ian_s
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Posts posted by ian_s
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some people have far too much time on their hands to write things like that!
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get some mates to hang off the high side while you tighten the bolts up
years ago in an attempt to sort out the lean on mine i put a bottle jack between the chassis and axle on the low side, jacked it til it leaned the other way and tightened it up. thinking back that must have put an immense strain on the bushes.
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i'm a little suprised that no one has mentioned that if you move the pumpkin on the front axle to the middle, it may interfere with the sump on the engine?
as you've changed the engine this may not matter.
but then it now looks like you arent doing that anyway!
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i think the pro comps may be too stiff when used with multi-leaf springs, but if you are planning to load it up a lot you may still need them to control the weight, and go for gas dampers so they wont overheat so quickly
i wouldnt be worried about the off road performance, it sounds like anything you are planning to do will be tame, and slow speed. so the dampers will have little effect.
i would be more concerned about how the dampers work at speed, for prolonged periods.
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while you have the rad out, try and flush the insides out too, it could be blocked internally.
also change your thermostat while it's drained, that might not be opening fully.
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are your tires catching on anything on full lock? that could give you the juddering feel, and if its catching on bodywork then might give you the clicking sound too.
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just what part of that is from 1959????
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try just slackening the bolts, bouncing it around for a while then tighten them back up only when the vehicle is level
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if on one side the spring is compressed more, it will be flatter which has the effect of move the axle a little bit rearwards on that side, could that be your problem?
what make springs have you got?
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IIRC early RRC's had the rear shocks going in different directions, one side angled forward, one angled rearward, apparently done to do reduce axle tramp.
as for your CCV truck, if it works OK at the moment, and the shocks dont bind on articulation, then leave it as it is
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the flasher in my S3 is very sensitive to voltage, if the battery is a bit low they don't flash at all.
it sounds to me that if its flashing fast with only 1 bulb attached, the relay is knackered. more bulbs should make it flash faster, not slower.
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well, my renewal date has come, and after a quick ringround i have decided that Frank Pickles wont be getting my renewal money, Academy will!
apart from the fact that i really dont want to deal with a company that might dump me come my next renewal, they were 10% cheaper!
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have you posted on v8 forum about this?
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i just had a bit of a shock - my insurance with Frank Pickles expires in a few weeks.
i get an email from them, open it up... to find a renewal quote!
it appears that they arent getting rid of all 4x4 business!
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i've been thinking about this over the last few days, and the more i think about it the more it seems to me like if you could safely divert the injector pulses, this could work.
i would deactivate the inner 2 cylinders. if you did the outer 2, they will cool down more while they are deactivated and so when they are reactivated, they would be less efficient for a while. deactivating the inner two means the outer two will help to maintain heat in the middle of the block.
the actual deactivation i think could be done with just a single solenoid on each injector pipe, fitted via a t-piece to act as a pressure relief valve. they would have to be able to withstand the pressures provided by the IP during normal running, but when opened would provide an alternative path, offering almost zero resistance and so not allowing the pressure to build high enough to open the injectors. you would then divert the fuel back to the fuel tank, but the pipe work would have to be able to withstand the pulses.
i think the whole system would benefit from being electronically controlled, so it only deactivates the cylinders when conditions are right:
1) engine at normal temperature
2) revs above set figure e.g 1200 rpm
3) throttle position below 50%
this *might* just work. i think though that the resulting 2 cylinder engine with 2 cylinders of dead weight would be quite difficult to live with.
as for whether it would improve your fuel consumption, i have no idea. As Simon said, you still need the same amount of power to be produced, so the real question is can 2 harder working cylinders produce the same amount of power for less fuel than 4 cylinders?
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could you not have a second set of rims and tyres for when you want to do towing?
swapping between 205r16 and 7.50r16 tyres used to make a massive difference on mine, and that was with the 2.25d
or you could shift into low range only for pulling away on a hill, though if you have freewheel hubs that mean a massive torque going only to the rear axle.
and if you don't have them, you could end up winding the transmission up a bit
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i expect it would fubar the IP pretty quickly, they arent designed to pump against an imovable object. if you could redirect the injection pulse back into the tank that might prolong it's life.
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the dimensions are all listed in the workshop manual, if you google for "series workshop manual" you can download it fairly easily
in part 6, on page 24 you'll find a diagram and all the measurements you could want!
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i don't know for certain, but i cant see how the A frame could go any higher than it does when its touching both bump stops.
unless the axle gets bent....
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i broke more gearboxes and diffs with the 2.25 than i have with the 200tdi.
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i tested mine by tying a bit of sewing thread to the actuator arm, then attaching the other end to the engine through a cable tie so it could slip. set it tight, gave it a rev in neutral, no movement,
went for a gentle drive, no movement,
after flooring it on a straight bit of road until the turbo was definately boosting, it had pulled some thread through the cable tie. that reassured me it was working fine.
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it looks like the naughty language filter is changing your words
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Through the pump, and also back along the return feed to the tank.
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it will just be draining back into the tank, nothing to worry about.
Ian
parabolics and axle alignment?
in Series Forum
Posted
shush! i did say this was a long time ago!