alanius

a few steps forward (I guess), marked the pulley with 0° and 10° before TDC (thanks Bowie69 for the info). Then I made a lip to mount on the engine as a fixed reference point. When 1st cilinder was at TDC I alligned the lip with the 0°, hope this is correct? Then I put in the ignition advance main table 10 and 'burnt' in the ecu (don't know anymore how he asked this exactly) wired the stroboscope lamp and putted it on 10°, started the engine but just the 0° mark was almost correct, so I turned on the stroboscope lamp to 7° and then the 0° mark on the pulley alligned with the fixed point. When I've put the stroboscope lamp on 0°, the fixed lip almost alligned with the 10° before TDC on the pulley, guess here is also a difference of 3° (if it was possible to have -3° on my stroboscope lamp it would allign on the 10° mark) so stuck again, what do I have to do now? change the value in the 'trim angle'? If so what do I use -3 of...or did I something completly wrong in the steps before? thank you for the information!!

Just took a pulley from a 3.5 and saw that the 0degree is on the same place as the woodruff key. Is that always? As i just saw on my 4.0 pulley that there is also a white line on that position? Or isn't that a good methode for reference? I didn't tune anything so far. First wanted to check this first before I did anything else. Do you also know how I have to work with the tables to check the timing?

I changed the values in the ignition advanced table to 10 (a lot of work to do). But what do I have to next, keep the table open or burn in into the ecu or...? Th spark settings table I also found and know that I only have to adjust the trim as the stroboscoop doesn't match with the 10degree. Connected the stroboscoop lamp to the first cilinder, but I have no marks on my trigger wheel. What do I use as reference to see if it is 10degree or not? Trigger wheel is from a 4.0 V8. When I've completed that is the old spark table still in the ecu or not? If I just put all the values back in the table? Does it matter that this is from a 4.2 and not a 3.9? How can I increase the tick over? Rpm as it is a bit low. Engine stalls most of th times. EDIT: Think I just found the answer for this; wil be solved when I start datalogging and tune the VE table. Correct? A lot of questions but it is still a bit of chinees for me :-(

I wanted to set the timing correct today. But when I actually had to do it I didn't understand it at al :-s Need some more explanation step by step how I have to do that or where I can find this? Also I have a 4.0 trigger wheel so no marks at all.

Nigel I know you don't like the THOR mannifold but I had everything allready (for a few years). also I got limited space in our light weight and if I remember it correct the thor is lower then the gems. we don't intend to race with this, just have fun and drive off-road, we also have a 3speed auto box in it so on normal road he isn't the fastest (before with the 3.5V8). The power was with the 3.5 was good enough, we just changed the engine (eventually) because we liked the megasquirt system and to gain a bit more power at lower rpm. If we don't like the thor we can still change (hope I don't have to do it) to a gems intake Elbekko, thanks for the information, can I set the fuel regulator correct.

I've found on a website 3.5Bar or 50Psi, could this be correct?

ok will try to find the correct value. didn't found the 'Nigel's tuning thread' after reading it a couple of times I think I understand it. thnak you!

I didn't changed any thing, just used the program that Nigel supplied me with the kit (allready 4 - 5 years ago). That the fuel pressure was not controlled by the ECU I thought also, there isn't a fuel pressure sensor. But after changing the 2 wires from the VR sensor the engine started without any problem and the RPM gauge worked fine now. SO now I need to set the fuel pressur correct, how much is the best to use, 4bar? What do I need to do after I've set the timing correct (like you mentioned) to suit the mapping to my engine? Read allready a lot of threads but can't find a nice step for step methode to do this :-s Thanks in advance! Regards Alain

now it runs, I want to 'tune' the engine correct. I have a 4.2 map but the engine is a 3.9V8 with thor mannifold with the green injectors. Can I use that map to change - suit to the engine? Does anyone know how much pressure the injectors need (4Bar?)? As I have an external fuel pressure regulator, so have to adjust this to a correct value. The timing I have to set according these methode (thank you Fridge Freezer): Do this: Then do this: So that your timing light shows 10deg advance (BTDC), so then you know that the number in "Ignition Advance Table" will be the real timing value you see on the engine. If I've done that what is the next thing to do? many thanks!!

Nigel = hero! Switched the wires and he makes music!!!! I'm a very happy person :-D

how can the ECU know the fuel pressure? got an external fuel pump + regulator. As I have a thor mannifold and all is in our light weight

when I crank it's 137RPM. But then it suddenly is back 0. When I crank again, sometimes the fuel pump pumps again and then it goes to max rpm, 7900 region. When the fuel pump stops again it is back 0. Does this mean that I need to change the wires from the VR sensor? I know when the fuelpump stops it is actually the fuel pump solenoid that is not activated. So all that is powered by the white-purple wire doens't have 12V anymore (coils packs, lambda and fuel pump)

Can I connect this also to ground instead of the Ecu?

Hello, My 3.9V8 is megasquirted and now I want to start it (finally). Of course he doens't want to start, typical! THe strange part is that my fuel pump pumps a few seconds and then it stops, I measered and saw that it doesn't has 12V. So if my fuel pump doesn't has 12V the coils also don't have 12V => result no spark and no fuel. First question is this normal (guess not)? And what can cause this problem. THe solenoid for the fuelpump is good (changed allready and still the same problem). The only wire (blue-pink) that can cause this problem goes to the ECU (pin 37) as this is attached to the solenoid pin 85. Does anyone know what to check or try as I don't know what to do at this point? The main solenoid works perfect, EDIS module has 12V ANy other info - tips - tricks are welcome!!! May thanks Regards Alain

But how do you know the valves will be closed? Thank you Nigel for this picture, needed this to set up the trigger wheel! As I find time to continue on the build of my engine :-(

Hi, That was what I mean, put the coolers between the radiator and oil pump. So the coolers have the coldest water. The radiator is big enough, will post a pic later, and it works with 2 fans that are controlled by 2 thermostat switches. The temp is completly under control, we had only 1 time some problems, but it was 35°C outside and the engine + radiator was full of mud. The problem is we don't have enough space to put a good size oil radiator (air cooled) as the engine bay is small. this is my light weight, as I don't understand what you mean with try to fit them in the inner wing.

Hi, We're upgrading our Light weight to a 4.0V8. Now we need to put an oil cooler on the engine + we have an oil cooler for the auto gearbox. A lot of radiators and not much space. What kind of oil coolers can I use for the engine oil and for the auto gearbox (3speed torqueflight)? And are easy to clean, without destroying the net. I found allready a 'laminova' oil cooler. But how does it works, can I put it straight on the water circuit or.... ? If I use a Laminova oil cooler (oil to water), what dimensions can you recommend? I want to place the oil coolers behind the radiator, as I don't have any other space. And there are electric fans on the radiator so when there on the air flow cools the oil radiators. Thanks for your help! Regards alain

problem solved, thanks Nigel!

I have the same problem on my 4.6 V8, how to put the trigger wheel on the crankshaft poulie. If I understand it correct, you machien the back of the poulie? So it is flat and then bolt the trigger wheel to the poulie? (any pictures)

Hope this it the right place to put my questions. Here we go: I've a 3.9 V8 engine block that is completly rebuild with top hat liners, block is as new. It was original a serpentine model from a discovery, but with the oil pump driven by the dizzy. Now I'm going to use megasquirt on this engine so I didn't need the dizzy anymore so I've putted the front cover from a 4.6V8 on the engine (smaller, no place anymore for the dizzy). Oil pump is driven by the crankshaft. But I've just saw that I have 2 places where I can put the oil 'intake' pipe (don't know the correct name): - 1 on the engine block (originel 3.9) - 1 on the front cover (from the 4.6) I guess I need to use the one from the 4.6 (front cover) but what I need to do with the original intake from the 3.9. Let it open or block it or... ? who can help me??? many thanks regards Alain

thanks! I know that the chance is big that they have those parts. But want to find something cheaper... If possible

Hello, I'm searching for the following WMIK parts (for the weapon mount) for a friend. Below are the partnumbers from the parts he need: - WX6H/N20115/60 Base Plate and tongue retriever assembly Picture: http://www.thexmod.com/prod_pics_3/8924-1.jpg - WX6H/N20115/50 Receiver, G3 cone, CPM, assembly Sorry no picture. If you know where I can find this please let me know. Also if you have wolf 90 parts, please pm me. Many thanks Regard Alain

I've bought a set of second hand rear half shafts from a 90 V8 with drumbreaks (used in '86 - '88). Now I toke the drive flanges of and saw the letters HD stamped in the half shafts. Both half shafts have them on the same place. Could it be that those are Heavy Duty half shafts from 'a company' (if so which?) or are those genuine Land Rover half shafts. I've never saw this so who can help me :-D Thanks!