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V8 Freak

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Everything posted by V8 Freak

  1. A standard TD5 should manage a 1.2 ratio change well enough, but if you've gone for bigger diameter tyres, you may wish to look into tweaking the MAP. Don't try loading a Disco map onto a Defender ECU as this will cause all manner of issues. There are many good programmers out there that can help with a decent map, good power and torque increases, no excesses of smoke, and the really clever ones will also be able to write out the MAF, correct the temp gauge readings (They don't go into the red til 105C as standard !!!) and correct the Cruise Control parameters to work with the new gearing ratios...
  2. I ended up leaving the V5 as it was and confirmed the change with my insurer. No premium change applied, so seems no-one is interested in a change that uses all Land Rover parts...
  3. When I converted mine to Auto, I called DVLA and didn't get any advice other than writing to them asking what I should do. I wrote and followed up and was asked to call the DVLA to speak to someone. I checked with my insurance and advised them of the change and no change of premium etc. Call them and see.
  4. Bit of an update, hopefully solved.... At the weekend I changed the FPR, bleed valve etc in the fuel line at the oil filter block and replaced crank sensor again, although it didn't look too soiled this time. I then took it for a long drive to get it all warmed up and to a point where I could replicate the problem. After 35 miles I got a total cut, MIL light immediately on but dead engine.... Coasted to a hat, luckily in Lay-By..... Waited, started and it failed again soon after. I swapped in my spare ECU (Codes already learned for this purpose, so only a 2 minute job) and set off again. I did another 65 miles without issue. No fault codes registered in the original ECU. So at the moment it looks like the ECU has an issue that manifests when it's warmed up. I'll finish the pampering with a full oil change, greased props etc. and then the Oliver can take it for a nice long run before investing in a replacement / repaired ECU. (Hopefully)
  5. Really looking forward to seeing this all running again Tim....
  6. I seem to remember buying a generic loom with it and then wiring it in. Not too many wires involved. Need break in the feed from speedo to ECU (Pin 13 I think) and the Cruise wiring isn't too bad.
  7. Me too Mike... I replaced the thin one that's standard as it is originally fitted from above and tucks inside the top lip of the rear Cross member. I went for a decent aluminium tank guard that bolts up from below. Sooooooo much simpler.
  8. Well.. One of the pressure testing kits you found arrived yesterday @reb78. No opened to package yet but will offer feedback after the weekend. I'll test it out on the outgoing FPR and see what that's doing / not doing and fingers crossed I won't need to drop the tank and replace the noisy pump... Bloomin hate the standard tank guard on the Td5 90....
  9. The seals and injector loom allegedly done recently and there is no issue with the running or starting.. No evidence of air in the system etc. Rocker cover has been off recently. Looks like a new gasket. Cannot check pressure without a way of measuring / adding something into the system. I don't own anything but willing to take donations The ECU / sensors don't record pressure. ECU only registers fuel temperature. All other parameters are air temp / pressure /water temp related.
  10. Hi all... I've had hands on this vehicle and still no definitive solution, so I'll share what I know and have observed in the hope this can be solved.... Loom - All that's accessible from under the vehicle looks in very good order. No chaffing or breaks in the convoluted tubing that covers the loom. Checked from seat box, over rear of gearbox / Transfer box and along the side of the gearbox. (Still to lift cubby and check over gearbox) No oil at all in ECU Plugs. Fuel Pressure Regulator is leaking minimally but had covered the crank position sensor in diesel & oil. Fuel pump is quite loud. When driven, the engine just cuts on overrun. No coughing or hesitation, just dies. (So far, engine / fuel is hot / warm from a journey when this happens - Not replicated yet when cold) When you recycle the ignition the MIL light, oil pressure and battery symbols come on as normal, but no glow plug symbol. Engine will crank but not fire. Recycle again (Sometimes takes a minute) and the same, but with glow plug symbol, then it will run normally. Done so far.... Nanocom - no recorded faults. Normal readings when running. Throttle pots returning constant numbers through the range. Changed fuel filter and purged. Although noisy, purged well and started after two consecutive purges. Changed crank position senor changed. After doing this we could not replicate the fault. Oliver drove home and got most of the way and it happened again, but more often rendering the vehicle undriveable. Big Yellow Taxi and back to me. Yesterday it started fine and ran. No issues, but not able to replicate the long drive / warm the vehicle past a few miles. FPR, air bleed valve and return valve ordered and coming to be changed this weekend. I'm planning to get eyes on the rest of the loom and then aim to run it up to temp and try to replicate the problem. Assuming it isn't FPR and cuts out, and I can make it happen regularly, I'll pop in my spare ECU and see if it replicates again. (ECU ready and security learned, so quick swap and car will remain at working temp.) If not ECU, prime suspect then is going to be fuel pump. Any suggestions why the ECU / system is not lighting the core plug lights when it won't start? Even when hot the TD5 shows this on the dash, but won't fire them etc. Anything obvious I should check?
  11. It's just the 110 going through the self healing process.. It looks like corrosion.. Leave it another 25 years and it will be pristine !
  12. I have ARB's front and rear and under loaded situations they do not restrict flex much at all but do offer stability on road etc. It's always going to be a case of one thing will compromise another.. Nothing will ever be amazing off-road, climbing rocks and immediately the best mannered road vehicle. Each of us choose a compromise.
  13. I'd still have one if it arrived free... (Can't afford these luxuries otherwise..) Would be a good touring vehicle I recon, regardless of it's off-road credentials.
  14. Lake District 2019 - Credit Dicky.....
  15. Although in a different league, we have a Leaf and it's a great commute vehicle... Quick, quiet but not so good for range. 100 miles real world if you take it easy ! They will be very useable one day. Still can't see them taking over from IC and expect Hydrogen to be developed far more longer term....
  16. There was a post @Daan did a while back where he explained that he almost always greases his props off the car and had had virtually no UJ Failures in years. He uses a vice to pressure the cups that are greased to close up and force grease to the other cups.
  17. It's not a great deal of money, replace the MAP sensor. The ECU does have a fall back map for MAF failure and in some cases people do report an improvement, but in the majority of cases it will result in a lack lustre performance. Get a decent brand of MAF.. Siemens etc. I drove with a straight through centre section for a few years and have since reverted as it was a bit "boomy" and droned on long journeys.
  18. It should rev freely and happily pull over 70 in standard form... Is air filter clean / does it blow black smoke under acceleration / under load? Does it feel like it's running smooth? (May still need to change the injector loom in under the rocker cover..) If you run without MAF, it should feel quite dead for 15 seconds then give a reasonable drive, but nothing as good as with a working MAF. MAP sensor will affect it if dead... Cleaned doesn't mean working ! Do you have anyone local to put diagnostics on it?
  19. The little connector bottom left of the picture is you reverse light switch. Simple thing... You should have a live wire and earth that is connected to your reverse light. When reverse is selected, it closes the switch and powers the reverse light. Check if either of those lights are positive when the engine is running. (I don't have a wiring diagram to hand to check the colour the wire should be) As said above, joining them together when the engine is running / ignition live should light the revers light is the correct wires.
  20. If you could demonstrate the process on your vehicle first It'd be appreciated !!
  21. Please confirm it's a TD5 and do you have a wire popping up through the access plate under the centre seat / cubby box. (Near the front of the panel, left side of vehicle) If there is a collection of shielded wires there follow to the end and hopefully they will have your OBD socket on there. If no wires popping up through the panel they may have dropped it under the panel, above the transfer box, for additional security !
  22. It's been like this since I've had it Ed... This pic is from the winch installation something like 5 years ago... I've climbed all over it and the angle of dangle hasn't altered so don't think it's related to anything heavy on the wings.. 🤣
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