V8 50

Great, I'll have a look at those thank you.

Hello, I'm having issues with my RRC, it's been running well but just recently when i started it from cold it cut out a few times whilst backing out of my driveway, I stopped it and started it again and all seemed fine, a few hours later i was driving along and it seemed to loose all go, I coasted into a layby and put it into neutral, the revs were surging between a few hundred and just under a thousand and there was no response to any throttle inputs. i stopped and started it again and it got me home, I'm just a little suspicious of it now! I've used a multimeter to check the voltage output from the TPS and it appears to scale smoothly, it's quite hard to tell with a digital one as the numbers jump a bit. Many thanks Charlie

Thanks for the advice, I'm going back to look at it in the morning so will try the above tips. Thanks Charlie

Hello, I went to look at a 1993 classic with a friend earlier, one thing that I noticed was that the pump for the the ABS would kick in pretty much every time the brake pedal was pressed. Is this a sign that the pump is on it's way out which I'm guessing is £££££ Or is it the accumulator which is just £££ Many thanks Charlie

Another variant on the heated screen wiring I'm afraid... I've searched but don't seem to be able to find an answer to my problem. I've just had a heated screen fitted and am going to use the factory timer to power the relay, what I want to do is use the same switch as the rear screen, I know normally the timer runs for 8 mins once it gets power from the standard switch and then turns off as the normal switch is a momentry item. If however i use the rear switch would the timer keep on going as it's getting a continuous power feed? Is there an easy way round this? Thanks Charlie

Hi, I tried some flushing oil, can't recall which one and then refilled with 20-50 oil, it maybe delayed the arrival of the tapping a little bit but decided to live with it for the time being, however this afternoon I left it idling for a bit whilst warm and every 2-3 minutes the noise would stop for 30 seconds or so then start again! Is it time to break out the spanners or should I wait and see, starting to get confused...... Cheers Charlie

My 1989 V8 90 is starting to make some spectacular noises from all the wrong places.... The gearbox (LT85 split case) has a healthy whirring coming from it whilst idling in neutral and a good whine once on the move from all gears except 4th which is silent, I suspect it needs a lot of tlc, if I was to go down the replacement route would I be better off with a split or solid case? The enging has devolped a bit of a tapping noise, it is only really noticeable at idle, once you start to increase the revs it eith disappears or is simply drowned out by other noises, one thing that is a bit odd is that when you start the car from cold it takes about 15-20 seconds before it actually starts, I have checked the exhaust manifold bolts and they're all pretty tight, if I remove the oil filler cap it does get louder, I'm guessing a tappet has given up? If I change the tappets I'm guessing I need to change the cam also, I have a pair of 1998 10 bolt heads at the back of the garage, would it be wise to use these with composite gaskets? Thanks for taking the time to look. Charlie

Thanks Chaps, I'll look at the small pipe from the inlet manifold first (free!) Then have a look at the thermostat and swap it out it need be. Thanks for your replies Charlie

Hi, I'm experiencing some strange things with my 1989 V8 90 CSW, whilst it's still warming up the temp guage will move all the way to the top of the white band and then some times a little beyond and then quickly settle back into the middle of the guage where it'll stay fairly consistently. Is this normal or is there a quick fix or is a sign of an impending disaster...... Thanks Charlie

Hi, I had to remove the coil from my 89 V8 90, however brain fade is getting the better of me and I have no idea how to re-connect the thing!! I was wondering if anybody here would be able to help? Thanks Charlie

Thanks for all the helpful advice, I think that I've managed to get them to a reasonable state of tune, well there's no black smoke out of the exhaust and the fumes don't make your eyes water and your throat hurt any more! Cheers Charles

Thanks for all the help I've learnt to keep an eye on the oil level in the dash pots already cheers I'll have a go at them later and see what havoc I can cause.....

Afternoon I'm looking for advice on setting the mixture on my SU carbs, I've tried searching but can't use the terms V8 or SU as they're less than 3 characters. My 3.5 is running very rich, i.e. it'll start in cold weather with no choke and you can see black smoke out of the exhaust which can't be good at idle! I've found the two mixture screws but have no idea which way enriches and which leans out the mixture Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Charles

It was, I have a rather loud Overfinch stainless system but I think the non-cat down pipes and catalysed ones are interchangeable as I fitted the stainless system to the standard down pipes but was a bit disappointed with the increase in noise (not enough!) so after speaking to Overfinch they said to get rid of the cats which resulted in an increase in performance as well as a fair bit more noise.

I think early Range Rover/Disco non cat auto downpipes should fit, that's what I'm using on my V8 50th instead of having the shockingly badly designed and restrictive cat jobbies. I think you can often get them on ebay from people who have gone for a tubular set up. Hope this helps. Charlie

Don't really have much in the way of fabbing skills, would be able to dismantle with the help of a angle grinder but that's pretty much where it ends!

Cheers for that, I have looked on the websites for info but was wondering if any one had recommendations of companies that were able to offer custom repair sections as the standard front dumbiron replacement part won't be long enough I don't think. I have emailed them to ask if it's possible to make up extended repair section. Charlie

Hi For some reason that I'm yet to fully understand I've just bought a 1989 90 V8 CSW as a bit of a hobby/keep me out of the pub job, which whilst not in bad condition over all needs the front drivers side chassis leg replacing from the steering box forward and the cross member under the rad. Does any one know of any companies that would be able to make up replacement sections? Cheers Charlie

They're perfect, thanks. Looks like a simple case of an effing big washer in true Land Rover fashion! Here was me expecting something a little more sophisticated........ Cheers Charlie

I'm currently "looking after" a 110 DCPU for a mate and have a query that I hope some one out there will be able to help with. It's fitted with alloys and the spare is just loose in the back, not ideal for a couple of reasons including the fact that it's bouncing all over the place and is available to any pikey to help themselves to should they take a fancy to it!! I can figure out that it mounts to the bulkhead behing the rear seats as there's a mounting bolt for it but I've got no nut or brackets. Does any one have one they could take a pic of so I can figure things out? (A bodge..) I've not got the hand book either. Cheers Charlie

Well after a couple of lenghty discussions with Mark Adams (who was very helpful and incredibly knowledgeable) it turns out that it's nothing more sinister than an intermittant fault with the throttle position sensor that gave a very low figure from time to time and the ECU was adjusting it's settings down to that. Which is a relif as the cost of a TPS is about £40 compared to the £1300 they wanted for the ECU on it's own!! Thanks for your help Charlie

Cheers for the replies. Yeah it's a GEMS jobbie on the defender, I'm starting to think there must be a few in there the price they want for one!! I'll give Mr Adams a call and see if he's got any ideas. I can't help but think that it could be better placed than about 12" from the exhaust manifold. I used to have a 300tdi, It was slow, stinky, rattled and I only managed 20mpg.........

I've been having problems with high idle speeds on my defender. I've had the stepper motor changed, that worked for about two weeks. The problem then returned, back to the dealership, they fitted a new coolant temp sensor and the problem went away for another couple of weeks. Guess what? A couple of weeks later its idling at about 2k rpm again (not helpful in an auto!!). So back to the dealer it goes they reckon that they may not have set all the "adjustables" correctly which they then do and give it back to me. Lo and behold on sunday it starts misbehaving again so back to the dealer, they are stumped so they call the factory, who helpfully say check as per a NAS spec car which they do and still can't find a problem, the problem apparently is that the brain is forgetting it's base settings, The fix is a new brain, a snip at a mere £1,335 Which I don't want to pay! So I have a few questions to the wise and helpful..... Can I fit one from a P38 Rangie and get it coded to my alarm? Does any one refurbish these things? Any ideas greatfully received Thanks

Evening Another person jumping ship......