tarmacshredder

Progress, having had he ecu off to picture the inside, I have once again checked the wiring for the lambda sensor and traced it back to the ecu. I have reconnected the lambda sensor wiring to the db37 plug, put the ecu back in and then fired it up. Voltage on the lambda was showing 0.20volts before start up and after 40seconds or so the voltage rose to 0.69-0.71volts. Thats the good news, I am guessing a bad connection in the lambda plug but not really sure why it is now working and wasn't before. I still have the residual voltage and what I don't know is wether the 0.69-0.71volts is correct or whether that is ontop of the 0.20volts I had before. Also it is now not running on all cylinders having lost 1 or 2 on the drivers side bank I think, it is popping and fluttering in the exhaust header on the drivers side, the lambda is on the passengerside bank. All good fun! Glenn

Yes there are 4 coil drivers an inline fuse and an earth all on the lid, I will try again to take some more pictures but the components are so small it is very difficult to focus. Glenn

It is now runing edis8, "all to do with the coil drivers which arent being used" they are just still in the box switched off and appropriate jumpers moved for Edis. Glenn

I have taken some pictures of the board, the wires which run out of sight, the large black ones and the thin purple, pink, brown and grey are all to do with the coil drivers which arent being used. MAP sensor connected to ECU and back of plenium, have had this disconnected before and it was alot worse then! lol Glenn

Unfortunately I haven't got access to another ecu so cannot try that to see if the problem is related to the vehicle or the ecu. (Again my plea for someone local to give me a hand). The db37 plug is wired and setup the same as in the megasquirt manual for a MS1 version3 so that it can be swapped and interchanged onto another vehicle, I also have a db15 plug that has the additional mods wired to (fan switching, dual table switching and the original direct coil drivers, non of which are connected). As for tuning without the lambda/megatune I am nervous, it is obvious that it is over fuelling at the moment due to the smell and consumption etc. If I drop the required fuelling overall it runs rough and starts to lump about, I can drop the individual cells on the fuel table and make no noticeable difference to the engine note but I am conscious that I don't want to go the other way and be running lean as the 4.6 is then going to have all kinds of other problems that are going to be even more expensive to fix. I can try with the multimeter attached to the lambda but I am only going to get it to hit certain cells and then there is going to be a lot of thumb in the dark calculations to try and get the fuelling table to look something like, and the whole idea of the megatune is so that you can log and tune accurately so that the ecu is matched perfectly to your engine. Seams odd that I appear to be the only person in Worcestershire and Warwickshire that runs megasquirt on there Rover V8! I am not sure if that makes me feel privileged or depressed! lol Glenn

It is not for a want of trying to workout why there is a residual voltage on the lambda but I have a V3.57 board which is surface mounted and I cannot workout why I have a problem with the circuit. I am pritty certain the fault occured after the mod for Edis8. The mod for Edis8 isn't in the megasquirt manual for the V3.57 board so I got the information from Diyautotune in the sates that sells these surface mount ecus and they carry out the mod for customers there. I have emailed them with the problem I have but they didn't have a solution to the residual voltage on the lambda circuit. The company that supplied the ecu is no longer trading and it is well over a year old. My request for someone local that has a knowledge on megasquirt, is so I can do exactly that swap over the ecu and see if there vehicle has the same residual current but also for them to have a look and hopefully see something stupid that I have done that is so blatantly obvious to them but I cannot see. I like your suggestion of unpluging the pwm valve and see if it makes any difference when starting as I haven't tried that and no one has suggested it before. Glenn

Hi Bowie69 and thanks for the reply. I started the Landy this weekend for the first time since the snow, turned key and fired up straight away, it stumbles, snorts and lumps around for about 20 seconds and then ran at idle. All eight cylinders are running fine,you can blip the throttle and revs freely. TPS was set again since the log and now appears to be giving values similar to what I have read on the forum, so I dont think thats a problem. msq is one that nige put on. My big problem is I cannot tune with the lambda as I have a residual voltage (shown on megatune) that fluctuates even with the lambda sensor disconnected from the ecu. When the lambda sensor is connected to the ecu I get the same residual voltage. I have had the loom off the landy on about 6 different occasions and have pinned everything out and checked resistance for good connections and no cross feeding. I have sensor values on megatune that I would expect and look quite good, but then this is the problem, I have looked and looked and tested and tested and I am still no further forward than I was 12 months ago. Zoltan was able to put a wideband lambda on and tune the idle as it was massively rich, we were also able to adjust the spark advance at the bottom of the rev range which cured the pulling way problems that i was experiencing. I haven't got anyone to help as the person that was helping hasn't helped for over 12 months and has run away as they too cannot see whats up. I have run it with a timming gun in the past but when your on your own you run out of hands to test and watch everything at the sametime, this is why I am desperate to find someone that can help me locally as I dare not run the landy and distance due to fear of damaging it. Glenn

As you can see no reply to my post, does no one in the midlands run megasquirt on there Land Rovers or Range Rovers? I have money here to pay someone if they can sort it out. Glenn

Hi all, quick update as I haven't posted for a while as I haven't got any further as I have parked the land rover up and ignored it as I had got fed up of hitting my head on a wall. I did get some help from Zoltan who put a wide band lambda on and we tuned the idle so that we were somewhere near and not massively over fueling, with his help we also moved the ignition advance so that when trying to pull away it didn't stall everytime and now will pickup and move off without any issues. It was used last in the snow and was nice to use it again we got maybe 9mpg max which was crippling and the smell of fuel burnt your throat and stung your eyes after a bit but it didn't get stuck and although the starter was a little lazy at below -10 it started with the 3 attempts which I have listed before with out fail. The last day of the snow I cracked the screen on a snow laded branch that was stuck out of the hedge and it hasn't moved since. I am looking for some local help, is there no one in the warwickshire/worcestershire area that can give me a hand and try and workout whats up as I am fedup with it. Glenn

The log was done after the land rover was parked for 2-3 hours so water temp wouldn't have been right down, it was after 8pm in the evening so the air temp would have been cool and was slightly raining. The temp on the dash rose and held at operting temp and the guage on megatune was showing in the 80's, the temp rises quickly then maintains so I would be surprised if the stat wasn't operating properly I am surprised the datalog shows the temp so low. The landy sounds fine at idle except for a bit lumpy. when it is cold it sounds as though it has a slight knock at idle but smoother, when warm this knock goes and is more lumpy. when cruising at constant throttle ok. when you go on or off throttle you have this trough in rpm when it goes down then backup and it will then splutter and cough at the bottom of the trough (it is almost as though you loose 1/2 the cylinders), if you are too savage with the throttle it will try to stall, this is there all the time but more noticable/worse when it is cold. You cannot pick the revs up from idle without this dip in rpm and it stumbling. This can be quite frightening as you start to pull out of a junction and it tries to stop, or you are in the middle of the junction without any power. Also when in traffic it is spluttering and buggering about as you crack the throttle just open to ease it along as you are not able to hold the throttle in one position due to the low speed. You cannot start the landy from cold without it starting then stopping, 2nd time start then revs drop stumble then stall or pick backup and away she goes,it will stall 2-3 times from cold depending on how cold it is, leave to warm up a few seconds then rev it a couple of times through the stumble area to help with the dip in revs then off you go. When warm starts everytime doesn't stall. The datalog shoulld have the 02 sensor switched off as it wasn't working which is how I have been running prior to the o2 sensor being added, interesting it is showing 0volts for the 02 sensor in the log when it is displaying this residual volts on the guage. My helper isn't coming today now and as it is torrential rain here it isn't going to get looked at today, will have to be later in the week when the weather is better. But suggestions on what to do and what to look at then greatfully received. Glenn

Thanks John, have emailed it through. Glenn

I have tried to upload the latest log that I have but it has come up that file is too large to upload. Glenn

I think it is right to question the vac on the fuel reg and what difference it would make as I hadn't considered it could be done either way, I assumed as the 3.9 had one it needed to be connected. All suggestions are helpful as I can then try to rule out what is up and hopefully others will be able to read the information and avoid or correct there installs with the help and advice offered. Glenn

When I first set up the land rover I was running bosch water temp and air temp from the alfa twin spark engines, have dozens of them on the shelf. I did the easy therm calcs and updated the s19 file. When I couldn't get it to run properly I then put in a Rover v8 water temp sensor and bought the air temp sensor that Nige gave me the part number for. After installing these I then put the S19 file in for these sensors. Then Nige tested ecu and put on the firmware 029v and the msq for the same sensors that I had been told to install, so I believe they are correct as I have put in exactly what I was told to, but I will dig out the box with the part numbers on later. Tomorrow I will check the VR sensor and toothed arrangement and photograph so all can see. I am not getting lots of resets or spikes of the ecu, like some posts I have read that have problems with the earths and sensors etc, I did 5 miles the otherday and as I pulled into the drive I got a reset which I think was the usb lead moving slightly as the laptop moved, I did the 5 miles the otherway without any. Glenn

Here goes with some answers to the questions so far, The 029v file is the one that Nige put on along with a know good msq file. The land Rover before this was already running the Rover V8 Coolant temp sensor and the correct air temp sensor, so these do not need changing and so no easytherm calcs need to be done. The Vacum hose comes off the back of the plenum next to where the idle control valve used to be and then has a T piece, one going to the fuel reg and the other to the ECU. The ECU was moded for EDIS as per emails and detailed instructions from I think diyautotune in the states, it has also run Niges Land Rover perfectly with this mod carried out. The Tacho output, fan switching, and dual table switching are not connected as I was trying to get the basics right and then add on the more complicated bits after. I can try running the lambda on the multimeter on Sunday as I am having a go on the Landy then. I will also recheck the position of the vr sensor to the toothed wheel and check again that it isn't 180 degrees out, I have in the past marked all 4 spark positions A,B,C,D and checked with a timing gun they were firing at the correct postion. So I dont have to read through everything again how many degrees BTDC should it be firing at idle on No1? I will also try changing the warmup enrichment table to 100% on sunday to see if it will start and run. I will then also post a screen shot of the megatune page so that everyone can see what it is doing and whether it looks right. Glenn