Julian
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Posts posted by Julian
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Do you think it would make any difference - seems to me the pikey's just see free fuel,dont care what colour it is.t.
Oh I think they would care. Remember that 'cleaning' red diesel (fuller's earth and sulphuric acid) was the IRA's biggest revenue earner, drugs second i think. Mr Pikey would make a mint selling white Diesel at 145p/L
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A friend of mine has been done for running on red, since then he claims he has had a number of personal visits to dip his tank. So it sounds like if you are caught once they'll be back ......
If caught then you'll probably have to behave.
I think it's only worth the risk if you are a private individual. If you run a taxi cab (for instance) they can go back through the books, see how much business you do, calculate a mileage and sting you for back duty :-(
Julian.
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Its about time red diesel was finished with.Then any business with a right to claim rebated fuel could submit a second return alongside their Vat return.
Imagine what diesel theft from farms by Pikeys would be like if the tanks all had white diesel - it's bad enough now with red.....
Julian.
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I've never been stopped in about 15 years of running diesels cars. I've only ever seen testing once at a taxi rank at Manchester Airport.
I don't do many miles so savings wouldn't be great for me so I just use regular white, but I tell you what, given the likelehood of getting stopped - slim to nothing, you'd be quids in getting done and having the car confiscated once every decade or so!
Julian
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There isnt a gasket for the sump on a 200tdi..
Sorry, I didn't realise that - should have known better as I had one once!
Julian
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I appreciate that the manual calls for silicone RTV but I've taken a dislike to the stuff over the years and find the non-setting stuff is a better bet for helping out with joint sealing if used in combination with a gasket: Red hylomar is semi-hardening if you prefer.
http://www.hylomar.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=62&Itemid=70
It's expensive so probably why the manufacturers don't call for it as it is probably not OE spec. Developed by Rolls Royce......
Julian.
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Still, it's done and sealed back up. Letting the RTV set overnight, then I'll fill it back up with 15W40 and pray it doesn't leak!
RTV is fit for gutters and bath tub surrounds, hydrocarbons weaken it and make it swell.
The real mechanic or engineer will use Blue Hermetite. (or maybe red)
Julian.
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OK, the bolts are on the shelf, will wait for your info.
OK, got around to it just (been modifying drains to work better after the heavy rains we had almost two weeks ago) and I got the old bolts out OK and with a good wire brushing they will be OK to go again. The old mounting brackets had got rust holes right through them (MOT failure) but still had plenty of meat in them.
Thanks again for the kind offer.
Julian.
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Not been near it yet. I'm working away at Heathrow and get home later today. Will advise you accordingly!
Julian
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However, the corrosion seems to have mostly been at the base of the bleed nipple (how?) - the seat doesn't look like it'll ever seal cleanly again. Ho hum. I don't feel happy about trying to grind that clean, so I guess it's new caliper time. Preferably 2, I think (opinions?). And it can have new pads at the same time...
It will be just fine, when you wind the nipple up tight you will get a seal or I'll eat my hat - been there many times.
Stick it back, bleed the brakes and have an assistant press hard on the pedal while you check for leaks. If it is leak free then Bob's your uncle!!
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A MIG welder is maybe the answer.
Put a blob of weld on the nipple so that you can get vise grips on it and undo.
Chances are the weld blob sheared off, don't worry, just keep repeating the exercise.
Eventually the continued heating and cooling will allow it to unscrew. (in 90% of occasions according to my mate)]
Julian.
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Gas i have a pub bottle of CO2 that came with the welder
Not so good for thin stuff as the arc is too fierce. 95% argon is far better IMO.
Julian.
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Machine Mart is one option, they would have everything you need.
Julian
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Bummer, all that great work and the ol girl called it quits.
What a shame, mind you it sounded like you really wanted the conversion anyway?
Good luck,
Marc.
I shouldn't worry. My guess is that it's out of fuel!
Julian.
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This is the actual inspection manual:http://www.motinfo.g...tdocs/index.htmSometimes that previous site can be out of date...
Probably an over-zealous interpretation of 2.4.2.3:
Deliberate modification which significantly reduces the original strength, excessive corrosion, severe distortion, a fracture or an inadequate repair of a load bearing member or its supporting structure or supporting panelling within 30cm of any sub-frame, spring or a suspension component mounting, that is, within a 'prescribed area',
Section 2 is suspension, I think you need section 6 (vehicle structure)
But it's not a 'modification' and it doesn't reduce strength - it's an addition I would say. If it was a failure point then the same criteria would apply to (say) drilling holes in vehicle structure to fit a towbar mount.
Julian.
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This is the best guide on the internet in my opinion, straight from the horse's mouth:
http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual/contents.htm
Where does it say that RS's are a failure?
Julian.
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Now I have my Large Garage built
(though with two Defender 110s, a Ford Ranger, a 5.8m RIB and trailer, motorbike, cement mixer, barbecue, four ladders and a ride-on lawnmower in it I probably should have made it bigger as it's getting a bit full 
) I need a few bits to go in it... one of which is a pillar drill as since changing jobs I no longer have access to the dealership workshop.I've looked at the threads on here and not really got an answer. You can clearly spend as much on a pillar drill as you want to, but it is a very occasional use item for me and I don't feel inclined to spend > £100 or so. For that there is a fair choice but the question is are they worth having or are they just shiny junk? What I need is something with a 13mm chuck and speeds to suit drilling everything from 316 marine stainless for the boat via mild steel, plastic or wood, but generally small fiddly things rather than needing something you can fit the Titanic's funnel onto.
The type of thing I am thinking about is a Sealey or Clarke unit like this
http://www.machinema...01b-drill-press
no reason for that particular model or supplier except it seems to fit the bill for spec.
Any thoughts on quality? Due to the need to export I neither want to buy a second hand light industrial unit off eBay nor is it likely it would be easy to ship here.
I have one like that, had it for at least 15 years, there's dozens like it for similar money and they're all Chinese stuff.
It's OK, but it doesn't go slow enough or have enough torque to handle a 13mm drill into steel. Well it does, but you have to go easy or it just stalls. Other than that it's absolutely fine. What you find is that it's very useful, because the motor is so weak you can hold things with your hand while drilling and not risk getting severed tendons if the drill bit binds up in the job!
For more serious drilling I use my vertical milling machine, but when posible I prefer the small pillar drill.
Julian.
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Thanks Western, I'll have a look and see if that's what I need and if so, let you know.
Julian.
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I've just got some new bottom seat belt anchors for my series 3, they are the triangular shaped things that bolt to the rear door frame/seat box. part numbers 345100 7345101. I thought they would come with the big bolt, but they do not. There doesn't appear to be the bolt listed in the parts catalogue (presumably it comes with the actual belt!) so does anyone happen to know where I can get one of these shouldered bolts from?
Cheers Julian.
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Cheers all.
Plan is now to drill out further and Helicoil it back to M8, will do so when I can get my hands on a kit. Local factors out of stock at the moment annoyingly.
I'd not bother with helicoiling unless you have a strong urge. There looks to be plenty of meat there so just open it up to the next size and use a bigger stud - in these instances I normally find that there's a UNC size that's marginally bigger and will do very nicely!
PS A copy of ''Engineers Black Book'' is a good additon to any book shelf!
Julian.
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Not that I know what I'm talking about really but I can't help think that on something like a LR chassis, where there's as much metal surface inside the sections than there is on the outside that doing it the way nature intended may be best, ie hot dipped. Is there any reason why you want to avoid doing it this way?
Julian.
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It's undriveable currently as the seat box, floor and trans tunnel are out for cleaning/undersealing/soundproofing. !
Big wuzzes in NZ :-) I drove mine up the road sitting on a block of sponge ontop of the fuel tank!
Julian.
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Don't see the point in that when you can ask on a forum pick up the phone
I have phoned in the past and I've found them obviously busy and feel like I'm a hindrance with some daft enquiry. 'Live Chat' is good as they can reply as and when able and also it's free unlike the phone. I have Luddite tendencies too, but in this case I'd say 'don't knock it 'til you've tried it!'
It seems to be getting more common now, on this site that I use (if memory serves) http://www.4secondsflat.com/ a little box pops up with 'Hi I'm Larry, can I be of assistance?' You can ignore it if you wish.
Julian.
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LRSeries are my prefered supplier these days, then LRDirect - both of whom offer choices of manufacturer, and then AMD in Leicester, but last time I looked their website was still down.
LR Series I have used in the past, having discovered that their 'customer relations' department is headed up by Atilla the Hun I now use Britcar who I find very good. Britpart's website now features a 'chat box' so you can get to communicate with someone 'real-time' if you need help.
Julian
(though with two Defender 110s, a Ford Ranger, a 5.8m RIB and trailer, motorbike, cement mixer, barbecue, four ladders and a ride-on lawnmower in it I probably should have made it bigger as it's getting a bit full 
) I need a few bits to go in it... one of which is a pillar drill as since changing jobs I no longer have access to the dealership workshop.
Diesel Dipping - Testing VOSA
in Getting out and about
Posted
The wife has one of those, now up to 280,000 miles on original engine/box etc. She's never been pulled over once, but then she's a cival servant - and looks like one!
Julian.