Llanigraham

Check the aerial isn't leaking onto the lamp wiring.

Fairly easy. Which engine?

Plastic ones are still made. Think the place near Worcester (M&M??) were advertising some, and there used to be an accessory place near Stoke that did them.

VCU support bearings?

Check the earth leads on the starter. Check the condition of the ignition barrel, as there are faults being reported with them.

Yes it is driven by the belt.

Doubt it.

Used to work on old Ford radios, but not any more.

If you disconnect the battery you will need the code fro the radio to work again. Available from your local LR dealer, but they may want prooof the vehicle is yours.

Possibly. Try and have a look at the LR fog light kit as that will give you an idea.

Td4 engine is the BMW engine, which has a cam chain that shouldn't need changing. Only things to check are EGR valves, but this can be removed. Generally not a problem engine. Check all windows work as cables do break. If buying from a dealer check the service records are up to date. IRD is the bit that transfers and splits the drive from the gearbox to front and rear. VCU is the Freelander magic box that sends lots of drive to the rear wheels when the front ones slip. Look underneath, roughly in the middle, for a big black thing with 2 support bearings on the prop shaft. Grumbling noise from the middle is probably the VCU suppport bearings, which can go eventually. Knocking from the rear is normally the front support for the rear diff. Join the Freelander Club and come and get it MUDDY

Colin, sorry but you have to buy the front section of the prop complete.

There is only one tow bar listed for the Freelanders, so get it, and make sure you get ALL the bolts that go with it, 9 I think!

No, they are an aftermarket supplier.

No way am I going to deride you for that video, it is excellent, and should be posted on ALL the forums. I hope you don't mind if I link it to the Freelander forum? Excellent music too. I think Runrig are great, considering I'm a Welshman!!

Does your mate have a Freelander2? This "story" has been on a few sites but I don't think he is getting very far with it, and it doesn't seem to be a fault that is common. Certainly not been mentioned on the FL Club site. If your mate has a Freelander1 pre facelift model, I would suggest he checks the condition of the wiring below the gear lever. It is a fairly common fault that the wires snap or pull out of the switch. It is also worth checking whether the brake light switch is working properly, but this seems to be affecting post facelift models more. Edit: Just read the article again and perhaps he is talking about FL1, but it isn't very plain and very misleading having the photo of FL2 at the top. However, if the wires are broken or the brake switch faulty it doesn't make the car slow down quickly, it just makes all the pretty lights show!! I have a feeling he bought a car his wife didn't want and then couldn't get rid of ,so is looking for problems.

The wires often break at the switch. Just resolder them in. Breaking the wires disables the HDC, and doesn't leave a fault light on.

Don't worry about it, it is just a characturist of the vehicle

Streets of Malta.......................... bang, crash, rattle rattle, or have things improved?

No, but as for the noise, have you checked the condition of the anti roll bar drop links?

Following a change in the Law recently it is now illegal to sell solid metal "front protection systems", which is why you can't find one. The only ones you can now get are the soft plastic type.

There was for the old L series diesel, but not heard of one for the Td4. Most people say they are very good, especially with the Fuel Burning Heater as well. In the recent cold spell mine has been hot within 6 miles. Are you sure your thermostat is working properly?

Have you tried lubricating the mechanism??

1st post and you do nothing but knock what is not and cannot be LR's problem........ This could have happened to any car of any make!!

Don't know. Can't you borrow one to find out first?