calvin

If you are looking at those cruising speeds with original 4 speed box then as already suggested, bigger wheels AND old range rover (or old disco 1) diffs. Different ratios which will give you a more relaxed cruising speed.

have just worked out what is wrong after my diff change. All those folks who suggested a ratio mismatch were on the money. I have just counted the teeth on the crown and pinion wheels on the wrecked diff i removed and they are 46 teeth on the crown and 13 on the pinion wheel which works out as a 3.54:1 ratio = Range Rover rather than the 4.7:1 expected of a series. So sometime in the past some kind person has swapped in range rover diffs (probably when it got the diahatsu diesel in). So i just need to swap out the rear diff with an old Range Rover one. Another job for another weekend I suppose. Thanks to everybodys contributions they all help the old grey matter. cheers

i tried that and nearly took my foot off. i am starting to think that something nasty has occured with the halfshaft or with the front diff. (there goes another one!) the rear diff when i took it out was a right off, there was chips of different sizes out of the teeth and the some areas where there were no teeth at all. i am beginning to wonder if this picture is repeated in the front diff. a job for next weekend i suppose.

right, tried reversing, jacking wheels up, and then finally got all 4 wheels off the ground and then tried running it in gear in 4wd. should all 4 wheels have been turning? what i had was the front passenger side and rear driver side spinning and the front driver and rear passenger wheel not moving, it would move if the engine was revved but only a little bit and then stop. tried this in forward and reverse with no difference. doesnt sound like straight wind up. any ideas? i have free wheeling hubs fitted on the front, what would be the symptoms of one of those staying stuck in free and the other being engaged?

i have just replaced the rear diff on my series 3. when the rear diff broke i removed the rear prop and run on front wheel drive through the transfer box on high ratio 4WD for a bit. Now i have both diffs back on when i try any 4WD the steering wheel pulls all over the place it feels like the transmission is locking up and sounds like it is going to come apart. is this transmission wind up? if so how do you 'unwind'? if not what could it be?

cheers for this, i will keep an eye out for the photos

has anyone swapped the steering for a series to a more modern system (with power steering ) with a collapsing steering column and cutting out the relay? i have seen some info about this using non landrover steering boxes mounted to the outside of the chassis, but i am not clear if you can still use the upper part of the steering column or do you have to replace the whole lot with one from another vehicle (or will something from a defender go in) as i would like to keep the original series 3 wheel. some insight or advice would be useful. cheers

i am looking to fit a 200tdi into a series(using original gearbox ). one thing that puzzles me is the rad and intercooler. which do i use? do i take the intercooler and rad from the disco, or just the intercooler, if it is just the intercooler where do i mount this and with what rad? i seen a post on another forum which mentioned that they put their intercooler infront of the radiator. how is this done ?( i would like to keep the choping of bodywork to a minimum) if anyone has any experience of fitting 200tdi into a series i would appreciate some pointers or if you have one fitted to your landy some pictures of the layout in the engine bay would be appreciated cheers

where about are you?

cheers for that i will get busy and fit one.

does anyone know if UK law would have any problems with fitting standard inertia seat belt to the centre seat of my series 3? i have just fitted them to the drivers and passenger sides mounted on the bulkhead and they are fine. i would like to do this as it would be safer than just a lap belt. cheers

I have just replaced my knackered gearbox on my SWB with a 'pre owned' one. (see other post re all the fun i had doing this) and the box i have in jumps out of first. all other gears are fine, it is just first, (it does occur in lo ratio as well). If you push the gear lever to try and get it back in you can hear the gears crunch,(this is with the clutch depressed). it is not a problem to get another box but as i have just fitted this one and would like to avoid all the hassle of pulling it out and putting another one in. anyone hazard a guess what may be up with this one and if they have an idea, any ideas of what could be done to fix it with the box in the vehicle?? in anticipation calvin

with regard to keeping the series 111 it depends on the price you paid. i bought mine at a knockdown price fully in the knowledge that the gearbox was knackered. after some advice from this forum i decided to change the box, i got a 'pre owned' box from a local independant landrover garage for about £100 and changed it over myself. (the warrenty was if the replacement box had any probs i coudl exchange it for another one) all in all this has probably taken about 2 weeks of evenings after work and one day each weekend (weather permitting). it hasnt required loads of specialist tools, i got plenty of advice on bits i got stuck on from this forum and from the lro forum, but othersies followed the haynes manual. to tell you the truth it was actually a lot easier than a gearbox change i did on a transit horsebox a couple of years ago!! so if you dont mind the work and have a a fairly good set of tools i would recommend that you get a second hand box and change it, if you dont fancy this just sell the whole vehicle but you may make a loss on it as any buyer will factor in the cost of changing the box themselves. hope this helps cheers

cheers for that.

i am in the process of removing the gearbox on my series 111 and seem to have got stuck. i cant seem to get anything on the bolts that hold the rear propshaft on at the transmission brake end of the box. i cant get a socket on to any of them and cant get a standard spanner on. the bolts on thefront shaft were a pain but i managed to get them off with a bit of patience a ring spanner and open ender. this wont work this way. any hints or tips for this, and also what is the exact size of the bolts, i want to be sure that i dont end up rounding them off with the wrong sized tool. cheers in anticipation

i have just bought a series three cheap as the gearbox was dead. the previous owner gave a story of a loud metal on metal noise and then the vehicle stopped moving. engine runs shifter selects gears but no movement, with loud noise. drained the oil from the gearbox, very little oil came out, but a lot more metal bits came out, looks like the remains of the springs from the synchro ring. would the loss of all three springs of a sychro ring would result in total loss of function of the box? if its not the springs off the synchro ring what would cause such a failure? and is it worth fixing or just replace the unit? any hints, tips or experiences would be useful. thanks calvin county durham UK