ian_s
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Posts posted by ian_s
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I guess my technique of just holding my breath is probably not right?
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Another Ben Fogle book here, plus a repaired starter motor for my series3
it may yet live!
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on my series with a 200tdi, the axle doesnt get anywhere near the pulley. that could be because i raised the mount on the chassis when i fitted the engine.
I originally had a defender tdi in, which has the lower injection pump, so i changed the drivers side engine mount. when i did it i measured between the axle and bump stops, and made sure the engine was high enough to clear.
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the biggest pains in fitting a 200 tdi to a series (with the turbo) is the exhaust and intercooler, and if you are fitting the turbo you will have the same issues anyway so you may as well go the whole hog.
i think fitting a V8 would be even more work again, but as FF says its probably the most fun the drive. i find my Tdi Series 3 can be a little unpredictable in the wet, if the turbo starts to spool up in the middle of a corner it can easily go brown and pear shaped very quickly
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if you try and drive and you hear grinding, put the transfer box into neutral and try again, if the noise goes it might not be the main gearbox, although the lack of load might make the noise go.
try driving in difflock, does it now move?
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could you fit some kind of removable cap over the top so it spends most of its time protected from the elements?
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looks like a flat plane crank to me
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i had to bend the high/low lever on mine as it was hitting the tunnel. in that video that lever looks very close to the lip on the bulkhead? does it touch it?
check your engine mounts, make sure you haven't pushed the engine forward if (like me) you got a bit angry when the clutch wouldn't line up!
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I had thought of just using an inverted length of angle but I'm going around in circles on this because I can't see me pulling a loaded engine crane over a raised guide.
make the track removable, for those rare times you need it.
drill some holes down into the floor, and weld some round bar to the inside of the inverted V so that it slides down into the holes. once the doors are closed the track wont be able to move, but once open there will be nothing by gravity holding it place.
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unless you are going to remove the rear drive shafts as well, i don't see how you will get any sort of improvement
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more than double normally
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why can i never find bargains like that? when i needed to replace the one on my little boats fore stay it cost me about £20, and it was smaller than those look
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so you had the same problem with the old and the new alternator? to me that rules out the alternator being at fault, i'd be more inclined to think its the wiring to the switch that's the issue. where does the switch take its feed from? if that voltage is different to the voltage being put out by the alternator, the light might glow if it is sensitive enough.
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I slightly disagree, the 200 disco engine fits perfectly, but if you use the 300 manifolds, it leaves the exhaust pointing straight down alongside the engine mount, and it's a doddle to fit the exhuast - nothing to slip round the side of the bulkhead and starter motor. My 109 is done this way, and the 88 will be getting swapped over when it's new chassis time. The 300 turbo is also better connected
i hadn't realized the 300 tdi manifolds were an option!
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having had both a disco 200 tdi and a defender 200tdi in my series 3, i know first hand the advantages of both.
the 300tdi would be (i think) a lot more work and require fabrication of engine mounts.
i think the best thing to do (which is what i now have) is to get a discovery 200tdi, but with Defender manifolds and turbo. it makes the exhaust much easier to make, and the discovery timing case has much better clearance than the defender one and means you can keep the standard series chassis mount.
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as soon as you start welding new bits onto the chassis it becomes modified, and you *could* lose your 5 points, it would depend on the person doing the checking and their interpretation of the rules
when i was reading up on this stuff a while ago i decided that i'd lose points on anything that wasnt a bolt-on replacement. so changing the axles on my series to coiler axles but using leaf springs would mean cutting and welding brackets on the axle case, so that would lose points. but upgrading my drum brakes to the larger 11" drums which was just a nut and bolt change was OK. the same for fitting parabolic leaf springs, they just bolt on with no mods needed, so the suspension part stays the same.
the engine i'm not sure on. it's still an inline, 4 cylinder diesel of similar capacity (less than 10% difference). it's quite clear that the 200 tdi descends from the 2.25 engines, the blocks are remarkably similar. i assume i've lost the points there though
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i use an old 2 litre coke bottle with a
bodged upcunningly crafted adapter for a short length of garden hose for filling my diffs.the garden hose just about fits through the fillers, and i just hold the bottle and squeeze it. it makes it fairly easy to get a measured amount in too.
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you are running bigger tyres than standard, do you correct your mileage for the difference in sizes?
if you havent corrected it, bigger tyres mean you are covering more distance than your odometer actually reads, so your MPG might be better than you think
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probably a strop around one of the wheel spokes?
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are you sure there isnt an air leak in the fuel system? if the engine is cranking over well, with good compression and your glow plugs are working, the answer must be fuel related.
when its cold, undo the injector pipes and and try cranking, fuel should spurt out almost immediately
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i did eventually connect mine up when my old tdi engine got difficult to start. i had them wired to a separate push button though.
when i changed the engine i never connected them up again
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i tested the wastegate on my tdi by attaching a bike tire pump to it and pumping carefully. it took a bit of faffing to get the hoses to seal well enough but it worked in the end
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out of curiosity, did you notice what the temps were at idle after the run? do they drop down to near ambient?
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the paper part has long been redundant, it doesnt matter whats on it, they wont believe it and only trust what their database says. i need to update my address on my license, i think i'll wait til 2015 now!
Two or Four post lift
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
for a pro working day in, day out, i guess the decision between 2 and 4 post needs to rest on what their business needs. or if they have the space, both.
For an amateur like myself, its a 4 post or no post at all, i just don't have the experience balancing and placing the arms to put myself (or anyone else) under a 2 post.
I've used 4 posts a fair bit, and with a bit of ingenuity I've dropped both axles off my series 3, dropped a gearbox out of my dads old RRC, and dropped the rear subframe out of a jaguar xj6 s3. all would have been easier on a 2 post, but a lot safer on a 4 post.