optixelectrics

Hi, Even with all the hoses to the turbo taken off, it still makes the noise. It isn't using anymore oil than usual. It spins freely by hand. I dont know if its worth adding, but there are no silencers on this exhaust. I have a side exit which comes out just in front of the rear wheel. This was made by hacking and welding the standard exhaust system.

I have just checked the hoses, they are all fine. I have found that there is about 2mm of side to side play on the turbine shaft. Am I right in thinking this is knackered?

Hi All, This problem only started last night. My 200tdi Disco was running at 0.8bar boost. it now struggles to reach 0.5bar, and has no boost below 1800rpm. It also now sounds like it has a supercharger whine. Any ideas? Thanks

Thanks for all the replies. I ended up getting the KL71s on ebay, but as a 245/75/16 (barely used with steel modulars for £350!!). I have fitted extended bumpstops (+30mm) and done the camel cut. It now doesn't rub at all. The acceleration is slightly slower, but it looks so much better with proper size tyres. It looks like I wont have to go for a 2" lift, which suits me, as the breakover angle is now slightly better than it was, and the diffs are another inch or so off the ground.

Hi All, I now have the puzzle of which to go for.... I have a 200tdi disco with winch and does quite a bit of towing. I have been told that I need to lift it 50mm (2") for the tyres that I want to fit (KL71 265/75/16's). The question is how to do this, do I; A) Lift the entire body 50mm with the spacer packs B) put the 50mm spacers in the suspension (cheapest option) C) put in shocks and HD springs with a +50mm (most expensive option) It is used mostly on road to get to sites, where I then have to drive cross country to install micro wind turbines in remote locations (hence the tyres and the winch). Thanks.

Thanks for the quick reply. I have got the new UJ's, which I will put in before I fit the prop. I also need to replace a couple of bolts on the transfer box flange. Do these come out with the flange fitted, or do I need to take that off (and if so, how?). Thanks

Hi All, I managed to break the front prop, through severe wear and not realising what was causing the vibration. the transfer box end UJ is completely knackered, to the point it has worn through the bearing caps and then into the prop itself (and some of the bolts etc etc). I have ordered a used prop from fleabay, and I have the new replacement UJ's. I have heard it mentioned somewhere about the 45 degree offset. Does it matter when this is bolted back to the 4 bolt flanges, or does the 45 degree offset only matter if I split the prop in half? I dont want to do it wrong, as I have read about vibration at 60mph, and this would only start off more problems with something else. Thanks,

Did you get these springs in the end? are they any good?

What about some grabber AT2's? I have them on my Disco S1, and find them fairy sticky on road, and not too sad off road either. They are probably as off road as I could get away with, without losing the on road drivability. I got a set of 4 off fleabay for £320 delivered.

Hi, I am looking to get a front winch and bumper for my disco 1 (2ootdi). I have been advised to go for a Warn winch, but I dont currently have a full bucket of pound coins to get one with. On fleabay they are listing the bumper and winch for just over £500. It is a britpart 9500i. Is this any good?, or should I continue filling my bucket with pound coins...... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Winch-bumper-kit-Discovery-1-Range-rover-classic-/220581207766?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item335baa1ed6

Gripper, Thanks for the info, I didn't realise that I didn't have a doughnut on it, but then I haven't been underneath it for a proper look yet. Is the doughnut the only issue with the 2" lift kits?

so the answer to this is to buy only genuine land rover doughnuts..... and it doesn't seem to matter if its lifted or not????? I still would rather have the 2" lift, but the reliability is my only concern. Has anyone got a 2" setup that hasn't fallen apart after 5 minutes?

What kit was that? after reading the bit from Ian about the donuts, I cant afford to keep having it off the road to change them on a regular basis. My disco has done 144000, so is definitely due some suspension repairs....

Ian, thanks for the quick reply. I am seriously tempted to go for the 2" lift, but the roll bar was my main concern. With the kit you fitted, and the A-R Bar still on, did you get the full 2" lift?

I have a twin tank set up on my 200TDi. It is on 2x 3 port tecalmit valves, as the pollak valves proved unreliable. I have an 85 litre clear tank behind the load cage (£75 delivered from ebay), just behind the drivers seat (my TDi is 3 door commercial). The WVO fuel filter is heated by the coolant. I cannibalised an old commercial fridge for the 12V temperature display with relay stage. This is set to automatically change to veg at 65C, by sending power to the tecalmit valves. I also put a float switch in the veg tank, so that it doesn't suck air when it has nearly run out. This also cuts the power to the valves and puts it back on to diesel. The mechanical lift pump has been removed. The diesel tank is on the original filter and then goes into the 3 port valve. From the 3 port it goes through a 12V fuel pump (facet posiflow 60104), then into the bosch injector pump. The veg goes through the heated filter, then into the 3 port, then the same route as the diesel. Don't bother with the glow plug heaters. They are completely useless, as although they do get the oil to the required temperature at start up, the engine is still stone cold. The end result (as I found out), is the veg doesn't burn properly, sticks to the cylinder walls and then mixes with the engine oil, which makes pretty silicone spray for everything (pistons, crank, etc etc). I cannot stress highly enough the importance of making sure that the engine is up to temperature before changing over to oil. Also, remember to change back to diesel to purge the fuel lines 5 minutes before you switch off. 3000 miles between engine oil changes - MAXIMUM!!! it will save a lot of heartache......

Hi All. Does anyone know what the distance is supposed to be between the top of the tyre (235/75/16) and the bottom of the arch on a 200TDi Disco S1. Some of the other Discos at the off-road courses have 2" lift kits on them and seem to be much higher than just 2" when compared to mine. I doubt it has been touched since new (1993). I cant go for the 2" lift, as I spend most of my life at 65-70mph and don't want to remove the anti roll bar to get the added lift (and then be limited by wandering steering to 50mph.....). I am looking at fitting the ARB diff locker for the rear diff as well, but need to get the ground clearance sorted first. Thanks.

Is the ABS light on all the time? It should come on when the engine is first started, and then go out a few seconds after. Faults can be anything from tyre sizes not being identical, to knackered brake pedal switches (a favourite on MG rovers....). The electrical pick ups on each encoder ring on the hub, may have a bad connection. If it has been modded and off roaded, then the connections could just be full of water and subsequently corroded. I dont know if the resistance method will work for checking the pick ups. Normally they are 'hall effect', so may have 3 wires (positive, negative and the pulse output). If the ABS light goes off at first, and then comes back on once you are over 5mph, then the pick ups are the first thing to check.

I have chassis number ******KA060036. I want to put on an ARB air diff locker for the rear axle, but dont know if I have a 10 or 24 spline axle. It is all original. I have seen a RD127 ARB unit on ebay (£495 new). Is this what I need? Thanks, Myk I have just realised this post is in the wrong area.... Admin can you move it to Discovery 1 please?!

Thank you Les. I will get a couple of spares ordered now. Cheers, Myk

I have a 17 year old Disco, and the chassis is still sweet on that. Mind you, I have just welded the sills and boot floor to get it through the MOT. If you get it undersealed then it should last 5 years. Waxing will last about 5 minutes, especially if you use it for off-road and jet wash it after.

Hi Everyone, My Disco failed the mot on excessive play on the front nearside wheel bearing. It gave up completely on my way home from the MOT centre and tried to spit me in to the kerb! When I took it apart, the front bearing was still in fairly good condition, but the rear bearing fell out in little bits all over the drive. I had to cut the old bearing shell from the stub axle carrier, as it wouldn't budge. I have now got it replaced and refitted, but suspect the next time it goes it will need a new stub axle carrier. Have you got a part number please. It is KA on the chassis number on a 1993 S1 Disco 200TDi. All the bearings are the same. Does this apply to the front and rear stub axle carriers as well? Thanks

Hi All, I am looking to extend the breathers on my 200TDI and wondered if I could drill the airbox and run the extended 6mm pipes from the axles, gearbox and transfer box into that (obviously with the dowty seals, etc to keep it air/water tight). Then I could just add the snorkel at a later date. Cheers!!

Hi All, I had to remove the old bolt, as the retractable step didn't retract anymore. It was an agro job, and resulted in the bolt getting cut to remove it. I went to my local fixings supplier, and they have identified the thread as 1.25 pitch, and we thought M10 (x110mm), but it is too loose. Has anyone got any ideas what this bolt size is? is there such a thing as an M11 bolt, as an M12 is too big and M10 just too small. It is the bolt that connects to the piece of angled steel (captive thread) which then holds the bottom part of the tow ball plate. Thanks in advance. Myk