ldtopham

Orange. I'm not sure if I misunderstood your post,do you mean you can order from Bearmach over the phone? Their products seem to be well regarderd so I could do with finding a local distributor. Anyone reccomend one in West Yorkshire?

Cheers. I have just used both Island 4x4 and L.R Series (for genuine gaskets) for all parts except the bearing in Nigel's link. I'm going to mull this one over. I see Bearmach list distributors on their website but some of the sites listed don't necessarily say whether the part you are buying is Bearmach manufactured or not? Are there any recommended Bearmach online shops for future items? Sorry for all the novice questions but I'm am LR newbie, thanks again.

Les, it isn't the viscous unit that has play in it but the bearing and mounting flange integral to the timing cover that the pulley mounts on. It feels very lumpy and has noticeable play. I don't like the idea of a new cover £££ has anyone in the UK got a workaround? I notice a few of the Aussie sites use modified bearings from Ford waterpumps but can't find any info from the UK? I have access to ovens and bearing presses but need a suitable bearing.

Thanks for the advice. 'P' gasket now on my list. Just changed the fan belt tensioner bearing for £3.40...result. Is there a one stop Land Rover shop for parts? I have had a few suppliers recommended but none seem to stock everything I need. To keep postage down can anyone recommend a supplier (of decent quality parts). One name keeps popping up as somewhere not to shop, it was something like Esso or Shell....I can't recall

Thanks for the warning, I pulled the gear and noticed the o ring What is the P gasket? Power steering pump? The pump doesn't appear to be leaking however the hose that is jubillee'd at the pump base was loose and leaking.

I have had the time tonight to get on with the cam belt change. I hadn't ordered anything as I was unsure what would be lurking under the timing cover. Here is what I have found; - Front crank end oil seal is leaking, Going to buy a genuine item from LR - Timing cover crank seal shot. Going to buy a genuine item from LR - The modded timing kit is already fitted all be it the spot welded lip type crank gear. I was going to buy the kit from Island 4x4, can anyone confirm if the lower crank gear supplied with their kit is the Bearmach type pulley? I'm going for a complete kit as the idler bearing is shot. - The water pump bearing is shot - Should I go for a cast impeller type replacement pump also from Island 4x4 or standard water pump? - There is about 5mm radial play in the P/S pump drive flange, is this an indicator of failure or the norm? - I never noticed the viscous fan squealing but the bearing does have considerable play. Would you just fit and forget or is there a supplier for this bearing. Searching old threads suggests this could be a potential can of worms? I may sound like I'm over concerned but whilst I have it apart now is the time to sort any niggles. I am unsure of which supplier/s are best choice and don't want to be fitting poor quality parts. All advice greatly appreciated. On the plus side I now have an air tight intercooler to re-fit Going to see how much a re-core on the rad will be tomorrow.

Thanks for the info. I presume that I can omit the EGR ECU (as previously mentioned I am going to remove the EGR valve anyway). Then the 3 pin EGR diagnostic plug and loom can be removed. Regarding the 12V supply/ fuse and the OBD connector - Are they both necessary for normal functioning of the alarm and immobiliser (mine still works.....for how long who knows)? If they are not then I can get rid of these too? How is the OBD alarm/immobiliser system utilised/ what is the purpose of it? Reason being I am fitting a centre seat and could do with tidying up what looks like an after thought of loom. If there is no gain from removing the OBD and 12V fused sockets I will leave them there and just remove the EGR ECU and related electrickery. Cheers, Lee

Ok, I have made a start on the cam belt change and am awaiting parts. During cleaning the intercooler out with thinners I noticed that the core is leaking and the rad is on its last legs so these need to be ordered too. I'm just debating fitting a Brunel uprated cooler in advance of injector pump, EGR, and possible bost tweaks but don't know if I can stretch the budget just yet as there is a whole heap of other parts I know I will need.....bushes, ball joints, dampers............Does anyone have a spare 300tdi IC going cherpy cheap cheap? Anyhow back on topic, whilst waiting for parts I've started to clear some of the muck out of the cab (ex-small holding Landy) and found 3 sets of wires under the centre front seat base. Can some one shed some light on what they are for? I will be removing the EGR system in due course but what are the 3 terminals? One is a black rectangular multi plug just in shot, one in the centre has a 7.5amp fuse fitted and lastly the round plug that contains 3 pins??? Many thanks, Lee

I used to have a horse shoe over my last garage door.......might have to stick one up again I had thought about visible security but I don't want it to look like there is more than just the Landy for them to be interested in. I have spoken to the old dear over the road as she doesn't miss a trick. Any sign of a tow vehicle (that's what it'll need to move it) and she'll give me a bell. She's the kind that some would call a nosey neighbour....to be honest in this day and age I see that as the sign of a good neighbour! We have just had the birth of our third child this week (all under 4 years ) no way could I manage a dog at the minute too! Always kept the riff-raff away when I lived with my parents though.

Hi Nick, Im not too far away I have close family that are area Police and they have said there is a higher than normal activity in the area and to be carefull. Aparently as building work has slowed and scrap metal has dropped in value the scum are back to breaking cars

Ok. I've had a look and I do indeed have the spider within the area of the battery. I'll maybe get a tech at work to look the joints over and make some subtle changes to the alarm system both in volume and location of parts. Should be simple to do. Thanks for the tips

We went to Crufts a few years back and of all the dogs on show the English Bull Terrier was the one that I was most drawn to. If I recall correctly the missus rather fancied the Lhaso Apso.....needles to say we didn't agree on each others choice and are still without a dog

Ha ha. In the past I have not had a problem confronting scoundrels. However now I've grown up a bit I have to realize that there are a certain cut of folk that to be honest I don't want hassle from. Having 3 young children the last thing I want to get into is a vendetta on home soil Secure it, insure it and fingers crossed I guess. Maybe we'll be getting a 'family' dog sooner than I had hoped Ah well I guess now we have the Landy we have room to put it in the back!

Following on from Unwanted interest I have bought a Haynes manual. As it doesn't describe the alarm system can anyone tell me whether a 1997 110 300TDI CSW alarm is a reliable unit? I have searched and found info relating to the 'spider' and dry joints causing cutting out conditions but also posts that describe later tdi's may not have a spider system. If I do have a later system a. How can I tell and b. Is it reliable or should it be on my list of jobs to modify/disable to aid reliability. The alarm didn't work when I bought the vehicle but since changing the key fob (2 button) battery it appears to work fine. I'm fine with PM's if people don't want to share alarm specifics Cheers.

I've done as much as possible to secure it which is way ott, but given I am doing the cam belt and general servicing isn't a big deal. Once it's back on the deck and fully road worthy I'll be a little more concerned. Sadly just a sign of the times.

Not quite Dick Turpin but in the time we've lived here I have never had 'Joe Bugner' call to quote for the drive taramcing until I bought the LR that is. Just a coincidence in timing? Gut instinct had the alarm bells ringing, hopefully it'll come to nowt. I have no problem with the description, he had some very distinguishing features should it come to anything

So I've had the Landy 1 week and yesterday I answered the door to ' Do you want the drive tarmacing.....' Doesn't look like it needs doing does it? was my reply. Do you want to sell the LR No. I got rid of them asap. Needless to say security state is currently at highest level I hope the LR isn't going to be a magnet for the wrong 'ens. Winds me up to hell, you work hard, pay taxes and then someone just thinks they can help themselves to whatever they want! Extra measures have been taken since the visit but I'm sleeping lightly at the minute, Rant over. Keep em secure fellas.

Thanks Ralph. It's like being shown around school for the first time

Does anyone have a pt# for the wading plug normally fitted to a Defender 300tdi 110 CSW bellhousing? I require one so that it can be modified to help with cam timing Regards.

Unless they are fitted they are missing. My tool kit consists of the supplied high lift jack, wheel brace and wheel chock, that is all. I'll measure the pitch and thread diameter tonight in the bellhousing. Then I can centre drill a suitable bolt and fasten a suitably sized insert through it. Interestingly the main dealers have just quoted £54+ the dreaded for cam belt kit 2 and £21+VAT for the crank front oil seal. The aftermarket suppliers are asking £70 for the cam belt kit 2 (STC4096K) go figure? Maybe my initial reserve of the dealers was unfair!

I wouldn't normally go to the stealers but have only ever fitted OEM cambelt kits. I'll try the companies listed and see if I can pick up an OEM kit at discount over the main dealers. Are the wading plugs a standard size? Is there likely to be one fitted elsewhere on the vehicle that I can 'borrow' for the job. I'll just plug the drilled hole that I have to make when done if that's the case. I can make a puller for the crank pulley no problem.

Funny you should mention the tool sales pitch as I read the Difflock article yesterday and thought just the same! I have the tech article from this site ready to print off and will be speaking to my local LR dealer tomorrow for a price on the cambelt kit 2. Compared to what I'm used to working on, being able to simply roll under the Landy to inspect the underside is a real treat Really looking forward to getting started.

Thanks for the welcome Ralph. I followed the link in your sig Having spent the last hour browsing the tech archives it would appear I have a lot to check out. I will start with the cambelt change. Cheers, Lee

Hello, I have just bought a Defender 110 CSW 300TDI and thought I would introduce myself. I am new to LR ownership but have driven a few mostly on road with a little off roading (including a course in N.Yorks) in previous employmnet. I live in West Yorkshire and have an interest in all things mechanical, mainly 4 wheeled but used to be into bikes too. I work in development for a large diesel engine company and get a lot of time working on engines, turbos' and fabricating. We (the wife and I!) have just bought the above for throwing the kids bikes/ pushchairs in as well as tip runs and general weekned work. I fancied it as I knew I would be able to get plenty of 'spannering in' and the wife liked the idea of 12 seats (3 kids are enough but handy to be able to take friends out with us). The kids needed no convincing, one look at one and they were sold I have always liked the character of the LR and the fact that it is a British icon had me sold. I bought a vehicle which I know needs some work but the chassis is in a condition that allows me to carry out most other repairs without taking it off the road for too long. It is a second vehicle for us. I have been on the hunt for a 110 CSW with tips from various sites on what to look out for when buying for about a month. I viewed 3 in total, above, below and on budget to get a feel of what I would get for my money. I managed to find a low mileage 2 owner 1997 CSW that has spent the last 9 years on a small holding. I think the underside has never been cleaned as everything had about 4" of dry mud protecting it. Needless to say the chassis is in excellent conditon and the original factory finish is clearly intact. The bulkhead is perfect as is the original rear cross member. Overall it is in sound condition. It isn't without fault though as I clearly need to undertake some mechanical repairs. Mainly (in order that they bug me): - Lash in the drive line is obviously excessive, not worked out where to start on this one yet. - The cam belt requires replacemnt as I have no receipt for works (65,000mile to date) - Engine service for piece of mind. - The steeering has more play than I would expect, already looked into this and the steering box seems to be where most of the input is dissapearing. - The front RH caliper seizes if not driven for 2 days, piston/ seal cx - Check all the usual bushes and ball joints as some are shot just by visually checking - The wheels are non standard and I would prefer to replace them with an original style but am not sure what was original fitment? I have sorted security the best I can, going on recommendation of previous posts. That's about all for now. I have read the newbie intro and can see a mine of info to trawl through. Is there a membership fee or is it donation only? I am a member of another vehicle club and maintain membership to help the web site running as it has been invaluable in it's info and will do the same here. Maybe even contribute once I work out my way around the thing!! Regards, Lee