markyboy
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Posts posted by markyboy
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If you're still searching, I know someone who was selling one complete with the T/box. It is/was in Stoke on Trent though. I could make an enquiry to see if it is still for sale if you wanted me to?
I have no idea of the condition, and I doubt whether the seller will either. She "inherited" it from her father, who has been taken into care due to health issues.
let me know if you would like me to make an enquiry for you.
Regards, Mark.
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21 minutes ago, L19MUD said:
Didn't think of this - tried it and its clearly operating as you provide and remove power to it
This has not been a priority this week so further investigation will have to wait
Just a caveat, my solenoid would click, but the plunger could not have been operating normally as it still wouldn't start. I'm not saying yours isn't working, a click would usually suggest it is, but mine was clicking but still not working. Go figure?
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I've also had similar on my 200Tdi. Mine sat on my drive for a couple of years and I would start it and run it every couple of months or so. I used to crack the injector pipes off to bleed it but it seemed very random as to whether it would start or not. In the end I replaced the stop solenoid on the pump, it was working intermittently. No problems after that.
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Try a google search using "LR4x4.com" as part of the search criteria, often works better than the sites own search function.
This one was started in 2009, is that it?
regards, Mark
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I don't know if anyone has already mentioned it, I haven't read every reply in detail? If it was running on its own oil, how do you shut it off? Normally, under those conditions, they keep on running until you either block the air inlet, or they self destruct.
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Those symptoms sound like a faulty servo or vacuum pump.
To test the brake servo, pump the pedal a few times with the engine off to get rid of any residual vacuum. Apply the brakes with the brake pedal then start the engine. If the servo is working, the pedal should sink further down toward the floor when the engine starts. If the pedal does not sink any further, either the servo is faulty or the vacuum pump is kaput.
The vacuum pump could be tested by removing the hose from the servo and placing a thumb/finger over the end of the hose to check for vacuum.
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2 hours ago, joshremlin said:
Hi Les, sorry for digging up a old thread I just didn’t want to create another one.
do you know the torque and angle gauge settings?
Thanks
Hopefully this will help.
https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/engine-torque-settings-12022-c.asp
Regards,
Mark
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15 hours ago, o_teunico said:
Sometimes things go wrong. I want to be prepared just in case.
A neighbour died when working with the high presure suspension of his citroen bx.
That's not the press going wrong, it's Darwin's theory at work.
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9 hours ago, dailysleaze said:
It appears sprinklers aren't believed to work well enough in car parks due to petrol:
That's not what the Chief Fire Officer, who was interviewed on Radio 5 Live, said yesterday.
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17 hours ago, Hybrid_From_Hell said:
Hmm
Already call the top grade builds "Ultra Spec" ...Ultra Spec Ashlocker ....hmmmmmm but then there the ARB too LOL Grrrrrr I am not good at marketing !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Maybe "Le Ballon de Chein F Locker"
?
That would be "Les Couilles de Chein F Locker"
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Les Henson wrote a very good guide for the 200Tdi.
Most of it will apply to the 300Tdi and will serve as an excellent starting point.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=2394&view=findpost&p=24520&hl=%2Bles+%2Bhenson
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I use these. Gets pretty hot where I am so cooling is always an issue. There is two types, thermo contact and thermo resistor..you want this type, contact, resistor is for guages. They simply bolt onto the head/block and are rated about 82/85..thermostat temp. The part number is on the box. You can be really smart and use a lazer temp gauge to find the hottest spot..but I just bolt em on the head somewhere so they touch the jacket...
I'd have thought that would be too low, thermostat opening is at 82 deg IIRC. I would think the fan would be almost permanently on?
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Well several reasons.
1. It wouldn't actually make it any narrower, which is kind of the point.
2. It's illegal in the UK to run 'cut' tyres on the road.
1. You could re-cut it to make the tread narrower.
2. Not if they're commercial tyres of 16" diameter or greater which were designed to be re-grooved it isn't. However, you can only re-cut the existing grooves so you would not be able to sculpt your own pattern as I've suggested above.
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I work in the tyre industry so I have a little knowledge of the subject, although I'm not an expert tyre designer by any stretch of the imagination.
I think there are many problems involved with this, first will be the cost of a mould for what will probably be a tyre that will sell in small quantities due to the niche market it's aimed at.
I think it would have to be a re-mould because the major tyre companies will not want to invest a lot of money for something which will sell in small quantities, so it will take a long time for them to recover their investment. Even a re-mould would need a tyre casing of very similar dimensions to what you want the finished tyre to have. So, if your 190/125-16 tyre doesn't already exist you can't produce a re-mould of those dimensions.
Then there are all the new regulations governing tyre labeling which have recently come into force. It is getting more and more difficult to design tyres which meet the relevant legislation with regards to rolling resistance, wet grip and noise. Gues what the worst tyres are for meeting the legislation? Yup, off road tyres.
Incidentally, by my calculations (which could be wrong as maths was never my strong suit
), your 190/125-16 would measure approx. 34.7" in diameter, not much taller than the 34" you talk about.Seems like a non-starter to me (or at least a very long shot).
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i had this wiring issue wiring my 200tdi into my petrol discovery. on every car i've ever worked on there are 2 ignition fed lives from the back of the ignition switch. the one you want however stays live when cranking. use anything else and you wont be able to start it...
I just used the coil feed when I did this conversion.
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I think its further away than it looks in this picture. I am not worried about it. If it shows any signs of melting ill find a stainless braided jobby to put in its place.
Cheers
Jad
I did wonder whether the picture made it look closer than it actually is.
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Wooh I have a clutch! Not sure if it works under power yet but it does while rotating the engine by hand......
Is that flexi hose not too close to the exhaust? I'd be worried about that melting/burning.
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I usually do them with a slide-hammer and the very small 'internal' 3-leg bearing-puller supplied with the slide-hammer for just this purpose.
Much less-messy than all that buggering about with grease which inevitably gets itself on the face of the flywheel and/or in your hair when it shoots out unexpectedly..
If only I had hair for it to get into!!!
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We all know about how easy it is to set your Defender/Disco/RRC/series tracking with a piece of string or the extending aerial type thingy method, however this is because it seems most poeple are happy with the tracking set 'straight ahead' i.e no toe in or toe out.
My question is, how easy is it to do a car which requires toe in or toe out, using one of the methods above?
I have found this : http://www.crypton.co.za/Tto%20know/Wheel%20Alignment/Wheel%20Alignment%20Simplified.pdf
Now, am I correct in thinking that the table on the third page down has done all the hard work and tells me how many MMs off parallel I need to set the wheels in order to achieve the desired degrees/minutes of toe in toe out?
For example if SWMBO's car has 13" wheels and needs 0.5 degrees (30 minutes) toe in, according to the table I need to set the wheels around 3mm 'in' (off parallel) at the front of the wheel?
Would that be 3mm across the two sides (1.5mm each side) or 3mm either side?
Any advice much appreciated, I have lost all faith in tyre centres etc
Generally, (apart from in racing circles) toe figures are quoted as "total toe". So 3mm would equate to 1.5mm per wheel.
Contrary to what elbekko says (no offence intended), 3mm is within the realms of "normal" for most vehicles.
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Hi Guys,
Thanks to all who contributed, I sorted it last night. Daren't tell you what the problem was. Low fluid level
The thing is I had checked it and believed there was plenty in, the reservoir was 2/3rds full, above the seam on the plastic body. However, this obviously wasn't enough. I checked the switch operation with my meter and it worked perfectly.
So I topped it up and hey presto, no warning light.
I'm going to skulk away, in an embarrassed fashion, to a dark corner now.
Thanks for your help.
Mark.
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Many thanks for all the help guys.
From what has been said it is looking like it is the low fluid level switch, it certainly has one of these as i looked the reservoir last night to check the level.
I'll take the level switch out tonight to check the operation, I can put my multimeter across the terminals to see if it is open circuit.
Once again many thanks.
Oh and
at Reb's last comment. -
Not sure on a, but on my 110, this light is connected to the PDWA switch on the bulkhead. I have no level float in the fluid reservoir and no handbrake switch.
Hi Reb,
Is the PDWA the valve that I am referring to as a brake proportioning valve?
I've seen a valve on the chassis leg on the offside rear of the engine compartment, but it has no wires/switch.
Thanks for the help.
Mark.
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Usually the float gets stuck in the reservoir cap. Pull the wires off, remove the cap and make sure the float moves freely.
HTH
Mo
Thanks Mo,
The car has stood for the best part of 3 years so this is a likely scenario, I'll check it tonight.
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), your 190/125-16 would measure approx. 34.7" in diameter, not much taller than the 34" you talk about.
at Reb's last comment.
NRC6096 master cylinder plumbing question
in Series Forum
Posted · Edited by markyboy
Despite the difference in size of the unions, the brake pipes are the same size. It is also true that the Master cylinder has a single bore size.
On a SWB Land Rover Series 3 with dual circuit brakes, both pipes go into the PDWA (Pressure Differential Warning Actuator) valve, and from there they go to front and rear axles.
If you have a look at the page below, it suggests that the rearmost brake line (nearest the servo) does indeed supply the front brakes after passing through the PDWA, whilst the foremost line supplies the rear. This would make sense based on my knowledge of the master cylinder (I've just refurbed mine), as the rearmost portion of the master cylinder operates momentarily earlier than the foremost part.
http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/parts_books/series3/5_suspension_steering_brakes.pdf
HTH, Mark.