maigaard

Hi, thanks for the tip on imp/metric. I bought the ARB RD127 and metric bearings for it. Didnt purchase shafts, I am trying to use the original shafts from the 1986 RRC. The funny thing is that the LH side is OK. Fixed the RH side for now by extending the splined section about half a cm with an angle grinder. There's so much snow here now, I just needed to get it running and go play :-) When the snow is gone I might try to transplant all the outer axle parts (hub, stub axle etc) over from the 1990 RRC axle I have also, which has the slightly shorter shafts with separate drive flange. /Peter

that's the rear axle of course, in case that wasnt clear from the prev. post /Peter

Hi, I am fitting an ARB (RD127) to a 1986 RRC V8 EFI and have run into trouble. I've built the diff and fitted the diff to the axle. But when fitting the drive shafts, the RH shaft (the short one) is slightly too long (or the splined area of the shaft is too short). I've got the solid drive shafts (no separate drive flange), part # 571882. I also happen to have a similar drive shaft from a 1990 RRC (part # FTC870) in the workshop, which a bit shorter and the splined area is longer. That may fit, but has a bulge on the axle, so it cant be slid into the axle housing. Is it so that the 10 spline ARB is only made to fit FTC870 drive shafts, and not 571882 ? Any tips how to proceed ? Thanks, Peter

great tip about the resistors in place of the fuel temp sensor. Will try that out. /Peter

Hi, greetings from Sweden. I installed MegaJolt & Edis8 some months ago in an RRC 3.9, 14CUX. Runs great, pulls well, always starts. The problem : When really warm, e.g. after 30 min highway driving or off-roading, the engine dies immediately after a restart. It doesnt stall during driving, but if I turn it off and then restart, it will start up fine, and then immediately die. It always starts again, but I need to give a bit of throttle after it starts to keep it alive. It then settles to a low idle of 500-550rpm. It needs to be really warm for this to happen. If I just start it up from cold and let it idle for 10-15 min, then the idle settles to a more reasonable 650-700rpm. I am running a very slightly modified version of one of the "standard 3.9" maps posted here, I'll post mine once I get it copied over from the laptop in the garage. What should I do in order to raise the idle RPM when warm ? - Do the "setting basic idle" procedure for the 14CUX (havent tried that yet) ? - Cheat the ECU into thinking the AC is on (no AC is fitted) anf let the ECU raise it that way ? - Advance the timing in the 600rpm area ? All temp sensors and the IAC valve are new, they went in with the Megajolt system. A new standard cam was also fitted at that time. /Peter

Good evening, I've come as far in my Megajolt installation, as to test drive the Range Rover. I've got solid 10 degree advance on Edis only, and I've got it running on different MJ advance maps as well. I'm not really sure what to do with these options though (sorry about the image, you need to zoom to read it) : From reading through this excellent thread, I've got as much as setting the cylinders to 8, and cranking advance to 10. What's the PIP filter about, and what should it be at ? Also, even though I set the cylinders to 8, and press "write", the RPM gauge in MJLJ shows twice the real amount of RPM's. But the advance vaules in the table view jump about at the correct values in the run-time view. Should I just ignore the gauge, or any hints to correct it ? Regards from Sweden, Peter

my Megajolt installation is (slowly) progressing, will be needing an ignition map file for the MJ soon. Would someone be kind enough to email me a working map for an RR 3.9 EFI 14 CUX (new standard cam, no mods) ? Not sure if my mail address shows up in here, but pls mail to peter AT maigaard DOT com. /Peter

Thanks, I see your point with the load on the shaft. I've trimmed another dizzy less extensively and will use that instead. Just need to find that toothpaste tube then :-) Does is matter which way the housing is turned/rotated when dropping it back into the timing cover, as there is only one oil hole in the dizzy housing ? Is that tiny oil hole the only way the shaft is lubricated, by the way ? /Peter

Hi all, greetings from Sweden. I've been following this thread with great interest, but in the end decided to go Megajolt instead of Megasquirt on a RR 3.9. As part of prepping the engine for Megajolt, I've cut down an old dizzy, see pic. The dizzy axle originally runs in two brass bearings (top & bottom). Cutting it down as far as I did, the axle felt a bit loose in only the bottom bearing, so I removed the top bearing from the cut-away part and pressed it down next to the other one. And I drilled an extra oil hole in the housing, as the original one is now blanked off by the extra bearing (that extra hole was drilled after taking the picture). Is this what others have been doing as well, or should I trim down another dizzy further up in order to retain the top bearing in its original place ? I am also a bit concerned about not having the axle fixed in the top anymore, but is it so that it just rests in the oil pump slot, and all is well ? Finally, I plan to seal it off with 3/8 brass plug, as they seem to fit the inner diameter of the housing, but there are perhaps better solutions out there ? /Peter