EFILandRover
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Posts posted by EFILandRover
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Is that the one that went for a bargain price on Trade Me last week? A score!
Don
Na this was a bargain from another 4wd forum. $600 which Im pretty stoked with
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Just casually!
I wish I could do that for my stage 1! There's an ex army one down the road from me that was up for a bargain but is now under a tarp on his lawn... oh to have the cash. I would break it just for the army trim + front prop + proper landy wheels and tyres!
Not really casually. Just another case of being in the right place at the right time and a dad willing to grab it for because I live in another island
Wouldn't have either of them if he wasn't as obsessed with rovers as I am. 
And here is the parts one in all its glory. Ld28 and 5 speed
http://s93.photobucket.com/user/turoa/media/2013-06-23154015.jpg.html'>
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Just saw these, a good opportunity? Someone wants the chequer plate so the guards are on their own it seems!
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/landrover/auction-604342912.htm
Aah Ideal! added to watchlist. Although I may have just bought another whole 110
Just waiting on confirmation -
Just a thought, Would it be feasible to try stage 1 v8 panels? There's not really a shortage of those in NZ, there's one being broken in Dunedin currently..
Yea thought about that but still the arch issue and the funny vents in the sides.
The front panels are very similar, so could be swapped and riveted to the Defender inner wing braces that support the slam panel. The outer wings will bolt straight on, and you can just cut the wheel arches, leaving tabs in the right places to be folded back in for the wheel arch spats to be clipped to. The wheel arch wouldn't be quite as rigid, but it works well enough.Cheers, will have a look into that if I can find some cheap enough
I don't understand, those will polish out fine
Also a plan, Was trying to avoid it as it wont look perfect but worth a shot
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Haha yea it is. Pretty much stole it from the guy
Seconded. That wouldn't happen to be 110 from trademe with the LD28 would it?? -
Hi all,
I have a 1986 110 with two completely buggered front guards. Unfortunately here in NZ it is near on impossible to get second hand body panels for these vehicles without selling your kidneys so Im looking for other options.
I know the arches and grill mounting locations are different, but is it possible to modify s3 guards to fit a 110?
Cheers
http://s93.photobucket.com/user/turoa/media/20130310_194536.jpg.html'>
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Hey mate, brilliant work and good to see! I put a 1uz in my landrover 88" project with hilux diffs awhile ago but got bored and never finished it so put a holden 6cyl back in again to get it going. Have recently purchased a 109" flat deck 2a to play with so Im going to throw it in that so your thread is going to be a valuable reference for me
keep up the good work -
I used to do it at my old work and did quite a few sets of them.
Use a 1mm cutting disk to cut through the weld. Be careful not to cut into the wheel (doesnt matter if you cut in a little bit). Use a bit of pipe and a hammer to seperate the centre. Only hit the outer edge where that is up against the actual wheel. Otherwise you will warp the centre. This will probably take awhile to get out as you need to minimize the amount you cut. You can tell when it starts to move as the weld will start to crack.
When it is out use a flap disk to clean up the centre from the wheel. When its cleaned up, depending on if you are just adding backspace or flipping, line it up again and hammer it back in to around the right position taking care to only hit the outer edge. Then with it in place, measure from where the wheel contacts the hub to the outside of the wheel using a straight edge and a ruler. go around and measure at the 12,3,6 and 9 oclock positions to find where it is out, and then give it a light whack until all measure the same. Tack it up in 4 places and bolt it onto a hub on your truck. Give it a spin and see if there is wobble. If there is this means either your measurements are out or the wheel is buckled. If it is buckled, the best you can do is to mark where it is different and give it a whack in the right direction. Try and get it as good as you can. Then weld em up and enjoy.
The other way to do it is to build a jig which will take a bit more setting up, but if you plan to do a few wheels then it is probably worth it.
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I thought id better update this.
Pulled manifold and had to helicoil out one hole. Manifold was warped by about 3mm so had to mill it flat. But also cleaned inlet manifold and my dad made an egr removal bits.
She seems to honk along a lil better than before. But the best part is I dont have to deal with the squealing anymore
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I pulled the heat shield off to find the manifold leaking around no3 cylinder and a broken stud on #1, so I guess its time for new studs and gasket then
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Hiya,
Recently my td5 disco has developed a squeeling noise. It varies with the rpm and if I floor it, it seems to dissapear. I was wondering if maybe it was a boost leak (still got the standard hoses) or something more sinister?
Cheers
turoa
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Mod your tie rod to miss the springs by putting some bends in it and go spring under, or just have the front end coil sprung and use radius arms etc
I dont think I can bend it enough to miss the springs can you? I do have the bits here for a coil conversion and did think about it. But I have a theory that leaf springs will work better offroad as they "roll" over the bumps rather than having to be forced over, since they have the fixed end at the front.
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Ive started putting a disco front end into my s1 trials thingy, and im now stuck. I can either have the spring perches hanging ugly low and losing all my clearence, or I can go spring over and have it sitting way too high. What can I do? Im not particularaly fond of either option.
Reason being is that the tie rod his the springs
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Standard spring would be fine. You will need to build anti diff wrap bars. I hope you are using wider than standard diffs?
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A few of you may have seen my thread about putting nissan diffs in my mates disco. But now, we are nearly finished. BUT, he left it at my house for a week last week, and when we went to go and get it from up the back it wouldnt turn over. Jumper leads, and a new battery didnt make a difference. And it wouldnt crash start. I eventually said "pull the plugs" so we did, and the drivers side left cylinder was full of coolant. I know it is not good, but what could it be?
Im thinking best case head gasket and worse case cylinder lining. The compression test we did showed all the cylinders at around 150psi. No significant drop on any of them. What could it be?
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A few of you may have seen my thread about putting nissan diffs in my mates disco. But now, we are nearly finished. BUT, he left it at my house for a week last week, and when we went to go and get it from up the back it wouldnt turn over. Jumper leads, and a new battery didnt make a difference. And it wouldnt crash start. I eventually said "pull the plugs" so we did, and the drivers side left cylinder was full of coolant. I know it is not good, but what could it be?
Im thinking best case head gasket and worse case cylinder lining. The compression test we did showed all the cylinders at around 150psi. No significant drop on any of them. What could it be?
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It looks like you would be adding a HEAP of weight? I would try and keep the weight down. Also, there is sometimes no need for huge amounts of articulation. I prefer low weight, and picking up wheels over holes and to keep on driving rather than having heaps of travel and getting bound up in holes. If you cant get enough traction to the ground, install lockers.
My 2c anyway
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Why do you need more than 13" of articulation?
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What kind of diffs etc are you using?
Do you have any more pics of the whole setup?
Cheers
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"Don't wanna spend much money" "Want to supercharge it"
Fit EFI that gives you an instant 30bhp & better driveability.
Well maybe you guys dont have access to as much cheap jap parts as we do.
I can pick up an SC14 for around $300nz which is 110 UK pound according to the currency converter.
Then I might have to fit EFI as the rangie carbs need vaccum dont they? the alternative then is to buy some 60mm throttle bodys (about 10 pound each) and graft them onto the alloy manifold. Then I dont get dual lpg and petrol then. Hmm, maybe start with the basics? new cam? and efi and fit MS?
Supercharging would be a good option though.
- $300nz for supercharger
- $40nz for intercooler
- $100nz for piping
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Thanks for the replys so far. Has anyone used a toyota sc14 supercharger and errm.... supercharged the damn things?
My use will mostly be road use rather than offroad, so not really chasing low down torque, and I like to rev things.
Cheers
BTW, I have a 9.35 :1 in the back yard. Its just the sump, block pistons and valves and springs. How much would it cost to get rings and bearings and a new cam etc from out of the UK as I live in NZ?
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Hi,
I have a standard carb 3.5 I want to get a little more power out of without spending too much or rebuilding the whole engine.
So.... I will be running LPG. What kinda things can I do to it? I have heard of a 3.9 cam being good? maybe an HEI?
Cheers
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Does anyone know if a facelift disco dash would fit? Soft dash rangies arent readily availible here
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Hi,
How hard would it be to put a late classic dash or disco dash into a 1978 2 door. Id be looking at changing the seats at the same time.
And is it hard to move the rear seats back a bit, or put different rear seats in?
Cheers
Wouldn't have either of them if he wasn't as obsessed with rovers as I am. 
Just waiting on confirmation
Immobiliser bypass for P38, L322 and TD5
in International Forum
Posted
Definitely interested to see what you get up to! I've recently had to work out how to remove the EWS off a 4.4 L322 for a mate, next challenge is sorting out an m57!