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  1. Thanks - all tyres are nearly new - no uneven wear and virtually all the same amount of tread. Back tyres were both at 37psi - front were both at 40psi, so I added extra to the rears - all now at 40psi. It is still doing it. I've unplugged the larger plug on the Haldex unit - which has reduced the issue but it is still evident - I was under the impression that it would be gone altogther if it was a Haldex unit once it is unplugged? I had a good play around and the only difference I could find was that the rear nearside caliper still had play in it after using the brakes to come to a stop. I took it off and found the bottom sliding pin was not really sliding, so I sorted that and reassembled but that has made no difference to the noise.
  2. I think I've got a Haldex issue on our FL2. When driving slowly and turning the rear nearside wheel feels like it is scrabbling and it makes a clunking noise. It happens in forward and reverse. No errors showing on Autel. Pulling the Haldex fuse makes a significant difference, and the noise is barely audible without the fuse in but you can still feel that the scrabbling is there (just reduced). It just started all of a sudden yesterday - it drives fine once you speed up - you just notice the scrabbling on tighter bends etc. I believe as ours is a 2010 (59 plate) it will be the gen 4 Haldex unit. So questions... Would a DIY Haldex service be worth trying first? How about the Valve replacement as that seems to be common on these? With the fact that it is still there albeit reduced when the fuse is pulled does that mean there is something more than just the Haldex? Any tips on where to go next with it?
  3. Well we bought one. Got a 2010 XS. All seems to work well, this one has two keys. The satnav didn't seem to work though. It just asks for the DVD but when you supply the DVD it doesn't seem to do anything, then spits it out. The Bluetooth phone connection seemed to work fine but I couldn't find a way to play music over Bluetooth. Does it work out do you have to use the aux lead?
  4. The track itself is ok, but the stables are across a field. One day we might get the track extended! At the moment the easiest way is to come off the track them drive across a field then down to the stables. No problem at all in dry weather but in the depths of winter it gets too slippery. We have an old 200tdi there that we can use and the in-laws have a couple of discovery 2s. In the worst weather none of these can get up the slope out of the stable yard, even the tractor struggles. The old 200tdi seems to do the best with diff lock on and more mud based tyres. It copes most of the time as long as it is solo, with a trailer of muck it can't get out. Anyway as I say it will be fine in this sort of weather, and the Freelander should give the comfort for driving. We are using one of the td5 discoveries at the moment until we find a Freelander or other replacement. I had a P38 a good few years back and said never again!
  5. I'm hopefully going to be getting a Freelander 2. Around about a 2010. What is the best diagnostic tool to use with it? We have two old discoveries in the family too, so it would be useful if I could get something that would work with them. They are both td5 one is a 1999 and one is a 2001.
  6. We've just sold one car and my wife needs a 4x4 capable of allowing her to tend to be horses. Her stables are at the bottom of a hill without a proper track so she needs something capable of driving down and having a good chance of getting back out. At the moment she walks from the nearest path. I would think that in the worst weather mid winter she would still walk. It isn't that she's lazy but often there is a lot to carry. It would also be useful to pull trailers of hay or muck about. She also needs it to be able to be comfortable to drive for an hour a day. Anyway from looking, the best compromise on cost and ability seems to be the Freelander 2. I've looked at a couple so far but rejected them as they were rusty in the rear arches when you opened the rear doors. I know about looking out for the rear diff whine. Is there much else to look out for? I'm supposed to be looking at one in the next day or so but it only has one key which puts me off a little. I'd plan on getting some kind of diagnostic machine, would that be able to code a new key?
  7. Thanks, That was as much info as I could get from the seller regarding hitting a bump and it dropping. It was/is a 2008 diesel HSE. Priced at £3800 which seems reasonable. However although it has a full years MOT, it had quite a few advisories including one for corrosion. Looking back through the history it has failed a fair few MOTs, some in quite substantial items including one year where it failed the emissions and had an engine warning light on. It didn't seem to be the most cared for mechanically and unsurprisingly three service history had been lost. I'm going to give this one a miss.
  8. I've seen a discovery 3 for sale. It comes with a full mot but it says it has a suspension warning light on and when you got a bump the suspension drops down. The seller says it just needs a sensor replacing. Is this a common fault? Is it easy to fix? I used to have a p38 and that was a pain with leaky bags etc. Any thoughts on whether I should pursue this one or walk away? Thanks
  9. I'm currently considering a Freelander 2 (please chip in if you think this is a bad idea🤣) I've seen a few that would otherwise be good but but they either say the rear diff has gone or is whining and will need replacing soon. Is the rear diff a major job to sort? Is it just a bearing, or the whole diff? We ideally need something for going up to the horses. We don't plan to use it round the fields but 4x4 is sometimes needed just to get in and off the path! Needs space for a saddle in the back and ideally 6 bales of horse bedding (cheaper when you buy 6! Budget is only around £5k hence the Freelander 2. Any other suggestions would be appreciated though (it has to be a daily driver too!)
  10. We've got a couple of discoveries that we use to pull trailers round the fields. One is a 200tdi, the other is a 1999 td5. The 200tdi is far better at pulling up muddy slopes than the td5. The td5 has to be revved harder and spins around before the electronic systems will kick in. As the paths are sometimes narrow, the sliding about causes it to get close to hitting the fence posts. The 200tdi, you just engage did lock and drive off. We've always blamed it on the electronics and lack of CDL. I've just been reading about it and realised it should have the internals and a lever mechanism from a disco 1 should fit it and provide CDL. I'd like to prove if it makes a difference first. Am I right in thinking that if we turn the shaft with the two flats on (above front prop) 90 degrees anti clockwise, that it should engage it and allow us to test it out first? I'd it easy enough to turn? Is it just a case of turning it with a pair of mole grips? Is it easy enough to get to?
  11. sotal

    Clutch seized

    Great - so the pivot is under there? Whip that off and give it a spray?
  12. I posted before on here about my clutch pedal not moving and it was suggested that I spray the pivot with penetrating oil. It has taken me this long to even take a look at it! Having had a little look am I correct in thinking that the pivot is underneath a cover in the engine bay? It looks to me like I need to remove the straight headed screws (6 of them I think) on the cover to see the pivot. Is that correct? If so is it safe to do so? I take it nothing will spring out? Thanks
  13. We are in North Staffordshire. Does it sound right to have no power to the modulator? That was the reason they were saying they couldn't diagnose it. So they thought it was more of an electrical fault actually supplying the modulator. I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't just cutting the power due to it being in fault mode.
  14. My father in law has asked me to see if I can find anything out about the problem he is having with his Discovery II Td5. He sent it to a small garage to have a number of things sorted for the MOT. One of which was the 3 amigos which were on. The garage has sorted the various other bits, but said they put it on the computer and cleared the 3 amigos, but then the ABS light has come back shortly after and won't go off. They said they can't do any more. They said the ABS Modulator isn't getting any power. It seems rather vague, but I have a few questions. When the system recognises a fault does it cut power to the ABS Modulator? (ie is it normal that the ABS Modulator doesn't have power when the light is on?) If he has a computer that is able to turn off the 3 amigos, wouldn't it be able to diagnose the fault? Anything particular that we should be looking for to fix it - the garage seem to be trying to wash their hands of it now and want him to pay for what they've done and take it back unfinished.
  15. It is a mixture of 2a and 3 parts, I think the parts will be Series 3 parts but I'm not 100% sure. No diagnostics yet! Other than attempting to press the pedal and it not moving. My time was spent trying to start the engine! It is totally jammed - it doesn't move what-so-ever! I'll try the penetrating oil and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestions - I did try replying earlier in the week but for some reason I couldn't submit my reply, looks to be working now though!
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