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Harrod

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Posts posted by Harrod

  1. Hi

    I've got the Carling Hazard switch and rear Wash/Wipe switch to install but can't find any info on which wires go to where on the switches, I can get the multimeter out tomorrow if i need to but thought it would be worth asking, google has kicked up some info but not enough to piece it together yet. I'll write this up for the tech archive once i've worked it out!

    Thanks,

    Dave

    EDIT

    I think i've got the wiring for the wash/wipe switch sorted. Can anyone confirm this? Sorry about the chippy pic, but its late!

    post-1512-127240803633_thumb.gif

  2. Hmmm, maybe I should have worded my question a little differently.

    What I meant was that, when the split charge is "on", will the meters both show the same voltage (14v from the alternator), rather than show the actual battery voltage - even if one of the batteries is more discharged than the other (ie after using a winch etc)

    Ah ok, i'm with you. If the alternator is charging both batteries then they will both show 14v. Current can only travel one way through the split charger, it is effectively a massive diode so they should show the individual batteries voltages even when the split charger is allowing the alternator to charge the aux battery. Whether or not you'll see a voltage drop on the second battery while it is being charged and used by a winch or other high draw device i dont know. I'll let you know when i've got it in and working!

  3. it should be accurate at all times. If the Split charge isn't connecting the two batteries they will both show the charge across the individual batteries, if the split charge is active then it will show the charge across the two batteries which will be the same, i.e around 14v if the alternator is charging them correctly.

    hth

    Dave

  4. Hi all,

    I'm about to embark on a dash tidy up/ install of a mud console and have just thrashed out the details of the contura switches i'm going to install. I'll have (in no order) a Hazard switch, Rear wash wipe, Driving lights, rear work light, interior/map reading light switch, winch power and winch in/out.

    The wiring i've got so far looks something like the following, can you guys have alook and make sure i haven't missed anything obvious? I'll be installing a fusebox behind the passenger seat along with an isolator switch for the main battery and a split charger. Does anyone make extension looms to move the hazard switch?

    Thanks guys,

    Dave

    lr_wiring.pdf

  5. Evening all...

    I've got some major issues with my lights. The situation is as follows:

    1. With the lights off, and reverse gear selected i get LH Indicator on full time, fog light on, reverse light on.

    2. With lights off, indicating left i get LH Ind, HeadLights, Reverse light and fog light flashing.

    3. With lights on, i get LH Indicator on full time, Fog light and reverse light on. Cant indicate left.

    4. with lights off, fog light on i get as in no 3.

    Groovy! good news is that whilst playing i got my interior light, clock, horn and full beam flash back! anyone with any ideas on what could be wrong? I've tried changing the hazard switch as i know that can cause problems but no change.

    Also, i found a wire which was white with a purple stripe in the engine bay, not connected to anything but very much live. not good whenits bouncing around off the fuel filter.

    Many thanks for any insight!

  6. Haven't really thought about it all fully, just throwing some ideas around. i was going to use an FIA Isolator with a resistor (i think?) to protect the alternator as mentioned in other threads here.

    As for switches... i'm gonna try and find the money for carling technology switches [homer]mmmmm..... switches....[/homer] and i believe they all have indicators in it.

    I'll have to check the data sheet for the SCR on that one. Haven't looked for a switch for the jump switch, but have seen some isolators that can take 5000amps for 5 secs, maybe they would suit.

    thanks

  7. Hi all,

    I've been looking at split charging and installing some auxillary circuits into the truck, and as such have come up with the following diagram. Could an adult look over it and make sure i havent made any glaring errors / suggest anything i've forgotten or that could be a good idea? I think the diagram is fairly obvious, and i havent done any calcs for ratings of anything yet!

    Also does anyone know of any battery protectors that automatically disconnect the load if the voltage drops too low? i've got one but it only copes with 20 Amps.

    Thanks!

    Truck_wiring.pdf

  8. Well i'd just like to say that once again the knowledge present on this forum shines through!

    I grafted a 300tdi alternator on today, with a minimum of bad language too :D and i'm now back up and running.

    So thankyou, once again to all that helped! and if it turns out the parts i've ordered will fix the old alternator i will just have to graft it on to provide charging for my winch battery!

  9. cheers for the info, i'm gonna look at the 300tdi alternator tonight and see if i can graft it on. I've seen some posts refering to beefing up the charging wire, one said to run it from the alternator to the starter motor, and one said you can go straight to the battery. i think i'd prefer the battery method if i can, sounds easier for access etc. is this correct?

    ta!

  10. well it started the other night with a bit of light squeeling (read howling like a dying banshee) and i thought it might be the belt, so halfords was raided and a new belt fitted. no squeeling, however when i switched the truck off the alternator light came on and stayed on when i removed the keys. somethings not right! took it to the local garage to be informed that its probably the diodes in it stuffed. makes sense says i, and its still showing 13.4v so i risked it for a biscuit and set off home. now the light is on, although dimly, when the ignition is on, the voltage has dropped to about halfway on the guage (thanks, land rover, for not putting numbers on the piggin guage!) but isn't dropping any more so i think it must still be kicking out some charge.

    The photos i've found of the a127 look more like the one on there, so i might get a repair kit and give it a go. gotta be better than 90 odd quid, and if it'll give me some time for pay day to come round!

    i do also have a 300tdi engine sat in the workshop waiting for fitting to my 110, might look and see if that can be rotated into place, although again the pulley will have to be changed, and i'm sure the wiring wont match but that, also, might be worth a go. i'll just have to charge teh battery before i leave and make sure its light when i come home!

    edit: this i believe is the A127 and look very similar to the one i've got : clicky[/url

  11. Evening all

    After a rather emotional drive 130 miles with no alternator (well, it was there in spirit!) i need to find a new one! can anyone tell me if the one listed on lrseries as AMR4247 is the right one? its picture shows it with the serpentine belt of a 300tdi. the one i need has the hinge type mounts at the top, the bolt to the adjuster on the bottom, and 2 studs for wires, one with 2 thicker brown wires on, 10 mm spanner job and one with one brown and yellow strip wire, 7 mm spanner.

    Also, am i likely to have damaged anything else running it on an alternator thats dying/dead?

    thanks for your help!

  12. i agree completely. I went with sureterm because they had a rep as being a good insurer for modded LRs. a quote from elephant for a standard 90 came in at ~£800 if it was standard, 3rd party. so i was chuffed with ~£500 fully comp with some extras for a modded 90. Good things never last!

    Poor show indeed. I'm waiting for their response to my complaints when they told me so will keep you posted, and will especially find out why the mods were unacceptable, i.e. age or experience etc.

    thanks for your recommendations for good companies, this just goes to show that a good report will reach a few, a bad one will reach many!

  13. Hi all

    So the torture of dealing with insurance companies is with me once more! Prior to buying my 200tdi 90 i got a quote from Sureterm, and to make sure they knew the score i disclosed every mod that i was aware of. Then i bought the truck, insured the truck again telling them what mods it had. So then they send me paperwork, i fill said paperwork in with all the mods on (no different to what i told them. twice!) and they phoned me back saying they couldnt insure me :angry: .

    When i asked reasons why they said the mods were unacceptable to the insurance company :o . when asked what mods so i could perhaps revert to original to keep them happy i was told all of them. All its had is a 200tdi instead of a 19j, 300tdi rear disc axle a winch bumper and an x-eng handbrake (which is now awesome after i changed the handbrake cable which snapped on a hill! but thats another story..) so surely its much safer than a standard 19j to 200tdi conversion?

    So anyway the long and short of it is that if they can dig out both conversations and prove i told them about the mods straight up i get my money back but no insurance. To complete the picture i'm 23, male, no dependants, in the forces so have experience of driving defenders, i have a BORDA certificate of proficiency (or similar... .need to digg it out) from a course run at a land rover experience center for us and 3 yrs no claims. one claim and one TS10 :ph34r: that are now out of the 5 yrs.

    Any ideas where to get insurance/how to make sure this doesnt happen again!?

    thanks for listening, feels good to have a rant!

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