yalan
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Posts posted by yalan
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I thought about getting the same item.
But ended up going for an eBay special and mounting it here.
Easy enough to mount & repair and the view angle isn’t too bad at all. Nice that it is a fairly central position.
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15 minutes ago, missingsid said:
What seats did you use for the final frames? the pics show the original mobility seats then a pair of other seats that you reupholstered with a load of work. Great job.
No Idea I’m afraid - they were locally sourced for about £30 from someone who had stripped out a minibus / coach. They weren’t anything special really and needed a fair bit of cut n shut to separate out the seat base from backrest. That type do come up periodically but not particularly worth holding out for I wouldn’t say.
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Thanks - glad you like it!
The pics are part of a full catalogue of build pics. You can see the full collection of this and other projects at http://www.85ninety.co.uk
Do ask if anything isn’t clear.
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Having bought my 90 a decade ago, I knew there would come a time when I wanted seats in the back.
It’s not a new problem so I thought I’d share my solution in case it helps anyone else.
Basically we have a pair of minibus seats with integral belts mounted to a bus seat’s demountable base - cut and shut for defender proportions.
It mounts to UNWIN rails which are bolted to chassis through the tub. One of the nice things is that they can be demounted in 2mins and can be either forward or rear facing. When not in use, the rails are pretty handy too for securing the dog!
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I haven’t actually tried it with just the rears.....It’s so damn close with all 4 it seems unlikely.. If I did just rears and removed the hood and hoops then it’d probably work.
But since everything came as sets of 4 and having the impact gun it is all pretty swift.
There is a roll bar under the hood so it wouldn’t work without the little wheels.
On a plus point it can all be flogged on once I get the garage roof raised!
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Apologies for thread resurrection.... but I was reading this thread recently as have bought a new place with a much lower garage door than previous home... needed a quick fix before raising the roof.
90 on std 235s is about 203cm tall at highest point (middle tilt hoop)
as discussed previously, 13’” Ifor Williams wheels do fit but need 30mm spacers to clear callipers. Once all on the roof height drops to about 188cm and so just cleared the 190cm.
Hope this helps others in the future..
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On 4/5/2021 at 8:19 PM, Filipe Fonseca said:
"I've had to pluck out the 'reinforcing' core in that area" - how did you do that? Cutting the seal and then gluing it?
err well it was 9 years ago... but I think it was a pair of needle nose pliers through the tiny vent holes in the ‘bubbled’ region.
there are other threads about it where I had seen it already done!
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Not sure if anyone is using the same Clarke cabinet, but Ifound the problems could be fixed with a new lid,
two mini halogen floods, replacable woodburning stove laminated glass window, massive filter panel and increaced internal volume. 10 years later still going strong.
I use a henry hoover with mine.
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/small-clarke-blast-cabinet-improvement.20261/
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In’t It just the 300tdi pump that can unscrew to access the gauze?
Nonetheless, After changing the filter and draining out about 20 litres of amber coloured diesel & refilling with fresh it seems to have done the trick!
Hopefully can keep a more social idle RPM next.
Thanks for the suggestions.
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Lovely - thanks for the advice. I’ll look into those and see how it goes before ditching the fuel. Didnkt know the delphi pump had another level of filtering so I’ll have a look there too.
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Thanks for that Steve. I didn’t know fuel could degrade that quickly.
from the RAC website ‘As for diesel, it can remain usable for between six and 12 months before becoming ‘gummy’ which, if used, can clog up filters and cause you issues with your engine.’
Anyone know what can done with half a tank of diesel? I presume the local tip doesn’t want it?! And if I do drain it on the driveway, how many litres of jerrycan fuel is needed to get running again - I’m guessing a good 20litres...?
Filters first i guess.... lift pump, timing, hoses all to look at.
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Hi.
My 90 (with 200tdi disco conversion) has developed a stalling issue having run well for years. It still starts on first turn, runs well, boosts well and even idles nicely - generally seems happy in all respects. Drives well but when allowed to drop from driving rpm to an idle it stalls.
It does very few miles each year at the moment (last year managed a grand total of 35miles). Filters haven't been changed for a few years and no doubt fuel is years old too but due to low mileage it hasn't been a priority. Full filter set now on their way.
I've adjusted the idle screw until is is way faster than it ought to be but it is still wanting to drop to a stall.
I'm guessing air or fuel restrictions somewhere but can anyone give me a likely suspect list to go through to work out what next if the filters don't sort it?
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nothing to see here! sorry.
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As my 90 approaches the end of its restoration I'm now finishing off a few bits I've been wanting for a while such as NAS style 3rd brake light and dashboard console.
I know there are a lot of options already out there and I did a lot of research on here before starting on this project but I'm finally done with it. Not to everyone's taste but as a soft top I wanted to hear the radio and didn't have a whole lot of options for speaker placement. This one has two 6x9s mounted on the top - sound bouncing back off the windscreen! space for far too many switches and replaceable fascia panels for change of configuration. You can even still get to the bulkhead flap levers. Text is there to break up the flat surfaces & make it just that bit more identifiable should it ever leave my company.
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On 1/4/2018 at 1:02 PM, Bowie69 said:
Yup, 10 years on still asking the same questions
25 years ago they told us how to wear them...
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Have fun.... it was x16 spots when I did mine.
lots of photos on my site but this one just about shows typical locations.
if I remember correctly, once the spotwelds are all removed it just fell away... but I did have footwell out at the time..
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' this was a promotional code for a limited time that ran from December 2018 - January 20, 2019. It is no longer valid. '
That is a shame.....
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I have a Nedermann retractable reel. Not hugely long but have x2 hoses to link up when the need arises.
theyre expensive but truly a top bit of kit. No leaks in the x12 years I’ve had it fitted. Bought mine new surplus stock on eBay for a very reasonable price. Internal bore is 10mm throughout which is a bonus.
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On 7 February 2018 at 5:53 PM, nickwilliams said:
Several things here which might be of use:
https://www.machine-dro.co.uk/angle-measurement-digital-gauge-protractor.html
I have the wixey 365 and the Moore and wright 9" level.
both do a sound job. M&W feels a bit cheap & plasticcy and only gets used in preferance the the wixey when I need a longer edge.
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Another vote for dronco slitting discs.
Garryson are my preferred choice for flap discs.
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Ive got the blue / black one.
Very happy with it.
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I'm a big fan of this..
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I put a disco 200 in my 90 a while back and had very similar issues. You really need to know what temperatures are actually there before going further.
Mine ran fairly warm. Cold bottom hose. Dial suggested all OK then going uphill temperature went into RED then off the scale.
I bought a fluke infrared thermometer and that set mind at ease for a while as it suggested it really wasnt that hot at all (that said, the surface temp of the stathousing was about 20deg less than the water inside it when I later checked its validity).
I had a supposedly compatible sender fitted but something wasnt right so wanted to know more about what was going on. So fitted digital temp probes - one in the thermostat housing ( just below stat) and one in the lower hose. Turns out my gauge is well out. For me, the needle in the middle is actually when the water out of the engine is at 70deg. 90deg (stat opening) is actually when needle is into the red. Ie mine needs to go into the red before the rad is even in the game.... Let alone the fan kicking in!
Maybe your gauge is off for whatever reason & you're pulling off the road just as stat is about to do its thing. That is what was happening for me.
http://www.85ninety.co.uk/cars/landy90/electronics/electronics.htm
Optimill Reverse Camera
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thanks - yes, perhaps I’ve been lucky with the camera but so far so good. I don’t think it was anything branded.
I don’t really have much else on it - a fairly ordinary Sony double DIN radio and the camera is on a switch rather than connected to reverse light…. Meaning I normally have it on while driving - quite nice to watch what is going on behind whilst trundling down the road!