yalan
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Posts posted by yalan
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Just bought an Up Plus 2 here..... Not my first choice of machine but it won out on common consensus.
Looking forward to seeing what we can build on its diddy 14cm platform...
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I have those wheels with the correct nuts. Never seen them for sale anywhere I'm afraid... But if you need any dimensions let me know.
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I bought that nilfisk 140.2 last week.
Pretty sound little machine.
Bought mine from cleanstore.... 230 with home & car kit.... But the box had been opened before & although they are an authorised seller of returns, that isn't what I paid for. Buy from a good local return place in case it develops issues.....argos would be my choice.
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Totally agree with the above two posts. Simple fact is you get what you pay for.
I'm still a big fan of dewalt so long as you go for their 'proper stuff' not the Mickey Mouse versions sold by B&Q etc. My DC925 is still going strong 6 years after purchase. The spindle auto braking and one handed Rohm chuck is just awesome.
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Mmm,
And i'm starting to question how restrictive the std PCL couplings are.
All well and good having 1/2" pipework, 10mm ID hose then std PCLs with those tiny 3 or 4mm bores.
Thinking of switching to PCL XF range which look far more free flowing for those hungry tools.......
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My take on oiling tools is that if you're just a DIYer who uses tools intermittently then it's perfectly acceptable to oil tools by hand rather than through the airline. Couple of drops for each minute or so of use and again before packing away...
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I'm sure there is good value to using them, but couplings are cheap to buy once in a blue moon whilst adding whips to each tool is a costly process. Especially if you want a decent bore size.
Not to mention most of my tools have cases not designed to accomodate whips...
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I've read about pulling out the core - I think I need to figure out what that means.
The main sealing part is a hollow rubber tubing. What they do is fit a solid core of closed cell foam (maybe 10cm long) inside that hollow tubing in the areas where the contour changes. My guess is so that the hollow part doesn't just fold flat. Problem is that the density makes it that much harder to compress when closing the door.
(However, it may just be the case that it all takes time to settle in, so don't rush into pulling out all he cores on day one!)
If you do decide to pull them out, the tubing has little vent holes along its length to allow air out when compressed. With small needle nose pliers you can pull out the core (10mm dia) through those little 3mm vent holes. What you can't do is get hem back in gain should you change your mind!!
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Fitted aftermarket to mine. Ok for the money but not great. They're not happy to follow the contour change and like others I've had to pluck out the 'reinforcing' core in that area to enable the door to actually shut without an almighty slam.
Can't comment on genuine but am starting to become wary of 'OEM' for 2 reasons.... firstly who says that is true, and secondly, like with brake pads, one company can make several versions of the same thing quality wise. Genuine porsche pads are not the same as aftermarket textar pads for porsche..... Just because they're made in the same factory doesn't necessarily mean much.....
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How about modifying an ex-mod flight / equipment case?
Very solid, fibreglass, waterproof etc. just cut the top off the box to retain the sealing / latching rim then mount it using angle and a tube of sealant. Good size, good styling... Just relocate catches inside!
May possibly have something suitable with a bit of history if youre interested?
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I changed mine for blades too...
Took the fusebox out of the 200tdi disco I was breaking.....
Gives 27 fuseways so plenty of room for futre expansion!
Wierdly it seems incredibly rare in discoveries.... In fact it looks like they raided the mini parts bin for this one...AFU3103
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When I was looking for a DRO for my mill I spoke with these guys - very helpful and they mention the Student on their homepage.
I didn't end up buying a DRO as I sold the mill (long story!) so can't comment on their products.
I had a dro fitted last year to our student 2500. Bought the dro from xyz machine tools as a new take off from a machine going proto trak.
I then had it fitted by a guy from machine-dro.
It was an Easson DRO. And worth every penny!
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Having broken a part on my old flaremaster 1, I bought the sp bench mounted tool. And while it is very good I still think the flare master is a more versatile tool. The flaremaster2 has eliminated all the weaknesses of the first model and is a brilliant tool.
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Has anyone explored the use of sketchup as an engineering tool? Judging by the countless videos on youtube there are countless add ons to simulate things like gravity and physics principals and the array of products in the online library is enormous...
Ive used autocad, proengineer, i-deas and touched on solidworks in the past... Just still undecided about sketchup...
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Great job there. I like the concept and improved ergonomics. Have been planning to do this myself when the interior is finally reinstalled in mine.
Some of the angles there don't do it for me but if there was an easy solution, raptor or mud etc would have done it already! Thanks for sharing.
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Another happy customer of the ebay crimper here.
I keep the soldering for electronics jobs these days.
Have a certified rathet crimper for the red blue yellow terminals but the hydraulic crimper does an ace job on the heavy cables.
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I too had the same letter despite sending in a whole dossier with the V5 request.
Turns out the letter had a direct dial phone no of the lady at DVLA dealing with my case.
Called her up - and it went straight through. I explained everything slowly and politely and a few days later the new V5 arrived as asked.
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Secondhand can be great. I paid £205 for a barely used 3.5hp 200l 17cfm snap on compressor on ebay.
But if you do go the s/h route you do have to be wary of the condition of the inside of the tank. A badly maintained one could rust from the inside out..... Not good on a pressure vessel!
Bigger is better!
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I found mgf seats very comfortable... In an mgf!
So i've got a set in the loft ready to fit soon.
Images of someone elses install here at the end of p2. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/rover-200-216-seats-defender-176937-2.html
Very thin as you've said & very cheap on the bay.
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You'll like it.
I have the flaremaster and its never put out a duff flare.
I would only update it now as the 2 can now do bigger (6mm?) pipes too with the extra ad ons.
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y'mean one of these?
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and when I got to the point of doing sand blasting (at first one of the suction types.... avoid, save your money and buy a pressure pot type), it would just about cope, but required very frequent stops, and as the nozzle wore down (larger) it became hopeless....
I bought a MM cabinet and it was pretty poor. I've modified the lighting and exhaust system and things are much better but the suction system is still pretty poor.
So a week or so ago I bought a pressure pot blaster. But I don't want to loose all the beads over the back garden. Any suggestion as to how to combine the two systems?
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I feel a purchase coming on...M Mart is beckoning
Not until their next VAT free deal I hope.
They used to just do VAT free weekends 3 or 4 times a year but it seems to be almost every month and for a week at a time now. Get yourself on their e-mail database and you're inundated with opportunities to spend.....
Workbench - How deep to go?
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
I spent a long time planning mine & ended up 2ft deep and 42" high. I'm 6'1" and love it for working height.