[110 temp gauge problem disco 200Tdi conversion]

try a direct wire from the sender to the signal input connection on the temp gauge, there is nothing in the 90/110 wiring loom to control the temp gauge, it's a direct feed from the sender.

is the gauge correctly earthed --- earth wire from central stud on gauge rear face to the chain of earths for the other gauges.

if it still doesn't read correctly, best option would be to obtain a VDO vision temp gauge & matching sender.

I had the same problems when I fitted a Disco 200tdi in my 90. Fitted the TD sender into the 200 engine, gauge quickly reached top of the white band, even though it seemed to read correctly with the TD engine.

Finally gave up and fitted an aftermarket gauge and sender. When well warmed up it now runs at 80d.C (on the gauge, anyway!)

FWIW, the gauge part no. was 3105, can't read markings on the sender, LR is a 1988 model.

[200tdi Oil Pump]

see page 181 shows a flat ended plunger & ball bearing.

these are the same parts as the older TD engine.

Western, thanks for the response.

No ball fitted as existing, nor new one supplied. Have tried to look at the reference you give (p.181) but get the message "file damaged and can't be repaired".

Thanks anyway

[200tdi Oil Pump]

Hello anyone

Started to fit an oil pump overhaul kit supplied by Turner Engineering.

I find that the new pressure relief plunger has a square end, while the

old one has a slight chamfer. Also, the new spring supplied is roughly

a quarter of an inch shorter than the old one, such that the plug can be

screwed in almost to the sealing washer before any tension can be felt.

I wouldn't have thought that Turners would have supplied wrong parts, but

don't want to put everything back together and find no oil pressure.

Any advice from anyone who has done this job would be very much appreciated!

[help me start it and win a prize]

Personally, I wouldn't run the engine with the alternator disconnected, unless the drive belt was removed. It always used to be reckoned that doing it would cause the alternator

to self destruct, trying to charge against no resistance.

However, I don't know for sure, but it MAY be an expensive way to find out!

[Reviving 200 tdi - It lives!]

You say you had difficulty mating up the engine and g/box. Could be you have burred

the spigot bearing or clutch plate spline, so that either the tight bearing is rotating

the first motion shaft even with the clutch depressed, or the plate is dragging.

No synchro on reverse gear, hence grinding. Would be worth making sure the clutch

hydraulics are ok before pulling the engine again though.

[Microcat query]

Hi Briarston,

I dont know what version you are using but the best thing is to use a small utility (MCLRE) written which puts your time back, opens Microcat then sets the time back again automatically. I havent ever had a problem with AV or time issues.

If you browse through Retroanacondas site located in the post here you can get the downloads from his site. A good rake around should get you what you want.

Im not at home at the moment to confirm the details of the utility but someone else maybe able to confirm.

Incidentaly if you want to search for things in the forum rather than use the inbuilt search engine (the previous one was better) go to google and enter the following in the search bar:

site:forums.lrx4.com +searchnamehere +othersearchnamehere

for example searching for an alloy wheel for a 90 you could enter the following then hit search:

site:forums.lr4x4.com +alloy +wheel +90

The result will bring you back results and links to the item on the forum.

For Microcat you could enter:

site:forums.lr4x4.com +microcat +download

Hope This Helps.

Regards

G

Thanks very much! I'll do a bit more delving.

[new engine details]

I did similar. Replaced 19j with a Disco 200tdi. Filled in new engine no. in the "changes" section, amended doc. was back in about 2 weeks. I had a receipt for the new engine, but it wasn't asked for, so not offered. No request for engineer's report on fitting from either DVLA or insurance company.

Should ad that both engines are the same cc. and same fuel in my case (and yours)No questions on mileage.

[Microcat query]

Hello computer men!

I have a downloaded copy of the earlier Microcat. Running it requires the computer's

date/time to be reset. On returning to present time, my anti virus/security system

insists on doing a scan and backup apparently fooled into thinking they haven't been

done for 4 years.

I have downloaded "Runs a date" but now I'm lost! Having spent the first years of my

working life using 7 figure log tables these newfangled computer things are still a

bit of a mystery to me.

Can some kind (and patient!) person please tell me in SIMPLE terms how to make these

programmes interact, as I get rather lost with terms such as"applications" "folders"

"files" etc!

I would be very gratefull for any advice offered.

[Prop shaft query]

Hi all

Treated my old "90" (1988) to a new rear prop shaft. The new shaft, correct one

according to Microcat, has the fixed uj yokes inline. The old one has them at 90

degrees. Has the old one been dismantled and wrongly assembled by a previous owner,

or has LR had a design change?

I intend fitting the new one "as it came" (presumably balanced this way)but am curious

about the different phasing of the yokes.

Can anyone enlighten me?

[Traders Policies - Insurance]

I had a Trade policy until recently. I stated that I was "part time" only, and that my involvement was acident repairs,and MOT preparation and repairs. I had two vehicles of

my own, two belonging to friends left with me to repair, get MOT'd and sell on their

behalf, plus other "needs MOT, can you take it and fix it" jobs. I felt that I was making sure I was covered for driving these vehicles. The policy covered "any vehicle in the policy holders custody or under his control", for Social, Domestic and Pleasure use, and business use by me in connection with the motor trade. It also covered me for driving a two car car transporter.

However, the initial premium was £450 which I thought was pretty resonable, but after three years it suddenly jumped to over £900! and no claims made. As the need for this policy was reducing, I only renewed once at this price. My two vehicles are now insured independently, those wanting MOT's have to take them themselves unless their insurance covers me.

[Cross drilling a transfer gear]

Hi gang,

Have any of you cross drilled a transfer gear? What type of drill bit did you use?

Any problems other than the hardness of the gear?

Thanks for any advice.

[Transfer box swap]

I was also going by my own personal experience. Didn't mean to contradict you, sorry if it sounded that way!

[Engine Oil Level]

I have found the same thing. Smack on the mark after running up, and suitable drain back time allowed. Left standing a couple of days, level is noticibly above mark.

Oil in the oil cooler draing back to the sump perhaps?

[Transfer box swap]

tis all a straight swap as they're the same casings just different ratio's so to put the defender handbrake assembly onto the disco one just unbolt the disco one and replace with the defender one-no need to drill holes or any other mucking about-I've done 3 now and it really is very easy

Perhaps there are different versions of the 90 h'brake bracket? Mine had bolts on the t'case side and two others on the rear face of the box, behind the brake backplate.

The Disco t'box I have had the cast in lugs for these two bolts, but they were not drilled and tapped. So possibly not all t'box cases are identical?

[Transfer box swap]

I put disco 200tdi t-box on my 200tdi defender. It is a straight swap. The only thing you`ll have to do is to move brackets for hand brake and drill two holes for it. That is all.

Or,to save stripping off the brake drum and back plate, drilling and tapping holes, you

could drill the 90 bracket to pick up on the two existing rear holes where the Disco

bracket mounts, using suitable spacers. The front holes line up.

[Plastic drive rivets]

Thats the way I have normally removed them, the centre pins drop into the sill but this normaly has enough rust holes to be able to retrieve them then reuse them!.

I usually use 1/8" brazing rod, cut to length, and a slight chamfer on the leading

end, as a replacement for lost pins. Easier than routing in the dirt, and quicker

than fetching or mail ordering.

[200tdi from disco to defender]

hello i have fitted a 200 di from a disco to my defender just started using it and noticed that its running close to the red but the engine doesnt seem overly hot .what id like to no is.is the 200 tdi sender compatible to the original turbo diesal guage .hope you can help many thanks. Tom

I have also done this conversion. I fitted the TD sender to it. When well warmed up, the gauge is near the top of the white segment, worrying at first, but shows no sign of being overhot, just as you say. Perhaps the more central mounting point on the TD engine gives a more "average" block temp. whereas mounted near the thermostat housing is the hottest part thus a high reading? Perhaps the way to go is as Western suggests - 200tdi Defender sender. I think I will try that myself!

[Locating the airbox in a defender (200tdi) conversion]

Hi all,

Just thought i'd snap a few shots of how I overcame the problem of locating the airbox during my disco to defender 200tdi conversion.

hope some can find it useful.

Regards

Dave

I mounted a Disco filter housing vertically onto the inner wing using slightly modified

Disco mounting clamps, similar place to the original sat. Intake hose feeds in nearly

straight, and nearly straight hose into turbo.

Was quite pleased with myself, then later saw a pic. that someone else had had a similar

idea! Bah!

[Unusual Land Rover Engine Transplants]

HA HA !!! I had one of them in my old RRC What a total nightmare to start on cold days, 1 small pre heater in the inlet manifold trying to start 6 cyl Ran it for about 6 months, and then the water pump went and cooked it beyond repair! it Just turned a nice Rangie in to tractor! so popped a V8 back in, Happy days

Ian

Had a bad name for cold starting, certainly. A man in the transport business pointed

me towards the cold start system he had on his Seddon Atkinsons. A piped in cannister

of an easy start type gas, with a measuring chamber (various sizes to suit engine

capacity)Pull the knob to charge the chamber,push knob in while cranking engine.

Started first time everytime!

[Unusual Land Rover Engine Transplants]

I put a york 6 diesel in a rangerover some years ago and wished i had,nt not the best

Snap! I did this back in the mid 1980's when the only other easily obtained engines

were Perkins 4/203 & 4/236 which would pull anything, but were low revving.

I found the Ford to be satisfactory for power/speed, but a heavy lump which required

heavy duty rear springs on the front to make the RR. sit level. Had a distinct

tendency to want to go straight on, in snow/ice/mud due to the front end weight.

I put the V8 back in after a year.

[Worn/Dry UJ's]

now I'm very worried! I really hope it's not the diff. Any other symptoms of this I should look out for?

don't think its the handbreak, it's not sticking and had the shoes replaced in January.

Hello

Don't wish to worry you any more, but my "old" rear axle made very similar noise to

this (fair amount of backlash as well). After swapping it for a Disco axle, I took

out the diff. with a view to re-setting the CWP clearance. I was surprised to find

that the backlash wasn't between the crown wheel/pinion, it was all in the diff. pinions

and these were in a bad state, surfaces broken up, and also the inner pinion bearing

race was in a poor state. Previous owner(s) may have run it dry at some time?

Lets hope you do have a bad uj., easier and cheaper fix!

[struggling to separate engine from gearbox!]

ive been out and had another look,cant see any more anywhere.

absolutley no gaps,its rock solid.

I will take off the tunnel tomorrow.

If I havent missed one ,what else is it likely to be?

Mine was well stuck! Sealer around the bellhousing/flywheel housing joint.

I suppose it's to make it watertight when wading?

A good waggling of the engine, some careful jacking under the g/box and the

use of a suitable pry bar separated the engine and box. It will also help if

the lifting chain is slightly forward of the vertical (assuming you have removed

all the nuts of course!) I found that if engine/box alignment wasn't near perfect

the studs jammed in the holes.

[200 tdi]

pull the relief valve out & check it's not damaged/worn & measure the spring for the correct lentgh, it maybe very tired & not as strong as it needs to be.

I had one like that! Started first time every time, ran well, but short on oil

pressure. After checking everything else,found that the rear camshaft bearing had moved.

[disco 200tdi]

only if you are changing the manifolds over to Def ones as per the reply in my post. other wise the turbo IIRC exits in the rear of the timing cover.

If you are keeping the disco inlet and outlet manifolds then you dont need to change the timing case. it will just clear the PAS box. the fan will need sorting though, cutting down or replacing with electric ones as that will contact the steering box.

Mine clears the steering box with no problem. Even the Disco viscous fan is suitably

clear. However, I fitted an electric fan instead. The Disco fan setup seems too far

off centre of rad, and rad cowls don't line up. I did fit new engine mount rubbers

though.

[300tdi compression]

Are you sure it held the compression for a couple of minutes? most gauges will "hold" the reading to give you time to read it if you are doing the job single handed, but that doesn't mean anything...

A good 300 should be 24bar/350psi according to the workshop manual so it does seem a bit low but it could be valve seat corrosion - we had a problem with a Volvo marine diesel a couple of years back which turned out to be valve seat corrosion - would never have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes but a relatively small (to the eye) amount of corrosion was chopping compressions in half. New valves and seats were fitted and it has been fine ever since. In this case it was a small amount of seawater getting into the intake via the charge cooler (not likely on a 300Tdi!) and the salt was causing the corrosion but lying unused could have a similar effect I suppose. I don't know if it would "bed in" afterwards or not. It could also be dry or sticking rings - the fact they are all low but not wildly different is probably reason for encouragement.

I guess it depends if you feel lucky. If engines were plentiful, it might be one to walk away from but if not, maybe worth a punt. How much is the asking price?

It may also be just "dry" or gummed up piston rings, after standing 6 months, perhaps?