yalan
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Posts posted by yalan
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I bought a gunsons eezy-bleed from Halfords a decade or two ago. Still going strong & never failed to do the job 1st time. Uses spare tyre air pressure.
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Have a vanlock on mine holding wheel to carrier. Better than nothing!
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Have used a few at work. Not much in them at the DIY price bracket.... But when I had to replace recently I bought a Tacwise 202 (their domestic market one and 1/10 cost of their pro version). Very happy. Use loctite glue sticks. Excellent bond on most materials.
I'd avoid the super cheapos ... Most faults Ive seen are on the feed ratchet mechanism
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Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.
After rebuilding my doors I had great plans for adding c/l too.
Finding a space for the actuators was easy .... Until I tried to put the door card back on! I eventually sold the c/l kit instead.
Have you got door cards there? There really is very little space in there on these lift up handle doors.
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Great tools. Use them almost as much as my 3/8 ratchet. Nothing gimmicky about them for me either.
Halfords ones are made by gearwrench so are very good quality too. Get em bought.... Either on a special or on tradecard!
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Off the shelf I'd agree.Nope. They are carp, and don't improve with more air.
But with a few mods they can be very good.
As a toolmaker I used a professional vacuublast machine and it was great but needed industrial supply & space.
I bought a clemco pressure pot and it too was good but made such a mess / was such a faff to set up, clean away I sold it on again.
Admittedly there are volume limitations with a benchtop cabinet but they can be made to function well for just a few ££.
See the last thread on the matter:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=86478&hl=blast
Main problems are poor lighting (one 12" flossy tube is never going to be up to the job here) and too much resistance on the extraction meaning a build up of pressure inside, blowing the seals and leaking of blast media.
The cheap ones are built to a budget and it shows. Once light and exhaust is sorted it'll do a sound job with glass beads. 4 years and many jobs done I still haven't felt the need to change my media.
I used a henry hoover filter for my exhaust filter, stove glass for the viewing window (with a disposable cover film) and two 80mm 60w mini floodlights. All in it probably cost a further £25 on top of the £50 i paid for the cabinet from the local free ads.
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I have a topmig turbo 170 and am very happy with it. Wrote a bit about on a previous thread on here.
I've never heard of it being usable 'gasless' and it's certainly not got 'swappable' polarity like other machines that can be switched to gasless.
Personally my experiences with gasless have led me to a proper gas setup and won't ever go back! My y size bottle is only £35/yr and goes on forever!
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Also have a 2135qtiMax. Excellent tool if you've got the air.
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Here's a thread with photos of someone using the heap hydraulic crimpers on steel rope...
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/55646-Wire-Rope-Crimps
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I've got asset of ebay crimpers and as already said, they work well but sizes ned some experimenting with before doing jobs.
I tried them on some wire rope jobs and although they worked, they weren't quite as neat as hoped.
Bought the proper rope crimping tools and they did a much nicer looking (maybe stronger too?) job.
http://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/products/189900102__18_Crimping_Tool_For_Wire_Rope
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I do a fair bit of shooting and have used most of the electronic muffs ont he market.
My mainstay are peltor tactical sport (round about £100 on ebay).
Most will only shut off when they encounter loud gunshot - noisy background will still come through, just at a more controllable dB level.
Cheap ones will let you hear everything then go quiet before coming back on. Expensive ones just digitally filter out the unwanted noise from what they reproduce inside. The peltors above are great and are servicable etc.
Good discussion here comparing top end to more affordable brands...
http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread.php?684335-Electronic-Ear-defenders&highlight=Peltor
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Maybe youve just got three components all at their extreme in the tolerance range.
Can you not just gring off 3mm from the bulkhead fixing (that long tubey bit) to make both sides the same?
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Just gone over mine recently.
Prep work as above but I used Halfords truck bed liner spray for the finish.
Can't tell you how long lasting / hard wearing it'll be but so far so good.
http://www.85ninety.co.uk/cars/landy90/chequer/chequer.htm
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You can take them to where you are working.
You can label above each compartment you make with the contents
The compartments are adjustbale
Yup.... Wickes do an own brand version - prettymuch identical.
I have 3 for various fixings. Theyre great and for less than a tenner cant go wrong.
http://www.wickes.co.uk/content/ebiz/wickes/invt/168023/25-Compartment-Organiser_large.jpg
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You can usually free a clogged tube on these cabinets by putting your finger over the end of the nozzle. Because it is a syphon system, a quick blip on the trigger forces the air backwards down the pickup pipe and clears the tube.
I have a clarke cabinet and tried sharp black media first with zero success. Switched to glass beads and things were much much better.
But the cabinet isnt great off the shelf. For more ideas....
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/small-clarke-blast-cabinet-improvement.20261/
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I made a spreader plate to go on my swing out tailgate.....
Picture attached shows what I made .. A couple of strips of angle and 5mm plate. Overkill but its all I had.
More pics here if it helps.
http://www.85ninety.co.uk/cars/landy90/carrier/carrier.htm
I bolted mine up using standard 8.8 M10 bolts.
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My own comic reading is decreasing and the only reason i have not unsubscribed is the Mike Manifold section, it is the first thing i read when the mag falls through the door.
Dean
Me too. Having cancelled the print version a year or so ago as a cost saving, I recently re-subscribed as a digital only.
The mike Manifold bit is undoubtedly one of the finest elements of the mag. Sadly most of the other 'regular' contributors just fail to bring anything of interest.
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I've used SPA myself for a few years and they also serve my employers too.
Always found the staff to be excellent, particularly Len and their in-house demo facilities are superb too.
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How about vinyl wrapping the flat panels. IMHO the untreated panels accentuate the angular nature and make it all a bit slab like. Some coloured panels might help soften it a little. And if wrapped, it is all removable as & when your tastes change.
A coverring would also slow down the ageing process that makes non-anodised ally look tired after a few years..
Love some of the detail in this project - hinges & opening roof are great touches.
You could also think about spraying it with plastidip.....
spray on.... Peel off when bored. -
Yeah, with a few mods they work well. Mine is a 3hp 200l and does run quite a bit to keep up.
Heres mine with mods.... 2x 60w halogen mini floods, and a massive extraction filter (cut up henry hoover filter behind the mesh).
All glass is stove glass custom cut and protected by disposable OHP film.
I also added a hose whip to make connections easier.
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I'm in the process of setting mine up. I'm putting a condenser on the airline, using a blast pot with a proper valve/gun run into the machine, and I've got a Hoover to rig up on the filter to extract the dust.
Essentially I'm copying a friends set up that works very well .....
Yeah, I thought mine was being limited by being a syphon based system so invested in a clemco pressure pot to feed into the cabinet. Eventually decided the benefit didn't warrant the extra kit so went back to the syphon system.
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Yup, got the smaller one.
It is fed from a good, strong,dry air source and has delivered mixed results.
In a previous job I've used a very good industrial machine so held high hopes.
As standard it isnt great. It'll function, but light, visibility, exhaust filtering and efficiency aren't great.
But you can modify them as I found out from another forum.
I'll stick up some links and photos of what I've done to improve things.
Someone elses mods...
Regarding size, i've used mine for lots and the size hasn't really limited me. Done lots of brackets, calipers etc with it. Too small for alloy wheels but I can live with that!
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Yup, got the smaller one.
It is fed from a good, strong,dry air source and has delivered mixed results.
In a previous job I've used a very good industrial machine so held high hopes.
As standard it isnt great. It'll function, but light, visibility, exhaust filtering and efficiency aren't great.
But you can modify them as I found out from another forum.
I'll stick up some links and photos of what I've done to improve things.
Someone elses mods...
Tube Notcher, a little shoutout for a great product
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
As above.
And don't bother trying to use it with a pillar drill. However well you set it up it will rattle the hell out of your beautiful meddings and at best rattle the MT chuck off the taper or at worse knacker the head bearings. Best technique I've found is mount it sideways in a vice and lean into it with a corded drill.
And lots of cutting oil to preserve saw life.