sotal
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I'm not really in the market for any but a little engineering place is shutting shop a couple of units away and selling off all their old machinary.
I popped in to have a look and a couple of items caught my eye.
A Viceroy lathe 3 phase on a stand/cabinet complete with tooling for £175.00
and a single phase Milling machine with tooling - £100.00
The milling machine is a bit of a homemade job, the bottom half with vice etc is part of another machine, the top half has then been bolted on to that with a washing machine motor running it. Looks well made just lacks guards round the belt etc.
So are those prices good? They seem good to me, and will it be much hassle to convert the lathe to single phase?
Thanks
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I only have experience of reading about the Range Rover Diagnostics (and trust me Range Rovers need diagnostics on a regular basis!)
The Faultmate MSV2 gets very good reviews, basically it's advertised as a do everything that testbook does but at a much nicer price. It's not stupid money but only if you go for a single vehicle licence. I think it worked out at about £500 which is the equivalent of about 10 trips to LR. It does get quite pricey if you want multi vehicle though.
The hawkeye got awful reviews from the RR owners, but this may be due to comparing it to what the Faultmate could do, the general consensus was that the hawkeye was an OK general diagnostics tool, but the faultamte was a do everything tool and for the difference in price the faultmate was worth it everytime
Also forgot to say but Colin the owner of Black Box Solutions (who make Faultmate) is a memeber on rangerovers.net forum, so you can PM him and have a conversation about the product before buying. Also worth asking for a discount if you did decide to go with that product. His username is BBS_SPY. Hope that helps
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Thanks for the replies, I carried on using the saw as it didn't have a lot of fuel left in. I let it run dry, then started it up again and it cut straight out.
I then managed to remember to get some fuel today and mixed in the exact amount of two stroke oil. With the correct mix it only has a light hint of red to the fuel, wheras the fuel in the saw before was much darker red.
The only bad thing is it now won't start with the proper mix in! I'm hoping it's just down to retuning it now
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I've got a nice tray with socket rails built in, that didn't have enough clips, I looked around for clips - and I found them somewhere but it was cheaper to just buy rails, bought some rails for about £1 each from a local tool shop, the clips aren't quite as good as the originals but they do the job.
Here is a link to some clips though if it helps:
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I've not done much since,
I've not had chance to get new fuel, but needed to use the saw today, Started up on about the 4th pull and carried on running, knocked the choke off and used the tool for the job I needed it for which was a few minutes running, seemed have plenty of torque and was a pleasure to use compared the the big grinder.
When I finished I released the throttle, and it stil didn't idle - it just cut out.
I did however notice that it sprayed black liquid out of the exhaust whilst running, looks like really dirty oil but cleans off fairly easily, I realise that's not normal is it from running too rich etc? It smells a bit whilst running but only like I'd expect a 2 stroke to smell, it doesn't really smoke much at all.
I can live with the black spray if needs be but don't want to be damaging it further! Any thoughts?
Thanks
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We did a warehouse floor recently - the paint we used (can't remember make) said to apply direct to concrete, we just had to sweep it all first, then apply the 1st coat thinned down 50/50, then leave it over night, then paint it neat.
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You will also have a filter in the tank most likely. There's a pipe inside the tank with a weighted filter on the end of it (this is to ensure that the pick up is always in the fuel - regardless of the angle of the saw). Quite a fiddly thing to change, but it gets clogged with any dust or grit that gets inside the tank.
The rubber tube may well be just a guide for the screwdriver to locate on the idle screw correctly. My Huskys have the same arrangement. It's likely that the idle screw bears on an arm on the carb itself in that case.
Les.
There is a filter in the tank but you don't seem to be able to remove it without removing the carb.
The rubber tube has the adjustmemt screw at the end, it just seems to screw into the tube, the tube isn't a guide. I was only presuming it was idle speed might have it completley wrong!
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Thanks for the info, the manual states to use oil that's certified as TC whatever that means, and to use 50:1 mix. The carb looks easy to get to so if I can't get it running properly I will strip and clean that but at the moment I wanted to leave it together as much as possible!
The Air Filters are washable and I have done this but the inner filter looks knackered to be honest, it's a sort of steel mesh covered in a sponge type stuff. The steel mesh has rusted and swelled across the holes
Just realised I missed your first post Les, I think I posted at the same sort of time - looks very useful info and makes more sense to me than anything else I've read! Other bits I've read talked about how they made it richer/leaner and confused me! The idle on this (if I have the right bit) appears to be a rubber tube with a screw in the end.
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Thanks for the advice, I will empty the tank out, and fill with fresh, I was going to just fill a 5 litre container up with unleaded from the pump, add 100ml of two stroke oil and shake in the petrol container - is that OK?
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Sorry it's a Stihl TS 350 Saw for Stone or Steel etc.
The Air Filter looked a bit grubby so I've removed that for now - so am running without filter if that makes a difference? Hasn't affected the running.
Plug looks good the old chap said he had replaced it recently in attempt to help him start it.
I've had a play with the H and L screws (undid L screw quarter of a turn etc) and am now back at the beginning - ie will start and run but won't idle. So I put the screw back to the 'safe' position and it's exactly the same - won't idle!
I think my next thing is to chuck out the old fuel and put new fuel in making sure the mix is correct. The current petrol looks quite red
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I picked up a cheap stihl saw the other day from an old chap who was having trouble starting it.
I had a go at starting it as per the instructions and got it running but once running it was electricuting me through the frame and it cut out if you let off the revs.
I've had a quick check over it and given it a cosmetic clean and found the HT lead was worn through and arcing to the casing, and the stop cable is damaged.
I insulated the HT lead and repaired the stop cable and that cured the electricuting bit but didn't change how it ran.
The engine has three adjustments, High Speed, Low Speed and Idle Speed. I tried adjusting the idle speed but it appeared to make no difference.
I then had a search on the internet and found a page which says to adjust the H and L screws all the way in then undo them 1 full turn - this will then give 'safe' settings.
The H was approx 1 turn anyway so I've barely moved that one, but the L took nearly 3 turns to turn in then I backed it out one turn.
I then started it up, which started 1st pull much easier than before and it ran at idle, the only problem now is that it doesn't rev! and it smokes a bit of blue smoke at idle.
Anyone else got one of these? Or anyone able to explain to me how to set it up!?
Cheers
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it came with a new rad
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I think part of the PCV is close to that cylinder but I don't really understand how it works.
The above picture from another forum shows the two pipes used, pipe 1 is very close to being above the cylinder. How would that get to it?
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Defo seems to be oil, oil has dropped about a cm on the dipstick.
I unplugged the injector on Cyl 3 and ran the car at idle for a few minutes - the plug was then wet again. I cleaned the plug off again and left it out for a minute with a peice of paper outside the hole, it sprayed the paper with light brown splatters. I then put the spark plug back and ran it again for a few mins, again it was wet.
Fuel pressure doesn't seem to drop (fuel pump runs for a short amount of time when it hasn't been run for a long time - otherwise I don't notice it run). So I don't think it has a leaky injector.
Cyl 3 doesn't smell at all of fuel since disconnecting the injector.
Just don't like the thought of where that much oil is coming from!
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I've had a look on google images for pictures of wet spark plugs from fuel and it does look the same as mine. Mine was still wet after a couple of days on the kitchen table.
I would instantly say it was oil, but I'm running out of quick fixes for oil, the only possibilities seem to be major engine work - so I'm hoping it's fuel and I'm going to investigate the injectors a little further - I'll probably try and swap a couple round to see if that makes a difference.
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5. Windscreen Wipers don't autopark - they stop wherever they want, you can get them to the bottom by holding down the stalk until they are at the bottom then letting go
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I've borrowed a Td5 from a family member whilst I try and sort my RR out.
It's got a couple of problems which I thought I'd have a quick look at, any advice on the following issues.
1. Recently it's been refusing to start on the starter, bump start works or hit starter whilst turning key works, so the starter motor has had it - this is intermittant - perhaps once a week. I've seen some repair kits on ebay for about a tenner - are these likely to fix this and are they easy enough to do?
2. Remote central locking, the fob hardly works, it lights nicely but you have to keep pressing the buttons, holding it infront of middle of the windscreen seems to be the best place. Batteries have been changed with no change. Only one key fob to try. Puts you off locking it as sometimes it takes 5 minutes of pressing unlock before it decides to unlock. Locking with key doesn't help as unlocking with key still causes alarm to go off!
3. The rear airbags have been replaced with springs after too many faults with the compressor. This has left a light on the dash - do you just remove the bulb or is there something you can plug in somewhere? Sure I read something about it before.
4. It needs new seats - anyone know anyone breaking a disco with good seats? Do 300tdi Seats fit?
That's it for now!
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It is wasted spark using a long coil pack on the back of the engine, not sure how easy it is to swap round.
Just seemed to be more like oil than petrol to me
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I managed to move the fault from one bank to the other by swapping Bank 1 spark plugs to bank 2 and vice versa. Ran on the drive and bank 2 appeared to be over fuelling from the short term fuel trims.
Bought new plugs and replaced them all, completley fixed, idle increased from 650rpm to 750rpm, fuel trims moved up and down no more than 5% each way, settled at 0 some of the time.
Took it for a drive and it felt to have much more power, turned round in an empty car park and revved it to 2500rpm - no smoke, drove back home happy. On returning I revved it on the drive to 2500rpm and the smoke started again, checked idle and it was back to 650rpm. Fuel trims were now sowing that Bank 1 was over fuelling again. Pulled the plugs to find cylinder 3 was wet (it was wet in the morning when I swapped them).
Just don't know why it's wet now. It appears to be oil to me.
Compression test for that cylinder gave 160 psi on the first test, then 150 psi after. If you remove the oil filler cap whilst running it doesn't chuff.
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Thanks David,
I have since found out they only have the upstream sensors and the Rave Manual has errors in it! The pins are correct and are shown later in the manual correctly but on the earlier page they are labeled incorrectly.
I have also used my OBDII cable and checked the lamdas there which both appear to be functioning correctly.
Should have chance to have a good look over tomorrow - still got me stumped but I believe it's running on 7 cylinders
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I've been running some OBDII software today which monitors the lamda sensors and it says both are working fine so I think they are OK.
I think for some reason a cylinder isn't firing or has low compression etc. So the fuel is just getting pushed out, just trying to figure out why now
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Thanks fridge, I had read about a similar method (albeit with a stethascope), I'll give it a shot with a screwdriver!
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They are a 4 wire sensor, pin 33 is the output wire from one lamda, pin 34 is the output from the other. I have now got pin 33 working.
Pin 33 goes from 0-5v and all plugs on that side are black.
Pin 34 goes from 0-1v and all plugs look ok on that side
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Thanks mate, how do I check stuck/leaking injectors?
Do I just lift up the fuel rail, and turn on the key and watch for drips? (for leaking)
what about stuck injectors?
Metal Working Tools - looking at buying
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Thanks, space is a bit of a premium at the moment but once I've sorted everything out there should be a nice spot for the lathe, think I'm going to give the milling machine a miss at £100, but I'm very tempted my the lathe - just not sure that I'd use it that much, I also forgot to look if it had the automatic bit on the x axis for doing things like threads - which would be nice but I presume it hasn't got?
It all seemed to work well and seemed in very good nick, it's only had very light use making small brass bushes the biggest being about the size of a 2p coin by about 1cm deep, and it's only done 1 or 2 of these a month. I presume they got it second hand so no idea what it did in a previous life though