[Power steering pump pulley size land rover defender 200tdi]

thanks for the replies and advice.ok wanted to load a video but its peeing down here in cape town,maybe later.

at least others have the same problem of having to takepump of the bracket to get ( origional size) belt on/off .

anyone ever attempted checking the pressure of the system as described in the workshop manual?

obviously cant get genuine LR service tools but must be able to make up a test set with high reading gauge??

[Power steering pump pulley size land rover defender 200tdi]

Hi all  have a standard 1993  200tdi defender which has always had a problem with the power steering .

I think i have narrowed it down to the pulley on the PAS pump being` slightly` bent/dented AND MAYBE a  non standard size .Can anyone measure up for me the real true size of the pulley .

I have always been unable to get a standard PAS belt on without having to undo all three bolts that( hold and adjust) the pump on to the bracket and then i can slip the belt on and just manage to get it bolted up and then can adjust it up.

I definitely have a slight dent in the pulley and didnt think it was a real problem but now think it could be causing me vibration/running  problems which lead to snapping the bracket holding bolts .The belt you can visualy see wobble when running can upload video.

Also can someone give me advice on just how much steering  assistance i should be getting (before this car i was use to a series 3 so my arms  are bigger than normal) ...i know its hard to say but at idle i can turn the wheels but its not hard but also not easy easy and would have to use both hands....is this normal.

If my pulley was slightly bigger than it should be then i would be getting less assistance??

 

thanks for any input and advice

[locking washer on drop arm /steering box]

that looks right and can see how that works unlike what i had; ;thanks

[locking washer on drop arm /steering box]

thanks western will get one ordered

[locking washer on drop arm /steering box]

also just to say i torqued this nut when i first put it on to the most i could get it 150 nm on the torque wrench then a few more degrees with a power bar

[locking washer on drop arm /steering box]

Hi all changed my very leaky power steering box on my standard 1993 200tdi defender  about 2 months ago with a box that came from a ranger rover classic and have been very happy up till over the weekend i noticed the steering felt a bit vague /loose and when i had a look underneath found the big nut holding the (new)drop arm onto the steering box shaft was only hand tight .could undo it just by putting a socket on it and very loosely holding socket without a bar on i undid it!!!

When i put this nut on ( had a new nut and washer from LR and a new drop arm...in a blue box) but could not understand how the lock tab washer could properly do its job as it is a complete circular washer and  only slightly bigger diameter than the drop arm which it is suppose to lock onto and this is compounded by the fact that the drop arm is round so unlike a wheel bearing nut  washer it can only grip properly on the nut and not the drop arm part.( Im tapping one edge up and one edge down like a wheel bearing nut)

in the parts book i have it states that it is just a bog standard round washer  (part no 600265 ) but i have also seen another type of washer that has two long tabs on which i would imagine could properly lock( Part no AEU 4025  )...both going up on the drop arm?

anyone have had this problem before and am i doing something wrong by tapping the lock washer one side down on the securing nut flat and the another opposite part of the washer up onto the drop arm

 

Sorry if this is not sounding clear but been a long day

[200tdi running temp]

On ‎29‎/‎08‎/‎2017 at 5:15 PM, Maverik said:

 

Oil temp is around 80 to 110 probably sits about 88 most of the time and is much slower to respond either up or down.

 

 

 

 Hi Maverik can i ask how you have got your oil temperature plumbed in ( if using the madman monitor) ,I also have this monitor(fantastic bit of kit) but not sure where to plumb in the sender and avoid a " colder dead end " to measure from

[Salisbury Axles (Disc / Drum differences)]

Thats good news as have a 300tdi axle of a scrapped but running vehicle and since I tried and fail to repair the leaking diff pinion seal(like a real idiot I lost count of the number of turns to get the bearing torqued up again to the same torque when i replaced and is leaking again-no other bad noises or running hot to hand touch ) and think this could be a better option than trying to refurbish the dif?

[air filter housing leaking air outwards?]

Thats good to hear and maybe I can keep my last greyless hair for a while longer 

[Salisbury Axles (Disc / Drum differences)]

Ok thats good to know just couldnt understand why it was never really spoken about as an option rather than converting drum axle ...thanks

[air filter housing leaking air outwards?]

I have a standard defender 200tdi but has a Mantec raised air intake.

I noticed today that with the engine idling that I am getting a steady puff of air coming from the air filter cannister join/seal(where it comes apart for getting at the air filter)
 

Is this right? it seems to be less noticeable when you increase the revs but I think is still there slightly.Have tried to put some rubber sponge gasket material in between the two halves but it's still puffing to the outside

would rather have it pushing air out than sucking air in as would be worried about water ingress

[Salisbury Axles (Disc / Drum differences)]

i have always seen posts here about converting a rear salisbury drum axle to a discs,can someone please tell me is it possible to just use the whole rear salisbury axle with its discs from a 300tdi ??. I may have one available and my salisbury axle is leaking from the dif pinion seal anyway

I have an original 1993 200tdi defender

[centre diff lock lever 3 positions?]

Hi guys thanks for the replies and yes definitely the centre dif lock i am asking about .

Yes i was always under the impression of there being no neutral but when i took off the  3 bolts that hold the little finger cam which actuates the sekector for the diff then it definitely  has a 3rd distinctive position (the 10 oclock one )which puts the selector all the way rearwards ????

[centre diff lock lever 3 positions?]

Hi all just need a little bit of advice on the centre  diff lock on my 1993 defender 200tdi.

Have just changed the lt230 transfer box for a later 1996 one from a defender and had a bit of hassle getting the diff lock linkages working correctly.

On the transfer box looking  from aft to fwd the little cam that is actuated via the little metal rod

 (which then links to the larger upstanding lever which then goes to the diff lock/high low lever -have changed all the little plastic bushings in the rods  and have got it all working BUT... )

i have noticed that on that  diff lock changer it can go from a 2oclock position (LOCKED DIFF) thru anti clockwise movement  to 12 0clock position(UNLOCKED DIFF../.NEUTRAL???) AND also can then be taken further anti clockwise again to a 10 oclock position(UNLOCKED DIFF ./.NEUTRAL???)

At first i thought the 12 0clock position could have been a neutral position  but like the further 10 oclock position i still get drive in both the 12 and 10 oclock positions((UNLOCKED DIFF./.NEUTRAL???)

Can anyone confirm there is no neutral position in the diff lock and if it should stop at the 12 oclock position from further anti clockwise movement(there is like a detent position for it which i can feel )and if its bad for it to go further to the 10 oclock position.
 

hope the above ramble can be understood and appreciate  any advice

Andrew

[Alternator for defender 200 tdi]

I know on some of the alternators you can seperat the front and back halves and spin them around so the mounting holes align up on the next segment if you know what I mean

Hth

[200tdi defender power steering pump/alternator bracket problem]

Hey Maverick many thanks for all the effort and that does help .I do have it back together and seems to be running well as its my daily ride but come the next service I may indeed try a build up with helicoil if any thing looks suspect.

Thanks again for effort

Ndrew

[200tdi defender power steering pump/alternator bracket problem]

Hi all and many thanks for all the helpful suggestions.

Have managed to get the bracket and pas /alternator back together and all seems to be running well.The belt for the pas is also running much truer

I will look into either finding a replacement rear timing chest or else put in a helicoil but only when the cam belt needs changing or if the current repair wont hold., its quite restricted to get a good result in situ and unsure how deep I can go with drilling.

Still cant see where/how the 3rd bolt would attach to ?

I did also drill out and tap my alternator housing that attaches to the tensioning link as before it was just a drilled hole meaning I had to try and tension the belt whilst holding and tightening a nut and bolt with 2 spanners!

[200tdi defender power steering pump/alternator bracket problem]

Hi guys just had a great 2000km trip here in South Africa and didnt have any problem until the lat 10 km when the alternator/power steering pump bracket stripping the thread where it goes into the timing case body.

I have a 200tdi genuine defender from1993 and have always had a problem on the fixing of this bracket for the ps pump and alternator as the timing chest rear case has quite badly worn the 2 available bolt fixings and also the flat mating surface of these 2 bolt housings. This has the effect of not helping with the true alignment / running of the power steering pump belt

I have checked the parts book and it shows that the bracket should have 2+1(3) bolts that go into the timing chest. I can only see 2 bolts that can be attached and does not show clearly how the 3 bolts are attached or any other bracket for allowing the 3rd bolt

I have put some pics and a page from the parts book with the 3 bolts (screws) highlighted and also showing my bracket with the 3 holes to accept the bolts.(I hope they load as am on a tablet that is carp!)

I have hopefully (?)managed to rebuild the broken top thread hole (10mm dia) and the lower 8mm dia hole with some lock tighted studs with spring washers andnuts ,which have also been reinforced with some epoxy putty to build up the timing chest casing where these bolts go in.

So question is how or where does the 3rd bolt go in to?

Is there a way to work out from the part numbers what size diameter/length those bolts should be as not sure if my top one had been retapped to a bigger size at some previous time.

I will try to find a replacement rear timing chest case for when I next to a cambelt change (3.5yrs to go) but really want to avoid doing the case until that time

Any advice as usual gratefully recieved

Thanks

Andrew

[lost door hinge nut]

I also had real trouble with some new Jnuts that I purchased, they would not allow the bolt to feed into the captive nut and just ended pushing the back part away from the start of the bolt.

Ended up putting the old ones back on.thinking about it today I wondered if you could tie the2 sides of the captive nut together with fine strong twine? This should allow the bolt to get started?

Dont know if they were britpart nuts but they were carp

[heatshrink]

have also got some 6:1 ratio clear heat shrink from rs which was not too expensive .fantastic stuff as it will go over most fittings and shink down over after

.They are clear and resin lined and are about 50 mm long and come in 2 sizes @20 mm dia and @15mm diaand come in a pack of 100?

cant remeber the code and cant seem to get it up on screen

let me know if you need more info

[removing exhaust manifold defender 200tdi -easiest way?]

I am thinking of doing mine in the next few days ,still not sure about leaving the manifold in place .

thats exactly how I ummed and arred about it ...but at the end of the day its your vehicle and if you are even contemplating taking the manifold off then there must be a valid reason. its also easier to get the whole thing done exactly in the place and direction you want the tap to go in with manifold off with zero chance of any swarf finding itself in the wrong places.

good luck

[radius arm bush replacement ....help]

Cheers all! Have 4 new bushes pressed into the arms and went so easily tgatit made a mockery of my efforts yesterday with jack on my old series landy trying to push then in with its full weight.just need to tighten up now and good to go

Many many thanks

[radius arm bush replacement ....help]

Wish I had at the beginning but now will be too much searching about for a quality set at decent price....here in SA prices are at least 100% more than UK and most is Britpart, for the 4 front and 4 rear radius arm bushes (for the front axle) was over 50 UK POUNDS! !!!!

[radius arm bush replacement ....help]

If you remove the other side. ... PUT THE STANDS UNDER THE CHASSIS! !

The axle will twist and be unstable without either arm....

re bushes. .. they really need to be put in with a decent press..... square. .. otherwise you just struggle forever. ..

For info. . Where are you roughly? ?

Thanks for the super quick reply I need it, , unfortunatelyI am in Cape Town (expat now living here),

When you say have the axle stands under chassis rails do you mean ONLY under rails or ALSO under the axle whilst I remove both arms (when I took the left arm off I just supported the axle itself-where it still is)

Will go to have them pressed in by reputable suspension outfit once off

[removing exhaust manifold defender 200tdi -easiest way?]

A bit of an old thread but yes was told by a few people to do it that way but its just something that niggled away at me beforehand that knowing my luck I would be the poor unfortunate idiot where it got stuffed up for some reason.

Anyway to the whole manifold of with the turbo then drilled and tapped the manifold.all sorted for at least 18 months now and egt monitor going well ,just wished I had drilled and tapped the inlet manifold at the sametime as now want to set up pre and post air inlet temperature senders either side of a new ready to install full width alisport intercooler to monitor difference from standard.