Jump to content

bmhor

Settled In
  • Posts

    99
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by bmhor

  1. I'm posting this in the hope it might help someone else in the future.

    The scenario was as follows:

    "P" reg (300 shape) 5 door disco with 3.9 V8, manual box and sequential LPG injection.

    Symptoms:

    Died one day, occassionally starting but not for long, problem diagnosed as no sparks to the plugs but power getting to the coil.

    The coil and module were replaced to no avail. power straight from the battery to the +ve on the coil and engine fired up.

    After a lot of searching on Rave, the immobiliser controls 3 ccts.

    power from fuel pump relay to fuel pump

    power from the ignition switch, in the start position, to the starter

    and

    power from the ignition to the coil

    The immob. module is screwed on top of the heater, below the radio in the centre of the dash and is a right pig to get to.

    A replacement one is £140 retail ish and I'm a Scotsman so the old one was dismantled and inspected.

    These things are connected with 9 wires and they're all Black so be carefull!

    The problem was traced to a dry solder joint on the printed cct board on the coil side of the relay.

    This is why it sometime would and then again maybe not..

    Cleaned, resoldered, reassembled, swore (several times) and tested even more times and things are looking good.

    I'll post a photo of the stripped module but as I was working outside the house last night in -1oC I've no shots of the dash stripdown.

    I'll try to answer any questions.

  2. I had my intercooler flushed out when i did the rad, the intercooler was very dirty inside and out, many of the passage ways inside were blocked with oily gunk, it performed a bit better after, is not too bad but the turbo lag is still a tad annoying at times.

    Long live the VM!!

    Bazza,

    Where's the best place to get heater plugs from?

    Mine have died with the demise of the relay....

    Bob

  3. Hi Bob

    well i have seen it with 4 landrover in it :rolleyes:

    That was a while ago!!

    But hey ho, got some new toys 4.6 P38 damaged with no engine, 3.9 Disco with gas but non runner and an 8x8 GlenAlmond

    Just what a chap needs incase he ever gets bored.

    Bob

  4. Its under the black plastic cover behind the washer bottle mounted on the bulkhead, i thinks its the outer one of the two if i remember correctly. if yours is the same as mine there is only two relays under the cover, and they dont look like the picture.

    Glad sombody elase has a VM, mine has been good as gold (once i cleaned half an oak tree of leaves from the rad!) and it gets a hell of beasting, is also used as a daily commute, i can even beat my brothers 200 tdi disco off the lights!!

    Baz

    Ah somebody else as sad as me...

    They are not the most civilised engines are they?

    Mine's fine on the open road but about town its a pig, poor acceleration and turbo lag but once its wound up, it'll cruise at 70 ('ish) downhill on the flat 'till it sees a hill.

    Might get round to a Tdi conversion, when I finish the rest of the projects....Ha Ha

    Bob

  5. Mods, please feel free to move this if you think it should be in the classifieds but I thought this would be the best way for people to see this.

    I've been in touch with a company in New Zealand who sell 7.8hp winch motors in either 12V or 24V form. These are competition prooven in New Zealand and are not produced in high volumes BUT seem very well put togther and have prooved reliable even when over volted in the competitions in New Zealand. I've not got my hands on one yet but I've managed to sort out a good price if 10 or more are ordered.

    Will,

    Put me down for 2 at 24v please.

    PM sent

    Bob

  6. Ok this should be it...

    Relay 'A', and those are the ones on the bulkhead on the right hand side of the engine bay and at the back as you look in.

    Oh and thank Geoff, t'was he who sent me this in the post!

    Thanks for this. I think you mean "Relay G" (I hope!)

    Now all I've got to do is get the cover off....

    Thanks again

    Bob

  7. unfortunately its the crossmember at the back ( think i should have been a bit more clear when i made the original post as to which crossmember i meant) which has become crusty. a while back i had to take a bumperette off to fit a wheel carrier and a large quantiy of brown flakes came off rather than the bolts undoing.

    should i have to get it galvanised myself have you used anyone locally? my dad talked of a galvanisers in cumbernauld and i know crow engineering or whatever they go by nowadays send them to inverness or something, but a closer one might be helpful.

    The inverness co. is Highland galvansers and they have a place in Cumbernauld now.

    The problem with galv. a replacement xmember is that it will be a bitch to weld due to the fumes.

  8. looking almost like a car now. how's the 'suzu running? still sans exhaust?

    what sort of lid are you going to put on the car?

    Not been near the engine for a while, too busy doing other bits.

    Roof is optional at the moment, I need to find a set of 90/110 hood sticks as I'ld like to soft top it

    but I do have the remains of a 110 CSW roof (yellow) to shorten to match the rear body.

    Time will tell.

    Did you seen my post about xmembers?

    Bob

  9. OK the story is that I have a classic R/R fitted as std with the VM 2.5 diesel engine. I know, I know noisey, sluggish, prone to overheating to name but a few known comments about this engine.

    I don't care, it starts OK, does not overhead and will do 80 (private road officer) given enough time to get there.

    The problem is that I think the heater plug relay has died, there's permanent power to the heater plus which has, I suspect, burnt them out.

    I'm damed if I can find the offending relay, can anyone provide any info please?

    Bob

  10. apologgies for bringing this up again.

    i should like to procure a galvanised cross memeber, but searching through old posts i can't actualy find any suppliers of them mentioned. i'm perhaps being a bit thick and failing to find it.

    the name brooklyn or brookwells rings a bell, but i'm not too sure. any pointers would be appreciated.

    thanks

    callum

    Callum,

    Why not make a new xmember (I take it its the one just below the gearbox you're on about) and then get it galvanised..

    Give me a bell if you want any more info.

    Bob

  11. so on the following, picture if i bore out a hole in the air filter housing i will then be able to route it and diy job it. or again am i wrong in thinking this

    If you look at the end of the air filter ,the bit stuck in the back of the rad, there might be the remains of a trumpet.

    When I snorkled mine, I cut the flared bit of the trumpet off which left a lovely section of pipe for the snorkel flexi to connect to.

    The rest, as they say, was as easy as falling off a log into a deep river with alligators bightinbg your a$%e.....

    If I remember, I'll take post a photo tomorrow night.

    Bob

  12. Well just to prove it does move:

    Its been a productive weekend, with thoughts of things to come:

    This shows the mods to the read wheel arches to recentralise the rear wheel:

    Started work on the radiator panel, stripped off the O/S headlamp plate as it's fck'd!

    Here's the old one, with its sucessor marked out on the sheet to be plasma cut

    Also managed to fit the O/S/F brake caliper (110 with vented disks), which was a pig as the R/R axle is an early one with

    imperial mountings and the new caliper is metric! Out with the taps and retap the swivel housing to M12 x 1.75

    Also got the brake servo in and the pipes connected to the rear cct. together with the O/S/F and started on the N/S

    How come all the simple things take the time??

    post-1563-1168813553_thumb.jpg

    post-1563-1168813663_thumb.jpg

    post-1563-1168813774_thumb.jpg

    post-1563-1168813793_thumb.jpg

    post-1563-1168813812_thumb.jpg

  13. Go to the scrappies and "collect" the twin fan setup from a Mondeo.

    Its almost the exact size for the L/W rad and if you use the fan temp switch made by the guys at X-eng (SimonR is the username on this forum I think) the jobs a piece of p1ss.

    Which dissy do you have on there?

    Is it the one with the small black module on the side?

    Bob

  14. I run a mod'd 727 in the hillrally car.

    Reverse pattern, manual shift on a ratchet shifter with the 4 pin centre diff mod in the LT230 and no problems.

    post-1563-1167435789_thumb.jpg

    This box runs a seperate cooler at the front with its own fan to ensure it does not get too hot and, touch wood, all's been OK so far!

    This setup has been run with a supercharged 3.9 and now just a "built" 3.9......

    Bob

  15. No photo's yet, but the Pheonix lives and drives.

    Maiden test flight yesterday, out of the garage (well I was on my own and needed to turn her around!) and back in.

    Interesting driving with NO brakes (not even the pedal!) and having to pull the end of the Isuzu throttle cable by hand....

    No strange noises (yet) and sounds quite fruity with only the front pipe on, might be tempted not to bother with a silencer at all...

    Bob

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy