manxrover

Hi I have the same problem, but can not find the reason, maybe someone will come up wiyh an answer. Brian

Hi Mine is the same timing chian rattling maybe getting ready for a change my one has done 160.000mls and still going. Brian

Hi My RR DSE P38 1997 has for some reason lost half of the screen on the dashboard I can only read half of the mileage, does anyone know if it is a bulb that illuinates the screen or is it a LCD screen. if so can it be replaced, or how easy is a bulb change. Regards Brian

Hi Wayne Let me know how you get on and see if you one does the same, maybe it only happens to auto boxes. Brian

Hi Guys Just to add my two penneth, today we had very heavey snow so never driving my DSE auto on snow and ice I went out for a play, I found that if you selected low box hill decent gear 1 on desending the hill all four wheels locked up and I went for a nice slide before changing to gear 2 which released the lockup and the ABS kicked in applying the brakes when needed. I must admit its a bit scarey but if you let the vehicle do its bit its ok. I also tried applying the brakes whilst in low box and got the same results a bouncy brake pedal and a lot of noise from the ABS. So I suggest you try decending in a gear that is suitable for the gradient and let the vehicle control the decent, I tried several decents using different gears and found that if the gear is to low all four wheels lockup, and you have no control of the decent even steering, maybe its different on gravel or sand not so slippy. Regards Brian

Hi Missed your first post about cold starting, is it a BMW diesel, as they suffer from cold start problems, easey to fix with acold start kit from ebay about £20 and easey to fit may fit other diesel models. I fitted one 3 months ago and had no starting problems since. Brian

Hi It sounds like the head gasket, maybe the head has also cracked, with it expanding owing to the heat build up. I had simular problems with my DSE, but on advice from the forum I tried K Seal, and 10k later still running fine. Maybe you could try it as a quick fix, I did and it worked. Brian

Hi Many thanks followed your instructions now all woking fine, just the dash to tackel next Regards Brian

Hi All, Can anyone tell me how to remove the unit with the screen, as the lights on the right hand side have gone out. and also removing part of the dash to get at the fuel release switch which has stuck down. Regards Brian

Hi check the oil in the gearbox,low oil normally causes this type of problem, once the oil gets warm its ok. Brian

Hi I had the same type of problem, I was told by my mate "make sure you select Nutral first dont go straight from high to low" or visa versa as it wont change,I tried this and it sorted my problem. Brian

Hi I had the same problem with my Freelander and it turned out to be the fuel filter, it got worse and worse until it stopped, we found the fuel filter was almost blocked, only alowing a small amount of fuel through. Hope this helps. Brian

Hi Yes I have. Regards Brian

Hi All I seem to have a problem with the heaters on my RR P38 DSE, the passenger side heater is blowing cold, the drivers side is OK. Any ideas. Regards Brian

Hi all Just a follow up to my last post about my RR P38 DSE loosing water and oil (suspected head gasket) repaired with K seal. Well now done some 2000 miles since the K Seal repair and it is still holding, I now have pressure in the cooling system the following morning so the head seems to have sealed. So fingers crossed "how long will it last". So thanks guys for the advice and long live K seal. regards Brian

Hi. It did in my 97 RR clogged all the filters, and took three filter changes before it cleared and started running with no smoke ( smelling of chip fat ). Might be the problem with high emisions, can you see or smell any odours from the exhaust. Brian

Hi all. Can any one tell me if an alarm sensor ( above passenger door) from another Landrover RR. HSE Disco etc will fit the DSE as they all seem to look the same, I have an alarm fault showing on the dash and I have been told the alarm sensor is duff. Regards Brian

Hi If I ever bump into you I will buy a pint or two. Regards Brian

Hi Steve Yes I checked this before I concluded it was the head or headgasket that was causing the pressure. I have replaced the flame trap and filter as it was all gunged up with a grey oiley sludge. Regards Brian

Hi Guys As promised part two. Refilled the coolant system, and took the RR out for a 30 mile run, stopping every 5 miles or so to check for any signs of oil blowing from the dipstick, after the second stop I found a very small amount of oil had leaked from the filler cap, cleaned it off and caried on. the steam coming from the rocker breather had almost stopped, just a light plume of oil smoke. On reaching home giving the RR some hammer over the last five miles I found no sign of any leaks from the cooland, level still the same, no oil had leaked from the dip stick, and no smoke of any kind. The only major difference I found was, before I treated the engine with Kalimex the coolant hoses wher rock solid, but now after 30 miles they seem softer can be depressed with not a lot of pressure. So the over all result was a sucsess, so to sum up the problem must have been the head gasket allowing exhaust gasses into the coolant and coolant leaking into the exhaust, thats why there was no signs of leaking coolant, allowing the build up of pressure in the crankcase and the only escape was the dipstick. Many thanks for the tips and advice from the forum. Regards Brian

Hi The oil is fine not water or sludge build up, nice and brown only done 200 mile since last change, but will take your advice and change it again, to make sure. Regards Brian

Hi Guys K SEAL part one. Got the K Seal not the one I ordered, this one is not antifreeze frendly so had to flush the system first. run the engine upto temp. After about 10 minutes the breather from the rocker cover was like an eletric kettle with the amount of steam coming from it, then inserted the K Seal and waited and waited then after about 30 mins the steam subsided to a trickle. I was unhappy about the coolant temp as it seemed not to get very warm, so I took the RR for a short drive, no oil blowing water level dropped a tad. Went for a second longer run, no oil, no water loss, just drained the system to allow to stand for a min. 4 hours recomended 12 hours to cure, so it says on the tin. So as part one goes its stopped whatever leak I had cracks, or even the head gasket. I will post part two when I have refilled the system and gave here a good run. Regards Brian

I have ordered some K Seal, so I will see what happens and post the results, fingers crossed. Brian