Cynic-al
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Posts posted by Cynic-al
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A half way perhaps?
When I ordered my Amarok there were 2 options, one was a £400 electric water heater which heats the engine water whenever it drops below a certain temperature, the other was a £1400 diesel heater. I didn't pick either as I'm tight, my friend has the £400 version and I so regret it after comparing his to mine!
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16 hours ago, Ed Poore said:
Equally I think it was Si that mentioned the more modern Land Rovers have torque sensing diffs in them which means that broken half shafts are a thing of the past because it'll kill the power to the engine / wheel in order to save it.
Which is why they don't want to allow it to be controlled manually
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28 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Perhaps it just shows that the average punter can't be trusted to have things like difflock buttons as they'll just drive around on tarmac with difflock engaged and then file a warranty claim when something breaks... same reason modern cars limit engine power in certain gears to save the gearbox or go into limp mode when overheated... maybe annoying to some but I'll bet in the big scheme of things it saves an absolute ton of warranty claims.
My amarok is torque limited in reverse, you have to rev the nuts off it when reversing a trailer uphill. In countries with sand dunes people code it out but you know, warranty 🙈
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I think you also have to consider that not all on road driving is the same. At work we have a Jimny and for buzzing around the local area and popping into the village it can't be beaten for fun and ease of use. Do a 1,000 mile stint in a car and you realise the value of a decent seat, sound deadening and a drivetrain that you don't have to work constantly for every bump, hill or corner. You want to be distanced from the road.
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I like low range no diff lock for manouvering trailers etc.
My experience of traction control is that it does make the vehicle capable of doing things vehicles without cannot without being modified, so for a road biased owner who wants to be able to get around offroad and doesnt want to rip their car to bits it's a good thing. The deadened throttle adjustable ride height, wheel braking systems etc all do a good job of making a vehicle multi purpose for a wide range of users whom might have no interest in the details of offroad driving or the technology. My big issue is that it always feel very reactive. Same as an automatic gearbox. I can predict what's coming and put things in place in advance, it can only do it once your wheel has slipped, you've lost traction and stopped etc. The modes are a bit like putting your gearbox in sport, it keeps the revs higher in anticipation your going to do something. Your making it look for certain things that might happen.
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I feel exactly the same when I drive automatics, just let me have a stick to put it in the gear I want it in, stop making me double guess what your going to do. I'm technology backwards
My amarok has offroad mode on and off, traction control on and off and diff lock on and off. I've learn't you have to have traction control off when you go offroad otherwise it won't turn 🤷♂️
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Well the land rover one I did wasnt extreme but it was well setup to demonstrate the technology on the freelander 2 I was in. The bits that impressed me was a concrete bowl where you could get 2 opposite wheels off the ground with it bouncing from one to the other then pull away using the traction control, the second was a gravel down hill where the left 2 wheels were on rollers and the hill decent still kept the speed of the car the same. Obviously no issue of traction on both and not that replicating of real life but it did leave me feeling impressed with the car.
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On 11/28/2019 at 1:46 PM, Cynic-al said:
Are you running petrol or lpg? Are all 8 injectors working evenly, maybe one bank is putting more fuel in than the other and that's making the mixture jump? I put a plastic cup under each injector to measure what was coming out of each one. You just have be be very careful there are no sparks!
I thank you, phew it's getting mighty close to the end of the year I thought I wasnt going to be right at all this year 🤣
Perhaps a less dangerous way I've tested them before is to push them on the end of a hose pipe, apply 12v and spray them against a bit of wood. You can sort of see the pattern and amount of water coming through and compare them one at a time. You can also see if they leak. I know putting water through them isn't ideal but I figure your not going to set fire to anything and if you get a bit of petrol straight back in what harm is it going to do?
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Mine sunroof once leaked on a fiat bravo I had (brilliant car before you all start). Took me ages to find out what was wrong with it, I tried all sorts of greases and sealing stuff. In the end it turned out there were drain tubes that ran down the a pillars to get rid of the rain water which were blocked by leaves near the skuttle panel. 😣
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57 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I don't think you can blame the factory for this - LR have a full off-road testing course and they've shown more than enough "proper" off-road testing of this and all their other models over the years... I suspect that the journalists just want spectacular footage they think will appeal to the average idiot, and faster = more spectacularer innit?
Also, I have never seen any of the competition outside of J**p doing anywhere near the testing and mud-plugging that LR do with their stuff, certainly not in terms of PR photos/videos.
I mean, this may be small beer to the hairy-chested off-road warriors on here but I don't see any press shots of the BMW X3 or whatever fugly POS Mercedes make in the same slot doing this - and I reckon their management would soil themselves if they thought a customer might actually try it;
My boss has a cayenne and when she bought it they provided an offroad training day to learn how to drive it. Equivalent to land rover experience I guess.
By the way you do know the story of that photo don't you? They were caught in a downpour when testing and the water is what leaked out the door seals 🤣
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The hydraulic plastic moulding machines at work used to do something similar to the ford tank. They called it an accumulator and during the parts of the cycle where the pump was idle, ie when your waiting for the plastic to cool, it would pump oil into the accumulator, then when it came to open the mould and eject the part, which takes a large volume of oil, it would release it. It would mean you'd have enough pressure to do 2 things at once too, like open mould and eject part or operate side moving hydraulic cores at the same time making for a faster cycle. They were a pain as the engineering inspection people considered them a pressure vessel and wanted to inspect them under puwer.
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I suppose there are 2 advantages to the electric super chargers. Firstly they're independent to the engine rpm so you can have any amount of boost at any rpm. So flat out and low revs and completely off at cruising speed so no electrical load which might give better mpg than having a super charger running all the time? Unless the super charger helps with efficiency enough 🤷♂️ Secondly if the car has a smart alternator under hard acceleration it can run the super charger at full boost and disconnect the alternator so all energy from the engine is going to the wheels then turn the alternator back on during cruising to replenish the battery. 🤷♂️
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All types of car & Benz?
50% reduction in emissions? Does that mean I can take a diesel into Bristol with this fitted? Stops scale build up too, like calgon! I must admit that petrol scale has always been a killer.
Wonder if it works on electric cars too?
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I think very few reporters are willing to give negative reviews as they rely on the manufacturers loaning them the vehicles to review. Put too many buyers off and dont get any more cars
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If you think about it the plug in led capacitor will work, I mean it charges the capacitor in normal driving so when you floor it the capacitor will power the throttle body meaning that the alternator doesnt have to do any work until your back in normal driving which reduces load on the engine meaning more power is available to go to the wheels. Bet it saves atleast 20milliwats at that crucial moment
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18 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Not that I might be tinkering with something along these lines
but curious as to what people consider a reasonable price for a trustworthy / quality 52mm battery volts AND amps meter using hall-effect sensor (so no shunts, and capable of measuring 1000A)?
£1.99 but only if it lights up blue!
Logging would be handy if you could easily move it between cables so that you could test a device individually / find a leak / see how hard a fridge is working day and night and so on. Log date & time, voltage and current draw and be unobtrusive enough to be able to leave in place whilst driving around. Maybe a low battery alarm too so you could set it for "your car won't start if you draw any more power" or "your going to kill the battery if you draw any more". Or if you wanted to get really funky a "based on your current consumption your battery will be flat in... hours"
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I wish these review companies would do real life tests just for once, I mean they call it an offroad review but I didn't see it mount a single kerb outside a school in that video.
I'm waiting for the 'Baby Defender', at £25k it'll almost be affordable for me before it's out of warranty
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There was one everyone used to fit near the air filter which made the air more turbulent which they claimed mixed the fuel better and created more power. I never tried one so I can't comment on how many extra BHP you got, but i would imagine on a 1 litre 45bhp corsa you would be north of 200bhp when used in conjunction with a K&N air filter and cherry bomb exhaust.
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I have the gunsons eezibleed too, cheap but always worked so long as you remember not to run out of fluid.
Apart from a kit car I was restoring for a friend. I tried and tried to get the back to bleed and it wouldn't, lots of head scratching and swearing until I realised the builder had put the calipers on upside down to suite the handbrake cable. To get them to bleed I had to take them off, turn them over, wedge a lump of metal between the pads then bleed them
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The Chinese government subsidise exports, $22bn last year. It certainly helps keep the price down whilst keeping the masses busy.
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If she's buying it, I'm buying it!
I get loads of adverts popping up on Facebook with things worth thousands being sold for $100, postage from far away lands. I want to click buy just to see what turns up! The importer is responsible for the quality, safety and performance of the item, if you but direct from abroad you're the importer 🤷♂️
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Never heard anything like that before, sounds to be running quite nice apart from the pop. The mixture seems to jump at the same time and go rich i think looking at the video.
Has it ever run ok or is it a new install. If so did it run ok before the install. IE do you know that the timing and everything is ok on the engine. Some are known for the engine pulley marks to not line up correctly. You need to make sure 0 is actually TDC and the sensor is in the correct place for the EDIS timing. You can physically move the sensor or offset it in the software. For the sake of taking the heads off you can see if TDC is at the right place and if all the valves are opening ok. I didn't find the engine that sensitive to changes in the spark table but worth looking for something stupid.
Also easy to spray a bit of easy start around the engine to check for leaks, it should run faster if some is getting in.
Are you running petrol or lpg? Are all 8 injectors working evenly, maybe one bank is putting more fuel in than the other and that's making the mixture jump? I put a plastic cup under each injector to measure what was coming out of each one. You just have be be very careful there are no sparks!
Are all the plugs proven to be firing and in the right order, I had real problems with plugs on mine, sometimes they would crack the ceramic and it was almost impossible to see it.
I found it easier to blank off the pwm, get it running nicely then put it back in just to help with the cold running. I found trying to tune it with the PWM in to be really hard.
Only other problems I had were with the fuel pump losing pressure as it got hot, there is a manual somewhere on here that tells you what the pressure should be, it's a certain amount over manifold pressure, I fitted an oil pressure gauge to the fuel system to monitor it. I also had a fault with the power supply of the board, that caused the engine to play up I didn't find it until it finally died and I had something to track.
Good luck!
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I daisy chain it either between crimp terminals (I buy the ones that roll around to clamp the cable then heat shrink over them rather than the ones that just crush down onto the cable) or for the carling switches use the socket and daisy chain them but try to cable tie everything into a loom. Taking each lamp cable back to a terminal box individually seems a lot of unnecessary cable to me.
If you do want a busbar type terminal box look at the marine stuff, I find it's more affordable than the industrial stuff but less boy racer than a lot of the automotive stuff.
but curious as to what people consider a reasonable price for a trustworthy / quality 52mm battery volts AND amps meter using hall-effect sensor (so no shunts, and capable of measuring 1000A)?
Dab aerial location
in International Forum
Posted
The best dab aerials I've retrofitted are the ones like the old mobile phone aerials, there is half stuck on the inside and half stuck on the outside of the glass with a short aerial sticking up. They usually need grounding by sticking a tab to the bodywork.
I've never found the ones that just stick on the inside of the glass to be as good.