sotal
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Posts posted by sotal
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I've got a motorbike in the garage which hasn't moved for going on 4 years, I start it every 6 months or so and it still starts up perfectly every time, it's a 600cc.
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Depends what you need it for and what your expectations are for it
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Just got the 150 peice Pro Socket Set based on the positive reviews the advanced kit gets on here,
Normal Price: £199.99 - Trade Price: £97.49
Also Got a pair of adapters (1/2 inch down to 3/8 and 3/8 down to 1/4) again in the pro range.
Normal Price: £4.19 - Trade Price: £3.35
Also got a couple of Bottles of 10w40 Part synth Oil, and a bottle of coolant (not sure on prices of the top of my head but saved about £15 off these in total)
It was a bit of a toss up between the 120 peice at £89.99 or the 150 at £97.49, I was worried that all you got for the extra was just some screwdriver bits and allen keys so ended up working it out first.
For the Extra £8 or so you get:
16mm Spanner
15mm Spanner
8/10mm Ratchet Spanner
12/13mm Ratchet Spanner
17/19mm Ratchet Spanner
19mm 3/8 Deep Socket
4mm 1/4 Deep Socket
5mm 1/4 Deep Socket
6mm 1/4 Deep Socket
7mm 1/4 Deep Socket
11mm 1/4 Deep Socket
10 x Allen Keys
9 x Bits
So seemed worth it!
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I've no idea what make it is, I'll check later but am I right in thinking that spares from any tester should work as it's only going from one thread to another?
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I've done a lot of reading on it, so have learnt the basics of why it happens, but what I couldn't find was any real detail on how far they would slip.
From advice on another forum I have pretty much determined that they haven't slipped, but it's still unknown if the block is cracked behind the liner.
The advice given to me is to pressure test the block before I proceed, but I'm in a similar position to LandyManLuke in that I don't really want to through money at it, I'm quite tempted to just but the new gaskets on which I have and rebuild, then check for problems then. Having it running in any state will also allow me to diagnose any other problems with the car such as gearbox or suspension problems which I am unable to check at the moment. If there is enough else wrong with the car then I may as well scrap it!
The only sure way to fix this is to have it top hat linered, but it looks like it's going to cost £850+ to do that
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I've got a compression tester which I've had for years, used a couple of times on motorbikes and cars - but not used for at least 5 years due to only having diesels
Anyway just dug it out as it will be needed with the V8, and I seem to have lost the adapters it came with, anyone know if they're a standard item which can be replaced?
Also does anyone know what size the adapter would need to be? The pipe from the tester looks small (guessing at 10mm?) and the range rover spark plugs look big - again guessing at 14mm?
Thanks
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I want to make sure that my liners are all in the right place and that they haven't slipped.
First Question - Which way do liners slip? Up or Down - or is it either?
Second question - Should the top of the liner be perfectly level with the block, or should it sit up slightly or down slightly?
Third question - What distance are we talking about them slipping, articles I have read mention words like "significantly" which makes me think it would be quite obvious.
All this is with reference to a GEMS 4.6 V8
The reason I ask is I currently have both heads off, and I thought I could feel a very minute difference with my finger nail - my father-in-law who is more experienced with engines etc said he couldn't feel it. I think that 3 of the liners are perfectly level whilst 5 are ever so slightly raised. I'm not even talking a thou based on what I can tell with the feeler guages. Does this sound normal, or is it a sign of a problem?
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out of interest what does a full set of gen 3's cost at a good price? I see some sites still offering gen 2's are they any worse? or cheaper?
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Converting to coils = major chassis change = not tax exempt any more.
That's how it works for the UK I presume Ireland is similar?
In the UK it would have to be SVA'd and Q plated to be legal on the road. Many people have done it though and do get away with it but the DVLA is supposed to be watching forums like this to work out who is. All in all not the best idea - I'd go for parabolics if you must have something, but the suspension isn't the worst thing on a series - good condition original leaf springs work suprisingly well.
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Does anyone know if you get any discount off the pro set that's on sale at the moment? The 120pc is currently £89.99 - Just wondered if anyone knew what it was with the trade card?
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Just went and took that rubber bung out, there was a large hiss of air as it was removed, I then moved the arm all the way up and back down, no oil came out and I can't see any so it must be a bit low, as the arm went down there was a lot of gurgling noises.
I then replaced the bung and tried it, I lifted something fairly light - 70kgs ish on the longest setting and it went all the way up no problem.
So it looks good - will get some more oil and top up though
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Will do, there is no sign of any leaks at all.
I pumped it up and down by hand twice I think and it started working so hopefully it is just trapped air. I'll try and get a bottle of fluid and top it up.
Thanks again for the help
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Thanks for that - was yours having the same problem?
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Thanks Orange,
It's a Clarke CFC1000:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cfc1000-1-t-econ-folding-workshop-cran
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I bought a second hand engine hoist last year, and it did a perfect job of removing my gearbox,
but when I came to put it back in the other day it didn't do a perfect job!
I put the chains around the gearbox and lifted it up, it got about 3 inches up then wouldn't lift any more, I lowered it back down took the chains off etc and loosened the bit to allow it to lower, once all the way down I lifted it by hand all the way to the top and back down a few times, then tightened the release bit and it pumped up fine, so I lifted the gearbox to a good height. Then left it for half an hour or so while I moved the cars around to give enough room, but then when I got to putting it in I could have done with being an inch or so higher but it wouldn't go up, it just pumps with no resistance, by leaning on the back of the gearbox I managed to get it in and connected up, and I haven't touched the hoist since.
There are no signs of any leaks, my father in law suggested that the cold weather may have caused it?
Do I need to top it up or something?? Excuse the retarded question but how do I top it up? Anything else to check?
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I put both propshafts on tonight, had to do both as I'd left them connected to the diffs so they would spin otherwise. Didn't take long just need a new nut for the rear prop shaft as I had to use one somewhere else where I destroyed a nut.
Seems to work fine in first and reverse going up and down the drive, it's a bit odd sitting on the fuel tank though
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My garden isn't that big and would soon be destroyed
- Will have to stick to the drive.Will try it with just the rear prop shaft to start with, it's just so cold and dark all the time. I finished the Gearbox about a month ago - just haven't had time due to christmas, then the drive has been covered in snow since before Christmas.
Just got sick of it in the end and just got on with it on Sunday but could do with it warming up a bit now!
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Managed to get the gearbox refitted yesterday evening in the snow/dark!
All went well in putting it back in and I did a couple of quick tests without the prop shafts connected.
All gears worked well and did as they were supposed to, no funny noises, no leaks (yet).
Could just do with the rest put together and a mot for it so I can use it at the moment! Can't see me being finished until April though
Next job is to attach propshafts and go up and down the drive
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As geoff points out, the speakers are IIRC all amplified, it may be slightly tricky.
If it's like the last one I fitted it doesn't need a radio mute etc, it takes the speakers going in one side and then lets the sound come out the other side, if a call comes in it switches over automatically. It's only meant to work with standard speakers and cables though - so not sure how you'll get on - then there is the extra odd bits like the amp and sub for the rear. I bet they'll be on separate cables so how will you mute them?
Good luck with it! Let us know how you get on
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Its a shame decent affordable diagnostics arent available for these trucks like they are for some other vehicles.
For our A4 I baught a cable from ebay for a tenner and downloaded some free shareware software which allows me to read fault codes on most pre-2001 VAG models, and for around £200 you can buy a licence for the same software and an upgraded lead that will work on any VAG motor from the early 90's to present, and also allow you to alter settings and features in all the different electronic systems, reprogram the immobiliser and suchlike!
Although it does sound like the prices are heading in the right direction, i'll have to take a look at these new products.
I guess i'll be sticking with the disco for a while longer yet, but when it dies i'll have to have another look.
Cheers
I've got the same VAG-COM cable for our Ford Galaxy, it's excellent for a tenner and does so much, last time I looked the full version of the software was £85, but the free version does most things needed - it would be good if something similar was released for the p38 though, It does seem to be getting better though - the free EAS software looks good
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Hmmm, I've got two chips on mine which are down to bare metal, I know for a fact they've been there for over a year they're still shiny silver, so I don't think the body is standard steel.
One chip is next to the rear cluster on the side, and the other is on the bonnet.
As for diagnostics, you can change the VIN on the BBS Faultmate but it incurs and admin fee (£50 IIRC)
BBS have just announced a new product though which will be launched in January for the p38 which will allow full diagnostic reading and resetting of fault codes for £199+VAT. It's a self contained unit so can be left in the glovebox. It doesn't have all the features of the faultmate but it looks to be good value for money and does most of what the average home mechanic would want to do.
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Thanks, I just thought the water pump might be easier now and as it's part of the cooling system etc etc.
With the thermostat is that the thermostat itself + gasket? The ones I was looking at include the housing etc do they still need a gasket? I'll try a stanley knife blade on the head to see if it removes the burr from the scratch if it does I'll try and assess how deep the scratches are.
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unfortunately I don't have the gasket
I think the mark does stick up ever so slightly should I rub it down at all?
Do you think I should change the waterpump and thermostat whilst I'm at it? - I have a new radiator to go on
Do you know if Geoff is right that they had composite gaskets from the factory?
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This image shows the only evidence I could see of it blowing between at all:
Cheap diagnostic equipment
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
That's why I asked what you need it for, and what you want to do with it.
As LandyManLuke says Nanocom is popular for td5 vehicles, another popular choice is Black Box Solutions offerings. There is the Faultmate MSV (offers everything the LR diagnostics does) or the Faultmate FCR (Full OBD Reader - reads all ECUs) The Black Box products cover Range Rovers from P38 on, Freelanders, Defenders, Dicoverys etc. The MSV costs about £500, the FCR costs about £200. The nanocom costs about £200ish.
The OBDII readers only read very basic data, and won't clear most faults so you will probably end up still needing to go to have it sorted, but again depends on what vehicle you have!!