ldtopham

Thanks Dave, I am going to wire it as you suggest. Just trying to find a location that is secure for the isolator. Regards, Lee

You got me there Ralph.......I should have downloaded it a good month or so ago like you suggested Cheers!

Can someone please post up a diagram with parts numbers for all components outboard of the axle casing. I have just been checking over the rear and the n/s wheel bearing was way loose. On closer inspection it looks like a gorilla has been working on it before me and made a mess of the bearing adjustment. I require the part numbers from the drive member to the inner oil seal that separates diff oil from wheel bearings. The bearing grease is heavily diluted with diff oil. Looks like this may be an expensive list as the half shaft splines are twisted too and the stub axle damaged beyond repair due to the overtight bearing Thanks in advance. Lee

I am just getting the parts together to fit a battery isolator. I am using a Durite removable cut key style isolator but would like to retain the supply to the alarm and radio using a fused bypass. I use this type of isolator on another vehicle and think it is a good bit of kit. The plan is to be able to isolate all the electrical circuits apart from the radio (to save re-entering code) and alarm system. My questions are: 1. Has anyone checked the current draw when the alarm and siren sound? 2. If it is possible to fit a bypass supply to the alarm system where can I pick up the supply wire for the alarm system? (I appreciate this is an open forum so please PM this one) 3. Does the standard Land Rover alarm system have a battery back up for the siren if supply voltage is lost? Thanks in advance.

I didn't expect replies as quick as that! Cheers fellas. As for checking integrity the only way (legally) would be to have them SVA checked. The SVA centre wouldn't do any structural testing more a design check and material spec check. I have SVA'd a vehicle that had a (home made 50mm OD 3mm wall thickness) 3 point roll bar that had harness shoulder mounts mounted on the same structure. I did liaise with the testers and got a good idea for what they wanted to see..........doesn't particularly make it any good just what they wanted to see For insurance purposes I will be leaving the lap belt in and this will be for road use, the 3 point belt just for off road As it will be used by my children it will be of sound construction, and very belt and braces. Looking at the factory mounts for the 2nd row seats and the lap belt mounts I have no doubt my mount will be up to the job. I am thinking about mounting from the large steel work where the rear bench lap belt tube meets behind the second row seats (I'm sure there is a name for this area). Using 50mm dia 3mm wall CDS tube it will angle up from each side to the height of the shoulder area where the centre section of maybe 600mm length will be horizontal (within sva specs for min height from seat base). I will then weld 2 angled braces of the same CDS down to the load area where they will be plated and bolted through the floor with spreader plates. This is my plan unless the measurements mean a re-think. I'll take some photos along the way and post back. Thanks again

It's a long shot I know, but does anyone have the 2nd row Exmoor high backs with extension kit fitted to their Defender 110? If so would you be so kind to measure how high the shoulder part of the seat (not the head restraint height) is from the rear load area floor. Also if possible how far back the seat back is in relation to the steel plate mounted just below the 2nd row seat belt upper mounts at the same shoulder height as described above......hopefully that makes sense. I have ordered a set today but they won't be ready until the end of July due to my fabric requirement. As we are taking the LR on holiday in August I am going to tack the metal work for spanning the rear for the mounting of a 3 point centre seat belt whilst waiting for the seats to turn up. Any help appreciated. I did check with the supplier but they didn't have a Defender in the workshop to measure. Cheers, Lee

Thanks Ralph. Parts ordered

I guess so. I was unlucky as one of the seals was not in good fettle. To be honest I would want to fit new replacements anyway. Live and learn......cost me £70 for a replacement caliper from Keith Gott.

I thought I would update this thread. If you have the later Defender front calipers used with vented discs then do not attempt to split the calipers to clean or otherwise. The cross seals (x2 per caliper) are not available from any source that I could find. Even Lockheed now trading under a different name told me that they will not supply anyone including re-sellers. I tried many Land Rover parts suppliers and they told me similar. So if your calipers are grubby and you consider splitting them be warned. Regards, Lee

Can someone please tell me if the TD5 door hinges will fit a 1997 Defender 300TDI? I am led to believe that they are a better design than the standard equipment. If someone would be so kind, I require upper and lower for the n/s rear door and any other associated fitting items. Many thanks, Lee

I wonder how other folks have overhauled the vented type calipers? I can't re-use the seals removed as they have minor damage to the seal face. Thanks for taking the time to look, I will try and e-mail someone who has previously gone through the procedure and see how they got around the problem. Here's hoping that my only option is a s/h caliper as I have only split the one so far. Cheers,

I don't have 4 seals per caliper? I've split them tonight so that I can clean them 'good and proper' tomorrow but there are only 2 seals per caliper. Each has a removable steel insert through the middle. They are about 12mm deep rubber sleeves that pass through the spacer blocks in each caliper thus sealing each side on the one common seal. Don't suppose you have a number for this type do you? I can take pics tomorrow evening if need be but google isn't bringing anything up. Thanks,

As an aside I fitted a boost tapping on both the inlet manifold (nr the bulkhead) and the comp outlet to fuel pump. This was so I could see the pressure drop over the cooler and see whether a modified intercooler is making much difference over stock. Both the inlet manifold and EGR are instrumentend for temp too. I am currently at stock fuel pump settings and turbo set up. I measured 900mB (gauged) at the comp out tapping and 800mB at the inlet manifold. So a 100mB pressure drop across the standard intercooler and associated pipework (I fitted new new hoses and flushed the IC). I calibrated my gauge on a Druck at work so have a little left in the turbo yet. It was rebuilt only a few weeks ago and the wastegate adjustment left as standard. As the circlip for the wastgate is awkward to get to I have fastened a piece of stainless locking wire around it and with a decent loop on the end. It can now be removed and re-fitted in situ for easier adjustments of the wastegate. I'm not going to tweak anything until I get my therocouple lcd screen made up, then the fun will start

So, I'll start with the big levers on the radius rods and see what that shows up. I presume this is the standard test for worn bushes? As I'm servicing the brakes I may as well dig deeper. My Dad turned up today with his 300TDI Disco and there was considerably less back lash in his front axle so I'll start here and see whether I end up on the rear axle at a later date I took his for a drive and it was so much smoother between gear changes. Looks like the spanners are going to be out for some time yet I'll go as far as the CV joints and if it shows nothing then will have to suspect the backlash in the diff. I have built and modified 2 Jag LSD's so hopefully it will be within my capabilities. I was hoping for a pointer on 'you should first look at.......' as I am very new to all things Land Rover. Best regards.

OK, I have just finished the cam belt cx and ended up getting carried away. In the end as there was some much oil build up on the comp inlet and boost side of the turbo and into the ports I decided to take the head off and clean that up too. So since buying my first LR nearly 2 months ago I have: Replaced the: cam belt (modified kit) P gasket Front crank end seal Timing case oil seal Viscous fan Water pump Idler tensioner bearing Repaired a leaky Intercooler Flushed IC De-coked the head Re cut the valves and lapped them in New head gasket Cleaned and pressure checked the injectors 190BAR Welded a crack in the rocker cover where it appeared someone had at some stage either incorrectly adj #1 rocker or failed to put the pushrod in the follower correctly? Stripped and cleaned the turbo, inspected bearings/ re-balance and rebuild Fitted a TC to an EGR blanking plate - now omitting the egr system Replaced most rubber hoses and clips New auxiliary belt New crankcase breather Flushed the oil system New oil filter New Diesel filter New oil New air filter Pressure washed the engine Fixed leaky power steering pipe Red oxide and underseal the engine bay chassis I got it back together last night and had no problems with work done just a sticky r/h calliper. I've free'd it off for now but have a front repair kit and pads on the way as it seized up bad and will now almost definitely have glazed the pads. The caliper pistons are mighty rusty and will be replaced. My next job is to try and take some of the slack out of the drive line. If you baby the clutch it's fine but if I was to let my better half drive it it would be clunking all day long between gear changes I have so far noticed that with the front end in the air and turning the wheels back and forth there is considerable movement before the front diff output flange turns. Where/what would you recommend as a typical cause? I Haven't got as far as inspecting the props yet as this play seems excessive before the prop even starts to turn! We are planning on a 1 week holiday 'darn Sarf' (Somerset) in August and I'm hoping to iron out any issues before we set off. On the up side the steering doesn't have too much play in it Thoroughly enjoying spannering on it though Any advice welcomed.

I thank you. I'm not planning on splitting the calipers so the seal kit should do it. Ta.

Vented rotors. The link Ralph posted was for a full parts manual but as I'm at work I can't download from here Cheers.

I am looking for part numbers for a caliper repair kits both front and rear for a Defender 300tdi 1997. Still havn't had time to download the part number file that Ralph linked me to and suspect the repair kit may not be on there anyway? Many thanks.

Just the ticket, ta

Perfect, ta. Ralph is there a downloadable parts manual on the web as it would be ever so usefull to have? Just searched for ERR2405 and the postage most firms want for what is tiny is about 500% (50p for the item) the price of the part....oh well Thanks again.

Can any one please tell me the part number for a 1997 300tdi sprung clip that fits between the end set of rocker arms and keeps them pushed against the mounting pillars. I have searched Google for the most obvious descriptions but turned up nothing. The part doesn't show on my engine overhaul manual? Many thanks,

So very true. Each LR that is going to be tuned (to get the best from your state of tune) will be differnt to the next Land Rover depending on use, ie heavy towing, slow rpm work, cruising .... When I get the engine back together again (Cam belt change) I'll instrument it up and see where it is runing at stock before tweaks, for nothing more than out of interest I need to take the inlet manifold off for cleaning anyway so may as well fit a tamp boss on the turbo flange and a boost tapping/temp probe on the IM at the same time.

You have a point Red90. We see about 3 seconds difference in response times between the 2. What I did forget is that my experience of them is on 20ltr to 4 ltr engines, we do see a lot of bent/ broken T/C's but I would guess our duty cycles are a lot more aggresive than what a LR may be subject to. Out of interest does any one know the sustained EGT limit for the 300TDI engine?

I work with thermocouples daily. We often see EGT's of 750 deg C and find that 3mm solid probes tend to fail (they bend in the flow and often break on our test work) a lot earlier than a 6mm probe. Where ever possible we always fit 6mm probes as it isn't fun if a failed/burnt thermocouple gets ingested in to a turbo If it was me I would fit a solid 6mm probe, Even if you expect lower temps it will stand up to heat and exhaust pulses a whole lot better. Most temp probes are relatively slow in gauging compared to say pressure measurements but a general probe will be fine for sustained 'hill/ towing' EGT measurement. Hope this is of some help.

Thanks for the info all