V8 Freak
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Posts posted by V8 Freak
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Had a couple of version of that type HOG (Black Bullet elsewhere), and both still going strong in other vehicles.
(Upgraded to better resolution etc.)
The GPS doesn't work well through heated screens and you don't really need anything that records location / speed.
(May incriminate you as well !)
Great picture quality and very compact cameras.
Currently using LS460W.. Really good low light capability and cracking image quality.
Neil
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Mo, you mean this, right?
Is the front stretched to fit additional Superchargers and intercoolers for the 200Tdi that's probably powering it
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I've seen a few of those comments Ross and they are generally supported with "I want it to look butch / right / Buff"
Cosmetics.. Very few of those shown look as if they leave tarmac...
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If you do go the new route and go for the standard window and fittings again, before you bolt the old light back on, sick some insulation tape across the areas where it lands on the glass / heater element to stop the vehicle vibration rubbing through the tracks etc.
It's where they normally fail first.
Neil
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Mark,
I think the OP has a post that has come away from the tracks so no power into the tracks on the screen...
I tried that paint on mine where tracks were worn through before changing the glass but without success.....
Neil
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I think (Memory failing a little) that someone actually manage to solder a connection on without cracking the glass.... (Can't find the link just now)
Other than that, search for conducting glue if such a thing exists....
On a legal point, I believe the light only needs to work if it's fitted... So as a short term solution, remove the fitting completely until you have a solution.
You may be able to find an LED version to stick to the glass in the same area and then run wires around the window rubber and connect in the door.
Mine has something like this, fitted when I had LandyGlass fitted. Try somewhere like "Bolt On Bits" etc.
Neil
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I think I saw somewhere that Air Con is something like an 8 HP drain on an engine...
Add in your already higher ambient temps, Air con sapping power / MPG, and both rad & condenser chucking out heat, I would expect fan to lock in.....
My MPG generally dives when I use Air con.... Something like 28 MPG averafe down to 25 MPG when air con on all the time in hotter parts of Europe etc.
I suspect Air con is your hit on MPG, not the viscous fan...
Neil
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I put another starter in for simplicity and not had a problem since.... I'll pull apart and refurb the solenoid on the old one and post up pictures of what I find....
Thanks for all the feedback...
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Should be able to swap with the one from your old t/box
Use penetrating fluid liberally and gradually get the whole thing to spin in the hole and then start to lever it up slowly, ideally while still spinning the whole unit.
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Headgasket ...
... joking
Phew......
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I live on top of a hill Mo.. So long as I get home, I should still be ok for Saturday
May have a fiddle Friday night and just clean the contacts up while I wait for the kit.. (Monday delivery according to Eblag....)
Still need to sort the floppy Hi-Low lever..... Hopefully just loose and nothing fallen off & lost....
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Great feedback.. Thanks.....
I hope it can hold together until Sunday when I get a chance to get under the truck...
Was fine, first turn of the key, this morning once again....
I'll go for the solenoid as that seem quite low cost and will check the wiring to the solenoid as suggested... (Thanks for the link Stephen..)
If it's still there after that I'll pull the dash out and change the back of the key barrel....
After that..... Errr....
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I've had a problem twice in the last week and been trying to think it through and thought I'd ask the collective experience on here to check my thinking....
The scenario...
Truck is a Td5 90 circa 125k miles.... Starts on the first turn every time.. (Well until Sunday afternoon and this evening....)
Turn key...
Normal lights..
Turn key to crank after heater coil light goes out.
Accessories / sockets go out
Relay clicks
Starter doesn't spin.....
Sunday, switch off and back on... Fired & ran.
Tonight, switched off, back on, nothing... Several times...
4th or 5th time it fired normally....
I think the key barrel is ok....
I think this because the relay clicks when I try to crank, the current draw /ECU switches off the accessories etc.
My questions....
Does this sound like a duff battery in the plip? (Will carry the spare for next few days and change battery in current plip as soon as I can get a battery)
Could it be the immobiliser not letting the truck crank due to battery being low?
Could it be the starter solenoid?
Any challenges or comments on my observations?
Anyone had the same experience and can offer a solution?
Neil
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Cool.......
Should be waterproof and if you hit the wall when birching yourself, shouldn't show !!
(What will the younglings reading this think I wonder....)
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Does public property cover a lamppost and a small stretch of tarmac??
Everything else around me is privately owned and my camera out front doesn't cover any buildings, windows, gardens etc.
Interested as this wasn't mentioned in any documentation provided with the cameras...
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The 99 relay a direct replacement in my TD5 and working well 2 years on...
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I've opted for the Crystal type rear reflectors and Osram night breakers....
Pretty good light and definitely good enough to drive with in the countryside....
To save my light switch I plan to fit relays but the man reason is the switch and not expecting a dramatic illumination change....
I like the look of the LED lights but think they are "too stealable" and to date not seen any vast improvement in the light quality over my current setup.
Now if I could have what a colleague has in his new AMG 63.... That would be worth an upgrade.... It recognises and shields drivers ahead and oncoming from the headlight glare while offering something like main beam for all other areas of the road in front.. Very adaptable and very effective!!
http://techcenter.mercedes-benz.com/en/adaptive_high_beam_assist/detail.html
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Is this the chosen colour scheme for the bathroom Mo??
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Definitely 8....
I think my V8 had offset bolt holes so it only went on in one place for timing....
TD5 has a locating lug.
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Ah.. So not offset pattern....
My bad...
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Just south of Cambridge.....
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I have one and could measure but it's an off-set pattern than only fits in one place, and the flywheel has a locating lug that needs to match up as well....
(I'm not confident my measurement would be suitable to effect a balanced flywheel when attached either...)
If you can arrange collection you can have it for nothing to measure from....
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I've never had to bed a clutch in before, but my last clutch change I did experience slip initially...
Drove for about 5 miles in a spirited fashion backing off when slip occurred. Drove sensibly for a while to let it all cool off and it's not slipped since.
I think there would be a risk of slipping too much, generating too much heat and potentially baking / glazing the surface...
I've got a re-mapped TD5 with VNT and bigger intercooler all from IRB so it has the power and torque to test a standard clutch... But all ok so far !!
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There is free software out there for PC that does similar..
I use a version of this...
https://imageresizer.codeplex.com/
Re-sizing means that users reading from mobile data don't have to download big images just to review a thread....
A little bit of work up front benefits all
How long will oil keep once opened?
in International Forum
Posted
Rich.. We don't store oil in them just in case the pump is damaged... But still working fine after 4+ years of use....