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geoffbeaumont last won the day on October 12 2018

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About geoffbeaumont

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    Back at the oars

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    Wellington, Somerset

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  • Interests
    Avoiding computers (I work in IT). Caving, hillwalking (no bobble hat), youth work and fixing Land Rovers. No time for any of those those, though - too busy fixing the shed of a house we bought...

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  1. geoffbeaumont

    New Series - RR Heavy

    Yeah, but...Vogue SE
  2. geoffbeaumont

    Hoses left over on a 3.9 EFI

    Ah - I must have had one of those on my '93, but I've no recollection of it!
  3. geoffbeaumont

    Hoses left over on a 3.9 EFI

    First one sounds like the vacuum advance to the distributor? Not sure about the other one - I vaguely recall something similar, but I thought I'd added it to run to the Megasquirt. Don't have the truck any more to check for you
  4. geoffbeaumont

    New workshop project

    Could put pallet racking in front of the wall. Probably with some thin-ish sheet ply on the back to stop anything getting pushed back and fouling the door. Although that'd be a nightmare dirt trap, so maybe better to just stack the shelves properly...
  5. geoffbeaumont

    The "Pass the Bucket" 4x4 For Sale on Ebay Thread

    Wonder how much LPG it would use trying...
  6. geoffbeaumont

    V8 pinning liners

    The Rover V8 was used in both MGB V8 and RV8 as well as the Costello MGB V8 conversions that inspired the factory version, and they're also popular for aftermarket conversion particularly of the MGB. They're a common topic on MG forums.
  7. geoffbeaumont

    Monobolt sizes

    This sounds like one for Western...
  8. geoffbeaumont

    Maxtrax Alternatives

    But...n But....no substitute for having the right tyres and not getting stuck in the first place? I've no idea what the "right" tyres for sand are, or whether either of the ones mentioned by the OP are any good, though, so I'm not going to be any more helpful...
  9. geoffbeaumont


    Does it still go down if you inhibit the EAS from the dash or by leaving the upper tailgate open? That should stop the controller opening and closing valves, so if it still goes down then you've narrowed the cause to a leak. Assuming that, the next step is to find the leak. In theory for both front and back to go down you'd need to have at least two leaks, but I guess you may find only one does this when the system is inhibited and can't try to level things up. A handheld plant sprayer with water and washing up liquid is your friend. Give the air springs and air lines a good soaking and look for bubbles. Where the plastic lines cross above the exhaust is worthy of close attention - if the exhaust has every corroded through there (even in the past) they can be melted and fail later. The actual valves in the valve block leaking is also possible. Bit harder to prove, but they can be DIY rebuilt (everything on the P38 EAS can be DIY'd - it's not nearly as scary as some people make out). Do you have any fault codes from the EAS system?
  10. geoffbeaumont

    RRC Heater upgrade

    And I think (having had both types of dash out - but some time ago), also modifications to the bulkhead. At one time I purchased a softdash (as fitted to final couple of years of RRC) dash with the intention of fitting it to my '93 RR - in large part to get a better heater and vent ducts that were properly sealed - but in the end decided to stick with the original. Partly down to ergonomics (the softdash looks good but controls are not positioned as well as on the previous version), but mainly because I realised it was a bigger job than I'd anticipated. There were various areas I'd have had to modify to fit the softdash, but I'm fairly certain the area around the heater was one of the more significant ones. The heater box is a different shape and has the water pipes through the bulkhead in different places. I didn't look into fitting the more modern heater box within the older dash, but I doubt that would work - very happy to be proved wrong on that one, though!
  11. geoffbeaumont

    Range rover classic side mirrors

    Ah, no amount of knowledge of how it should work is going to help with that 😉 We've all been there, I think - why doesn't this work? 🤔 That'll be because some monkey was loose on the vehicle before you!
  12. geoffbeaumont

    Dremel or similar

    You can get a flexi shaft for a dremel - well worth having if you go down that route, especially for repetitive work. That little drill gets surprisingly heavy after a while... I'd agree with Fridge and Bowie though - the Dremels aren't really made for heavy work. Mine has been great when treated with respect, but it has been back for repair after I used it for a heavier job (to be fair, probably well outside it's design parameters - I made up a little jig for cutting bevels on the edge of plaster and plasterboard after some builders didn't bother doing the wall corners in our hall properly. Messy but effective. Until I burned the bushes out...).
  13. To be fair, it went walkabouts from XKCD in the first place...
  14. geoffbeaumont

    High SWR reading on CB

    Wandering mildly off topic (probably) - if a bare metal connection is important for the aerial mount, how does that work with magnetic mounts, which usually have a plastic pad under them?
  15. geoffbeaumont

    ZF Auto at jaunty angle ?

    Except that presumably they'd have needed a different casting at the back and different mounting brackets from those in the V8 if they hadn't tilted the gearbox in the diesel...

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