new synchro ring whilst it;'s in bits anyway... as the fault is in that area somewhere......
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The intercooler is the same, they claim that the brackets are only used on the defender, as the coler cannot move when trapped infront of a disco rad...... not sure about pipes, if it's coming with hoses, i'm sure you could make it work til you get the right bits once you know what you need....
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there's not a grerat deal of room, what with the spare wheel carrier bolts and reinforcement, and rear wiper motor.....
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This X-Brake has caused me more grief.
I purchased the brake earlier this year but never got around to fitting it. When I was at Billing I went to the X-Eng stand and purchased the reccomended 200Tdi cable to complete the instalation. I made it crystal clear that my vehicle is a 300 series LHD V8 Discovery with R380 box etc.
Perhaps there is are different versions of a 200 Tdi cable because the one I purchased from X-Eng will not fit without first having it modified and making extra brackets etc.
I'm not 100% certain of the problem yet because I haven't seen the car, but Gordon called me yesterday to say that they needed to make extra brackets etc to support the cable and make it fit through the floor.
So on top of the purchase price for the X-Brake I have had to pay my work shop an extra 125 quid to take out the center console, make a bracket, faff around with 2lb hammers on the floor seam that was interferring with the mountings etc.
It doesn't say anything about this in the instructions for the 'export' version.
I'd donate my left nut to science if anyone can fit one of these things to a Discovery from scratch in 45 minutes.
Well, if they're charging you 'extra' for removing the centre consol, they shouldn;t be, as they more than likely would have had to remove that anyways to change the cable...... and as far as the handbrake lever goes, i simply used one from a 200......... and drilled another hole in the tunnel......
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A alittle movement is not uncommon, to replace the bearing is quitea simple job, esp if the box is not in the vehicle.... basically, remove flange, inside there's a biog circlip, remove, and then extract the output shaft complete with bearing......
All thats from memory, so please feel free to correct me....!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Can anybody honestly say they have fitted an x brake in 45 mins?
It doesn't count if you have a 4 post lift and all the tools to hand.
It took me longer than that to work out exactly how to fit a '200' handbrake, to my '300'...... had to drill a fresh hole through the tunnel.... and source a 200 cable the right length..... you wouldn't believe how much they vary........
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When i fitted mine, it cleared, however, i get an annoying clonk sometimes when i start the truck, one day i'll take it off and find that persuader..... ie, hammer!!!
Works well though..... although to be honest, i'm not keen on the fact that the intrusctions say.....'not designed to be winched against'........ so, basically whenever you use your own truck to recover someone else, you need to be sat in the truck, with your foot on the footbrake, not stood in front of the truck operating the winch..... fine if there are two of you, but not ideal if you're on your own....
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Hello people
A friend of mine rang me today and asked if i could have a look at his disco,
It seems as if the power steering has stopped working and your just turning the wheel with out the assist.
I had a look at the normal stuff i.e
Level of pas oil
oil leaks etc
Belt still on the pully
All seems fine
So am guessing its going to be the pump or box anyone any idea what one to change first or if there could be somthing else?
Thanks
Pump is the more likely option........ boxes tend to just leak!
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Where did you get the prop, & what prop did you use? I understand that 200tdi shafts are diff length to 300tdi ones.
I got my rear prop from QT services, if you order one, ask them how long it will take before you place the order though... mine took a while and they didnl;t warn me,...!!!
they do the wide angle prop with flange for the 300tdi....
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how do you know?
Well done...
Well, i fitted a 4bolt flange to mine, along with a wide angle prop, didn't tighten the bolt properly, and it leaks oil...... i only realised about the preload etc last night on the phone to a mate..... i'll get another seal and re-do it i think.....
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probably best to renew the prop then. Is it easy enough to chanhe from 3 bolt drive flange to the 4bolt config?
Good luck getting the 3 bolt flange off..... i ended up literally grinding the outside of the flange off simply to get the centre bit out to get to the nut... you'll know what i mean when you try it..... also, make sure you torque the bolt up properly when you';ve got the 4 bolt flange on...... otherwise the preload on the pinion shaft is messed up...... And the oil comes out.... ask me how i know!!!
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BBC - sounds good, look forward to meeting you all - strangely enough someone mentioned you today at OEC - i dont know who the chap is (yet) but has a red 90 on a glav chassis, was there when i dropped off my 90 to have the starter sorted as i'm tool-less.
I can safely say to anyone thinking if using U-Drive for van hire, DONT! I turned up this morning as arranged (only yesterday!) to be told i wasnt allowed a van with a towbar because of their insurance.....why they didnt mention this yesterday when i booked it in person and went through every detail i dont know, long and short of it was no van, a very unhappy SMO and a nightmare move (think 90 on trailer..."van load" of stuff and an A3....fun and games!), thanks U-Drive, you b******s!
Mate, i know the people that own U Dirve, tell me which depot it was, and when you rang, and i'll try to get a message to them..... feedback is all important in a business..>!!!!
Good luck in your new job...!!!
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The donuts don;t even like a 2 inch lift, let alone huge amounts of articulation!!
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Just think what you could save on recovery truck bills, keep the disco, fit a towbar, and buy a car trailer..... that should be justification for keeping it.....
Only joking mate.... sounds like a nice collection!!!
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There's no mentipon of the tracking being out..... someones probably fitted a new joint onto the drag link, and not thought about the steering wheel thing..... do as per the 1st reply.
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I hope you oiled the nuts and bolts... cos you'll be doing it again soon enough.......... the donuts don;t like lifted trucks....... the angle you're asking it to work at is a long way from what it was designed for........
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I did this job 3 months ago but i changed the prop all together and got rid of the donut. i found even the LR donut part was useless after a decent off road session, But to answer your question its 8 nuts/bolts and even if you have to take the prop off its an easy job.
duncan
I think you'll find it's six nuts and bolts....
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Lovely to see Maob, and land rovers being used there, i was in Moab at the nd of June, and did hells revenge ina hummer...... i love the place, i can only dream of taking my truck over ther, i'd love to, but i could have a three weeks 'vacation' for the cost of shipping just the truck.......
It's one of my favourite places on the planet....!!!
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just taken my intercooler off and it was dipping oil is it ok thery seem a lot of it
thanks foxy
It's normal for there to be mist in there..... and a lot of people clean them regularly.....l
i'd only worry if there was lots in there myself...
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Well, i got the 'kit' from QT services along with the rear prop, the seal they supplied with the flange would surely be the right one..... i got another one the same part number...... i did wonder if that might be the issue though.....
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I have recently lifted my 300disco, and have done away with the rubber donut on the rear prop, when i fitted the four bolt flange, i fitted a new seal, which started leaking straight away..... so i fitted another, very carefully.... leaking again...... should i be using some sealant or something.... but the leak appears to be around the shaft... not the diff housing.... i'm baffled.... even considering getting a 4 pin recon diff, to kind of kill 2 birds with one stone....
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thanks dougie, Guess I have my day planned for Monday then, can't get any rivets till then
..oh well, hopefully wd40 will work for me, i'm greenlaning tomorrow...think I'd better keep a recovery strap hooked on It'd defo the sideways movement in the lever mechanism, the 'steel' shaft is in an 'aluminium' housing..... you can guess the rest, the aluminium corrodes slightly, the steel rusts a little, and voila, one seized lever..... be very careful if you do get it in the vice, the casing is the weak link..... break it and you're stuffed.!!!tap the shaft gently..... wd40 it first.... then pray!!
..oh well, hopefully wd40 will work for me, i'm greenlaning tomorrow...think I'd better keep a recovery strap hooked on
Replacement chassis - galvanise or paint?
in International Forum
Posted
Such a shame no-one seems to make a discovery chassis, as i wanna swap mine, in fact, i've already bought a s/h chassis, but have been wondering how to get round the number issue..... it seems i can't.......