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About yalan

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  1. Have fun.... it was x16 spots when I did mine. lots of photos on my site but this one just about shows typical locations. Bulkhead foot spot welds Bulkhead rebuild if I remember correctly, once the spotwelds are all removed it just fell away... but I did have footwell out at the time..
  2. ' this was a promotional code for a limited time that ran from December 2018 - January 20, 2019. It is no longer valid. ' That is a shame..... https://forum.solidworks.com/thread/228354
  3. I have a Nedermann retractable reel. Not hugely long but have x2 hoses to link up when the need arises. theyre expensive but truly a top bit of kit. No leaks in the x12 years I’ve had it fitted. Bought mine new surplus stock on eBay for a very reasonable price. Internal bore is 10mm throughout which is a bonus.
  4. I have the wixey 365 and the Moore and wright 9" level. both do a sound job. M&W feels a bit cheap & plasticcy and only gets used in preferance the the wixey when I need a longer edge.
  5. Another vote for dronco slitting discs. Garryson are my preferred choice for flap discs.
  6. Ive got the blue / black one. Very happy with it.
  7. I put a disco 200 in my 90 a while back and had very similar issues. You really need to know what temperatures are actually there before going further. Mine ran fairly warm. Cold bottom hose. Dial suggested all OK then going uphill temperature went into RED then off the scale. I bought a fluke infrared thermometer and that set mind at ease for a while as it suggested it really wasnt that hot at all (that said, the surface temp of the stathousing was about 20deg less than the water inside it when I later checked its validity). I had a supposedly compatible sender fitted but something wasnt right so wanted to know more about what was going on. So fitted digital temp probes - one in the thermostat housing ( just below stat) and one in the lower hose. Turns out my gauge is well out. For me, the needle in the middle is actually when the water out of the engine is at 70deg. 90deg (stat opening) is actually when needle is into the red. Ie mine needs to go into the red before the rad is even in the game.... Let alone the fan kicking in! Maybe your gauge is off for whatever reason & you're pulling off the road just as stat is about to do its thing. That is what was happening for me. http://www.85ninety.co.uk/cars/landy90/electronics/electronics.htm
  8. As above. And don't bother trying to use it with a pillar drill. However well you set it up it will rattle the hell out of your beautiful meddings and at best rattle the MT chuck off the taper or at worse knacker the head bearings. Best technique I've found is mount it sideways in a vice and lean into it with a corded drill. And lots of cutting oil to preserve saw life.
  9. I bought a gunsons eezy-bleed from Halfords a decade or two ago. Still going strong & never failed to do the job 1st time. Uses spare tyre air pressure.
  10. Have a vanlock on mine holding wheel to carrier. Better than nothing!
  11. Have used a few at work. Not much in them at the DIY price bracket.... But when I had to replace recently I bought a Tacwise 202 (their domestic market one and 1/10 cost of their pro version). Very happy. Use loctite glue sticks. Excellent bond on most materials. I'd avoid the super cheapos ... Most faults Ive seen are on the feed ratchet mechanism
  12. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. After rebuilding my doors I had great plans for adding c/l too. Finding a space for the actuators was easy .... Until I tried to put the door card back on! I eventually sold the c/l kit instead. Have you got door cards there? There really is very little space in there on these lift up handle doors.
  13. Great tools. Use them almost as much as my 3/8 ratchet. Nothing gimmicky about them for me either. Halfords ones are made by gearwrench so are very good quality too. Get em bought.... Either on a special or on tradecard!
  14. Off the shelf I'd agree. But with a few mods they can be very good. As a toolmaker I used a professional vacuublast machine and it was great but needed industrial supply & space. I bought a clemco pressure pot and it too was good but made such a mess / was such a faff to set up, clean away I sold it on again. Admittedly there are volume limitations with a benchtop cabinet but they can be made to function well for just a few ££. See the last thread on the matter: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=86478&hl=blast Main problems are poor lighting (one 12" flossy tube is never going to be up to the job here) and too much resistance on the extraction meaning a build up of pressure inside, blowing the seals and leaking of blast media. The cheap ones are built to a budget and it shows. Once light and exhaust is sorted it'll do a sound job with glass beads. 4 years and many jobs done I still haven't felt the need to change my media. I used a henry hoover filter for my exhaust filter, stove glass for the viewing window (with a disposable cover film) and two 80mm 60w mini floodlights. All in it probably cost a further £25 on top of the £50 i paid for the cabinet from the local free ads.
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