WHO4 MUD

Fixed it was the earth behind the radiator exspantion tank thanks a lot guys mega appreciate the help can't believe I didnt know that was there

hia im having problems with a drop in voltage info ok when i turn on the lights, heater, indicators, window wipers on i get a drop in volts the thing that is getting effected by this is the stereo keeps turning off and if i have all these things running it turns on and off constantly. at the same time running with non of the above on my temp gauge reads correct but when i start turning things on the gauge starts going up the staying high. also horn dosent work thinking about it i havent checked that the resistance when the engine is of but the ingnition lights etc are on reads 6 ohm when the truck is on it reads 50 taking the reading from the fuse of the stereo. has any one got a wire diagram that might help. any suggestions as to finding the problem. Is there a main relay for the power going to all of theys things

I have a 2006 90 and im thinking of changing the cv and possible half shafts they have quite a bit of play in them and i have already changed the rear half shafts and drive flanges as they had play in them as well. what standard cv is good and wont be worse than standard but wont break the bank? I have seen some for £30.00 odd is this about right or should i bit the bullet and get the best e.g. ashcroft and get peice by peice??

one more question if one of the calliper pistons are seized what is the best way of unsiezing it WD40 and a hammer??

cool thanks for that, new discs and pads for the rear and all the wheels balanced, should have thought of that it has been a wile sine i had them balanced.

Hi and Happy New year to you all I was wondering how you I can tell if my brake discs need replacing? My rear pads are defenatly gone on both rear wheels (will be the secound set the tuck has had) one side is down to the metal and the other has got quite alot left id say about 6mm. Truck has done 45,000+ odd and hasn't had new discs. Im regreasing all the wheel bearings (done one corner last night) wile I have the hubs off etc do you think it worth changing the discs? I started checking the wheel bearings because i was getting an intermittent wobble from the rear could this be possible be a warped break disc or would that be more permanent? Many Thanks

for storing your angle grinder(s) the handle is usually hollow if you get some pole/bar at a slight angle mounted on the wall you can just hang them up, but depends if you have the space etc.

Td5' s up and running again it was the trigger wire on starter moter, some 120 grit sand paper and a tooth brush sorted it out. who needs a nano com when you got lr4x4, mega

just checked battery its 12.somthing so its ok there is no clicking on the solenoid front and the alretnator isnt turning over sorry should have made that clear to start with im not shore ive seen an earth for the ecu but will have a gander for it

ok so I've left it for a good half hour and now the glow plug light Isn't coming on

just driven back to house and need to out again but its not starting fuel pump is coming on glow plugs light is coming on checked all fuses under seat and in the dash all good started unplugging and plugging things back in hasent made a difference. havent unplugged and plugg in, in the engine bay yet. really the started moter isnt doing the bussiness. does any one know which relay (if a relay does control the start moter wich one it is. any idears would be greatly appreciated

ok its not all doom and gloom as i want a disco my truck is lifted all the suspension done to it + winch and all that, is it worth me taking everything of rather had selling the truck on its own in its current state. It would be a fair bit of work. any opionions?? also is it easy to sell a standard defender compaired to one thats off road ready??

ive put the shiny one on now, seems they only do the one you can paint and this black one so i guess il see if it canges colour or not, but it looks like its more likly to turn brown :s

hi there ive broken a wheel arch its matt grey ive got another one wich is an offical landrover one but its shiny black and was told that it would weather but will it change colour to grey??? i dont realy believe the guy. im shore it will go matt but it will still be black rather than grey i just want it to look right.

super glue is the best thing for the door seals

ok so i have a sealed Double Cardon Propshaft and the uj's in the double carden are now nakered i realy would like to rebuild them but have been told that if the uj's are gone the joint in the middle would have gone as well so there is no point is this true??? also in the event that this is true where can i get a Greasable Double Cardon Propshaft for sensible money so that it doenest happen again? many thanks

ive moved from OME +2 all round to +5 TF's all round, they are justs as good for damping as the OME and they are pretty hefty. i dont use my truck for any comps or any thing though. on the front i think there is an improvment in articultation wheel drops out much more but thats might just be a plalecebo effect im looking at but it does seem better

hi i have a 2 inch lift its about 2ish years old from devon 4x4 from the challenge kit, the front springs lift 1 inch more than the back its done it from when i got them, was thinking that it might settal down a bit but its not. my truck is a td5 is there any OME spring that will lift it just the 2 inchs rather them the three that im getting. the handling on road is great and offroad nothing realy bothers it so hence why i havent changed it, it would be for astetic reasons and also for saving the bushes as one has died and i think the same one is going again. i have cranked radious arms. just wanted to ask poeple on hear cos sales people some time just want to sell any thing they have so i just want the right thing for my truck. rear shock, my brother has a 90 no lift we put +2 terraferma shock on it, now handels like a race car rather than a boat and articulates better than my truck! problem is that rear shock bush on to the chassis totalt disitergated after doing a small amount of silly things. SO i was wondering could i put +2pin to pin shocks on the rear change the mounts and job done so i dont have to mess around with them again and i might be even better at articulation?? has any one done it?

hi there just a few questions i will be replacing the outriggers on my 1992 D90 very very soon, i have the replacement outriggers it has big tabs either side to go on to the chassi, these i asumeare supose to be cut of then the outrigger welded on. is there a page on here that would have replacing an outrrigger or can some one give me a quick run through of how they have done it (engine gearbox is out of car so is the seat box, floor, wings) also im needing to patch the chassi where the gearbox cross member attaches to the chassi any sugestions i have a reasnoble good idea how im going to do it just would like some confermation.

thats how wet the ecu got all has been working fine up till this point i drove a good 100+ miles afer i had done that, i have checked both the main relay and the fuel pump rely and they are both working, 20amp fuse for the fuel pump had gon so changed that but still it is not running. realy think it might be a blokage in the fuel pipe some where, i dont realy no enought about the td5 to know what to undo and what no to.

just checked all the connection to the ecu and they are all clean on bad corrotion and unplugged and plugged back in every thing elce as well, i havent opened the ecu yet but i dout that water could have got in. the fuel pump is not starting up, usual when you turn the key you get the usual buzzing for it to get up to pressure its not doing that????

ok so just went out for a run with my brother nothing to mad no deep water on any thing but had a loss of power and the engine was definatly running on less than all cylinders now it doesnt want to start.the problem happen when i was goign up a slight incline but nuthing i hadden done 5min before. i had just filled it up before we set out but the tank waswnt total empety before. i think it could be fuel not getting to the engine had gone thought a real deal pupple a week or to ago and stuff could have got in that is my only thought. anyother ideas???? where can i bleed the fuel to the top of the inlet mainifold (and yes i wish i had a 200tdi right now cos id no how i could do it) just read some of the manual do i bleed it bellow the fuel cooler on the manifold (aahhhhh i hate landrover manualss) also the ecu got well, wet as well but all keeped going, where is there a relay or somthing that might now had lost the connection??? any help would be most appreciated

i have just had to remove the whole 200tdi engine in my defender (it needs a rebore ) so i stripped down of the whole front of the truck, im going to wire brush the chassis and give it a lick of paint any advice, i was going to just use black hammarite should i put a lacquer on top of that or what is that best stuff to use i dont want to put everything back together again and it looks sh**. also im after a 1.667 ratio transfere box is there a good place to get one from around surrey/hampshire

i have removed the head for a good service/suspected head gasket failure i had oil puffing out the rocker cover gasket. head has been cleaned up lapped valve in changed valve oil stem seals etc. i put the head back on was checking the gap between the rockers and the top of the valves 0.2mm and im gettting a clicking noice when turning the engine over im pretty shore its when the valves are reseating them selves, ive held the valve spring when the valve is comming back up and its clear the its hitting then reseating.it wasent making any clicking when the engine was running. what to do next?? have the vavle guides replaced or have the vavle seats done (grinded out a little) i only lapped the vavle in with hand tool jobby + another thing i havent had the head skimmed (head is back of now) do you thing its worth doing or will new head gasket be ok? any help would be appreciated